GS Power 600ft CCA 18 Gauge Wire Automotive, 100ft Spool-6 Colors, 18 AWG 12v, Speaker Electrical Wire Low Voltage Primary for Car Stereo Audio Trailer Harness Hookup Wiring LED Light DIY

Why I keep a six‑color 18 AWG pack on the bench

Color‑coded wire is one of those small luxuries that saves hours of tracing later. The GS Power 18‑gauge CCA six‑pack has become a staple in my shop for exactly that reason: six 100‑foot spools (red, black, blue, yellow, white, green) that cover most 12V and other low‑voltage jobs without hunting for a specific color.

This set is a stranded copper‑clad aluminum (CCA) single‑conductor wire with a flexible PVC jacket rated to 105°C (221°F). It’s meant for 6–80 VDC work—car audio, LED runs, sensors, relay triggers, light trailer harnesses—and it should absolutely not be used for 110/220 VAC household circuits.

Below is how it handled across a mix of projects, what it does well, and where I’d reach for something else.

Build, handling, and day‑to‑day use

• Flexibility: The jacket is supple and easy to route through dashboards, looms, and tight corners. It doesn’t fight bends or try to spring back open, which I appreciate when bundling into tidy harnesses.

• Stripping and terminations: With the right notch on a quality stripper, the insulation cuts cleanly and leaves the strands intact. CCA strands are a little more fragile than pure copper—twist them tightly before inserting into ferrules or crimp barrels. Soldering works fine, but it takes a touch more heat than OFC and benefits from a brief pre‑tin of both the conductor and the component pad/lug.

• Jacket feel: The PVC insulation is on the softer side. It’s pleasant to work with, but it can nick if you drag it over sharp, stamped metal edges. If you’re pulling through a firewall or body panel, use grommets and loom. Heat‑shrink at exit points is cheap insurance.

• Spools and organization: Each color comes on a compact 100‑ft spool. There are no length markings on the jacket, so I keep a simple measuring stick at the bench for repeat cuts. The color set is exactly what I’d choose for automotive and general low‑voltage work (power, ground, sw‑acc, illumination, signal, etc.).

Electrical performance: good for its lane

As CCA, this wire has higher resistance than pure copper. In practical terms, you’ll see a bit more voltage drop over distance. On a 12–15 ft run at around 2 A, I measured roughly 0.3–0.4 V drop—noticeable compared to a similar run in copper, but perfectly acceptable for non‑critical loads like LED strips, sensor lines, and amplifier remotes.

Key takeaways:
- Keep run lengths reasonable for anything drawing more than a couple of amps.
- For steady loads above ~5 A, step up the gauge or choose copper.
- For ultra‑sensitive signals (e.g., some sensors), short runs minimize noise pickup and drop.

If you’re used to copper, think of this 18 AWG CCA behaving more like a “half‑step thinner” conductor for voltage drop purposes. Plan accordingly and you’ll be fine.

Where it shines

• Car audio accessories and remotes: Remote turn‑on, low‑draw relays, illumination feeds, and speaker‑level connections are all fair game. The flexibility makes tidy, squeak‑free looms simple.

• LED lighting and accent work: Interior and cargo LEDs, switch panels, and light pods are easy to power and organize with the color variety. For longer runs to exterior lights, I route through split loom and seal all terminations with adhesive heat‑shrink to keep weather out.

• Gauge clusters and low‑current sensors: The combination of flexibility and color‑coding is ideal when you’re staring down a bundle of 20+ similar wires that must land in specific cavities.

• Prototyping, bench power, and 3D printer tinkering: It’s inexpensive, takes solder well with a bit more heat, and the spools make for neat storage.

Where I’d choose something else

• Harsh environments: Under‑vehicle runs, salt exposure, engine bays, or anywhere moisture and heat combine. CCA is more susceptible to corrosion than tinned copper, and the PVC jacket, while 105°C rated, isn’t meant for the hotter parts of an engine compartment. For these areas, I prefer marine‑grade, tinned OFC with higher‑temp insulation.

• High‑current circuits: Fuel pumps, cooling fans, heating elements, winches—these are not 18 AWG CCA jobs. Use heavier pure copper (and properly fused circuits) for anything that can spike above a few amps.

• Critical reliability: If a failure means a tow or a safety concern, I default to copper, sealed connectors, and adhesive‑lined heat‑shrink—even if that means spending more.

Installation notes and best practices

• Crimping vs. soldering: Quality crimp connectors work well if you size them carefully. CCA strands are slightly more brittle; use a double‑crimp (insulation and conductor) and finish with adhesive‑lined heat‑shrink to relieve strain. For solder joints, pre‑tin, use a touch of flux, and avoid wicking solder too far up the conductor, which can create a stiff section prone to fatigue.

• Abrasion protection: The softer insulation appreciates protection. Run it inside split loom or braided sleeve, and always use grommets through metal.

• Labeling: Even with six colors, label both ends. Heat‑shrink labels or a simple wrap of tape with legible writing saves time later.

• Fusing: Treat this like any other automotive primary wire—fuse as close to the source as practical, sized for the conductor and load.

Heat and temperature headroom

The 105°C jacket rating is standard for automotive primary wire and appropriate for interior routing, trunks, and protected exterior paths. If your route necessarily skirts heat sources—headlight buckets, radiators, engine‑bay panels—add stand‑offs, choose a higher‑temp wire, or reroute. I’ve had no jacket softening or deformation at typical cabin and under‑dash temps.

Durability over time

Inside the cabin and protected looms, I haven’t had issues with oxidation or intermittent connections. The key is sealing. Any time CCA is exposed to moisture, especially with dissimilar metals in a connector, you increase the chance of corrosion. Weather‑pack or Deutsch‑style connectors and adhesive‑lined heat‑shrink go a long way. If I know a connection will live outside the vehicle or in a damp location, I reach for tinned copper instead.

Value and who it’s for

You get 600 feet of wire across six practical colors at a price that makes experimentation and small mistakes painless. For hobbyists, installers, and anyone who builds or repairs low‑voltage harnesses regularly, the convenience is real: pick the right color, cut, terminate, move on. If you only need a few feet of one color for a one‑off job, buying bulk may be overkill; but once you start wiring projects beyond a single circuit, this pack earns its keep.

Small misses

• No footage markings on the jacket. Not a deal breaker, but it’s helpful for longer runs.
• The insulation’s softness, while nice to handle, does call for more care during pulls across rough steel. Loom and grommets solve that.

The bottom line

The GS Power 18‑gauge CCA six‑color wire pack is a practical, budget‑friendly choice for low‑voltage automotive and DIY work where runs are modest, currents are low, and the environment is reasonably protected. It handles easily, strips cleanly, and the color assortment speeds troubleshooting and future changes. It’s not a replacement for marine‑grade, high‑temperature, or high‑current wire, and it shouldn’t be used where long‑term exposure to moisture or salt is likely without proper sealing and protection.

Recommendation: I recommend this set for interior automotive wiring, car audio accessories, LED lighting, gauge clusters, light trailer signal lines, and general 12V bench projects—any scenario where flexibility, clear color coding, and cost efficiency matter more than maximum conductivity or extreme environmental durability. If your project demands high current, lives under the vehicle or under the hood, or absolutely cannot tolerate a failure, spend up for tinned, pure copper wire in the appropriate gauge and insulation. For everything else, this six‑pack is an easy yes.