KISYONGUS Outdoor Faucet Repair Kit, Frost-proof Valve Leak ASSE 1019-A Repair Kit, Anti-Siphon Valve VACVBKX1B Vacuum Breaker Repair Kit, Wall Hydrant Complete Replacement Kit, Hose Faucet Fitting Repair Kit

Why I reached for this kit

My frost‑proof wall hydrant started weeping from the anti‑siphon cap and the handle felt gritty, like the packing was done. Replacing the entire hydrant meant cutting into a finished basement ceiling. Instead, I tried the Kisyongus faucet repair kit to rebuild what I could from the exterior.

What you actually get

This is a compact, catch‑all kit aimed at ASSE 1019‑A style outdoor faucets. Mine came with a vacuum breaker assembly, a replacement handle, and a selection of seals, screws, and small fittings. The parts span metal and elastomer: steel hardware, aluminum alloy handle/bonnet pieces, rubber seals, a coppery insert, and plastic components where venting needs to move freely. Nothing looked premium or boutique, but nothing felt like dollar‑bin pot metal either.

It’s not a brand‑specific rebuild set; it’s a “cover the common wear points” kit. Think vacuum breaker cap and internals, a generic handle, and a handful of O‑rings and washers intended to match the most common frost‑proof anti‑siphon setups.

Installation on faucet #1: straightforward and satisfying

On my newer hydrant (typical big‑box frost‑proof model), the process was fast:

• Shut the water off inside, open the spigot to relieve pressure.
• Remove the old vacuum breaker cap and internals (mine were crusted with mineral deposits and the rubber had split).
• Clean the threads and seat with a nylon brush and a little white vinegar to loosen scale, then rinse and dry.
• Lightly grease the new O‑rings with silicone plumber’s grease.
• Thread on the new vacuum breaker top and drop in the new internals, taking care not to overtighten.
• Swap the handle and secure with the provided screw.

From first wrench to final wipe‑down, I spent under 15 minutes. The leak from the top cap stopped immediately, the handle rotation smoothed out noticeably, and flow returned to normal. A quick check with a spray nozzle confirmed the vacuum breaker vented when the hose was depressurized—a good sign the anti‑siphon function was restored.

Installation on faucet #2: compatibility rears its head

My older hydrant was a different story. The vacuum breaker cap started fine but bound up before it seated. Thread pitch and diameter looked close to identical, but not identical enough. I could have forced it and wrecked the body threads; not worth it. The handle, however, fit and tightened down correctly, so I at least fixed that gritty rotation with a new screw, packing, and a dab of grease.

This sums up the real‑world nature of a “universal” kit: it can be perfect on one hydrant and incompatible on another that appears similar. The standard (ASSE 1019‑A) describes performance, not a single set of mechanical thread dimensions, so bonnets and caps vary by manufacturer.

Performance and sealing

Where it fit, sealing was excellent. The rubber is pliable without feeling mushy, and the O‑rings didn’t nick or twist during assembly. Under household pressure, I saw no seepage at the cap, stem, or hose connection. The vacuum breaker vented and resealed consistently after multiple on/off cycles and hose pressure changes.

If you’re chasing a persistent drip from the top of your hydrant—or you’ve lost backflow protection because the old internals are cracked—this kit addresses the right components. Just remember: it doesn’t fix a leaking stem on the interior cartridge of every hydrant model. If your leak is from the packing under the handle or deep inside the stem, you may need a brand‑specific stem kit; this kit covers the common external wear points and some stem sealing, not complete stem replacement for every design.

Build quality and durability

• Metals: The handle and cap feel like basic aluminum alloy. They’re not tank‑like, but the machining was clean, threads were free of burrs, and the finish resisted minor scratches during install.
• Elastomers: The O‑rings and flat washers have a good durometer—firm enough to hold shape, compliant enough to seal. Time will tell, but they look and feel better than the brittle, chalked originals I pulled.
• Hardware: The screws aren’t butter‑soft, but use a well‑fitting screwdriver and don’t over‑torque; outdoor plumbing sits in a corrosive environment and you want to preserve threads in the faucet body.

I’d call the overall quality “solid mid‑grade.” It’s built for function, not for show, and that’s appropriate for a repair kit.

Frost protection and backflow function

The kit itself doesn’t magically make a non–frost‑proof faucet survive winter; rather, it restores the anti‑siphon and sealing parts that a frost‑proof hydrant relies on. With intact seals and a working vacuum breaker, your hydrant is more likely to operate as designed during cold snaps. Best practice still applies: disconnect hoses before freezing weather, close the interior shutoff, and drain the line.

On backflow, I did a simple sanity check: with a hose end submerged in a bucket and the nozzle closed, I shut off the faucet and watched for water migration. The breaker admitted air instead of pulling water backwards. That’s what you want.

The big caveat: “universal” fit

This kit aims for ASSE 1019‑A style hydrants, but “style” isn’t “identical.” Tolerances and threads vary, and small differences are the difference between a five‑minute fix and a no‑go.

Before you buy or open the package:
- Measure the outside diameter and thread pitch of your vacuum breaker cap or bonnet if you can.
- Note your hydrant’s make/model if it’s stamped on the body.
- Compare the cap height and sealing surface shape; some bonnets are flat‑seat, others are conical or stepped.
- Take a close look at the handle shaft and attachment method (screw size and shape).

If you can match those basics, your odds of success are high. If not, consider a brand‑specific kit.

Tips from the install bench

• Clean first. Mineral scale is the enemy of good seals. A vinegar soak and nylon brush can revive threads and seats without damage.
• Use silicone plumber’s grease sparingly on O‑rings and the stem. Skip petroleum‑based lubricants; they can swell rubber.
• Don’t overtighten the vacuum breaker cap. You’re compressing a seal, not welding metal.
• Test under pressure. Open and close the faucet several times with a hose attached, vary backpressure, and check for weeps around the cap and stem.
• Bring a caliper or thread gauge to the job if you’re working across multiple hydrant brands.

Who it’s for

• Homeowners with a leaking anti‑siphon cap or tired handle on a common frost‑proof hydrant.
• Maintenance folks who want a compact set of the usual suspects to get a faucet back in service quickly.
• Anyone trying to avoid cutting into a wall to replace an entire hydrant, provided the exterior components are the culprit.

Who should look elsewhere: if your hydrant is an older or uncommon model, or your leak is deep in the stem/cartridge, a manufacturer‑specific rebuild kit—or full replacement—will be more predictable.

Value

On the faucet where it fit, this kit saved me time, drywall, and the cost of a new hydrant. On the faucet where it didn’t, I at least salvaged a smoother handle operation, but I still needed a brand‑specific cap. That split experience is the price of a “universal” solution: great value if it matches, wasted effort if it doesn’t.

Recommendation

I recommend the Kisyongus faucet repair kit with an important qualifier: verify compatibility before you commit. If your hydrant’s bonnet threads and seal geometry match what this kit provides, it’s an easy, budget‑friendly way to stop top‑cap leaks, refresh the handle action, and restore anti‑siphon function. The materials are respectable, installation is beginner‑friendly, and performance on a compatible hydrant is exactly what you hope for.

If you can’t confirm the fit—or your faucet is an older, brand‑specific design—skip the guesswork and buy the manufacturer’s rebuild parts. You’ll spend a little more, but you’ll avoid the frustration of near‑fits that don’t seal.