Ezbzyz RK-17MH Repair Kit, Metal Handle, fit for Woodford Model 17 Outdoor Faucets, Wall Hydrant Repair Kit Frost-Proof Design

A weeping frost-free hydrant is one of those small problems that turns into a winter headache fast. I put the RK-17MH kit to work on a tired Woodford Model 17 at my place that was dripping at the spout and seeping around the handle. One afternoon later, the faucet was back to tight, smooth operation without replacing the whole hydrant.

What you’re getting here is a comprehensive rebuild kit. It’s not a random bag of O-rings; it’s a full assortment aimed at the common failure points on a Model 17: stem packing, seat rubber, check valves, and the vacuum breaker internals. The inclusion of a metal handle is a nice touch if your original is cracked or rounded off.

What’s in the box
- Metal handle and handle screw
- Packing nut, EPDM packing, and packing washer
- Seat rubber
- Two check valves
- Set screw
- RK-17VB vacuum breaker float kit (3 pieces)

Everything arrived labeled, and the brass bits have a decent finish. The rubber looks like EPDM, which is the right call for outdoor temperature swings and potable water.

Compatibility and setup
This kit is specifically for Woodford Model 17 hydrants. Before I got started, I confirmed the model number stamped on the faceplate and measured the exposed stem travel to ensure it matched what a 17 expects. If you’re working on a different series (14, 19, etc.), this isn’t the right kit. Also, frost-free hydrants rely on proper pitch and installation; a kit can’t fix a unit that froze and split in the wall.

As for the handle: it’s a standard replacement for the 17, but tolerances on older units can vary. On my hydrant, the new handle slid on and the screw seated, though I did need to chase a little mineral buildup off the stem threads with a wire brush first. If your original handle is in good shape, you can keep using it—the kit doesn’t force you to swap.

Installation experience
I blocked off about an hour and ended up spending closer to 45 minutes with cleanup. My process:

• Shut off the water supply and open the hydrant to relieve pressure.
• Remove the set screw and handle, then back off the packing nut.
• Withdraw the rod and seat assembly from the hydrant body. Mine needed gentle persuasion; mineral scale can make it stubborn. A pair of pliers and a steady pull did it.
• Replace the seat rubber on the end of the rod. The old one was flattened and slightly hardened—no surprise after a few seasons.
• Install the new packing washer and EPDM packing, then thread on the new packing nut.
• Rebuild the vacuum breaker: unscrew the top cap, swap in the new float and seals from the RK-17VB kit, and reassemble. I wiped the seat clean with a Scotch-Brite pad to ensure a good seal.
• Reinsert the rod, snug the packing nut, reattach the handle, and install the set screw with a dab of anti-seize.
• Turn water back on, test for leaks, and adjust packing nut tension until the handle felt smooth but not loose.

Two small tips saved me time: clean the vacuum breaker seat before installing new parts, and use a touch of silicone plumber’s grease on the packing to get a predictable feel when tightening the nut. Also, don’t overtighten the packing nut; that’s a common cause of stiff handles and premature wear.

Performance after the rebuild
The big question: did it fix the leaks? Yes. The drip at the spout stopped immediately with the new seat rubber, and the weep around the handle disappeared once I dialed in packing tension. The rebuilt vacuum breaker no longer misted under high flow, and it sealed reliably upon shutoff.

Operation feels smoother than before, likely because the old packing had compressed and was grabbing the stem. With the new parts in, the handle travels consistently, and the faucet shuts off firmly without needing to crank on it.

Material quality and design
- Brass components feel appropriately dense and machined cleanly. No sandy casting residue or burrs to deal with.
- The rubber parts appear to be EPDM, which handles temperature fluctuations and chlorinated water better than generic rubber.
- The check valves and vacuum breaker bits look like-for-like replacements, with no oddball dimensions that would invite cross-threading or binding.

The published ratings—125 psi and 120°F—are conservative and appropriate for residential outdoor lines. This won’t make a compromised installation freeze-proof by itself, but combined with proper hose removal and a correctly pitched hydrant, it helps reduce the risk of winter damage.

Where it falls short
- Instructions are adequate but thin. If you haven’t rebuilt a frost-free hydrant before, a quick look at a Model 17 parts diagram or a short video will add clarity, especially around vacuum breaker orientation and rod removal.
- Handle fit can be finicky on older stems if there’s corrosion or thread damage. Clean the stem and test-fit the handle before you’re halfway through the rebuild. If your existing handle is fine, I’d keep it as a known fit.
- This kit can cure leaks at the handle, spout, and vacuum breaker, but it won’t solve a split faucet tube or a leak behind the wall. Diagnose first: steady water from the wall or within the siding cavity after shutoff may indicate a bigger replacement job.

Value
Compared to buying individual parts—or worse, replacing the entire hydrant—the RK-17MH kit makes economic sense. I appreciated not having to hunt down the vacuum breaker bits separately, and the inclusion of two check valves covers you whether you’re addressing flow-back issues or just refreshing aging internals. If you only need one or two pieces, you’ll have spares on hand for future maintenance.

Tips for a smooth rebuild
- Confirm the model: look for “17” on the wall flange or body.
- Measure stem travel and overall hydrant length; mismatches can point to previous nonstandard repairs.
- Clean mating surfaces: mineral scale and debris are the enemy of new seals.
- Use silicone plumber’s grease on the packing and O-rings; avoid petroleum grease, which can swell EPDM.
- Snug, don’t crush: over-tightening the packing nut or vacuum breaker cap can distort seals.
- Test under pressure with a hose attached and the faucet both fully open and fully closed to confirm vacuum breaker sealing.

Who it’s for
- Homeowners with a leaky Woodford 17 who are comfortable with basic plumbing tasks.
- Property managers who want a standardized kit on the shelf for seasonal maintenance.
- Anyone hoping to extend the life of a Model 17 without opening a wall or sweating new pipe.

Who it’s not for
- Hydrants that froze and split, or units installed without the proper pitch back toward the house.
- Non-Model 17 hydrants; the parts won’t reliably swap across series.

Longevity
With EPDM packing and a fresh seat rubber, I expect several seasons of leak-free service, assuming the faucet is winterized correctly by disconnecting hoses before freezing weather. The vacuum breaker rebuild should also hold up—debris and scale are more likely to cause issues than the parts themselves. A quick fall check to ensure the hydrant drains and the vacuum breaker seals is good practice.

Bottom line
The RK-17MH kit is a well-rounded, Model 17-specific rebuild set that addresses the most common failure points in one shot. Installation is straightforward if you’ve turned a wrench before, material quality is solid, and the included vacuum breaker kit saves a separate purchase. The instructions could be clearer, and older stems may require extra cleanup for the new handle to fit nicely, but neither is a deal-breaker.

Recommendation
I recommend this kit for anyone looking to revive a leaking Woodford Model 17 without replacing the entire hydrant. It’s comprehensive, the parts fit as intended, and the results are tangible: no drips at the spout, no seepage at the handle, and a properly sealing vacuum breaker. If your unit is cracked or not a Model 17, you’ll need a different solution; otherwise, this is a cost-effective, practical repair that most homeowners can tackle in under an hour.