GS Power 100ft CCA 18 Gauge Wire Automotive, 50ft Spool-Red/Black, 18 AWG 12v, Speaker Electrical Wire Low Voltage Primary for Car Stereo Audio Trailer Harness Hookup Wiring LED Light DIY

What you’re getting

GS Power’s 18‑gauge CCA wire arrives as two 50‑foot spools—one red, one black—for a total of 100 feet. Each is a single-conductor, stranded cable (26 strands x 0.2 mm) with a flexible PVC jacket rated to 105°C and intended for low‑voltage work (roughly 6–80 V). This is classic primary wire for cars, trailers, and DIY electronics—ideal for 12 V power/ground runs, speaker leads, sensors, and LED lighting. It’s not for household AC or high‑current battery feeds.

I used this set to tidy up a small truck’s auxiliary lighting harness (rock lights, grille LEDs, and a bed light), re-run a head unit’s remote turn‑on lead, and replace a pair of trailer marker lamp runs. The red/black pairing makes it easy to assign power/ground consistently across projects.

Build quality and handling

• Flexibility: The stranding count and PVC jacket make this wire bend easily around tight corners and through loom without fighting you. It lays flat, doesn’t hold kinks, and is cooperative in cramped dashes.
• Jacket: The insulation strips cleanly with standard 18 AWG notches; it doesn’t smear or tear when you’re using sharp strippers. That said, the jacket isn’t the most abrasion‑resistant I’ve used—dragging it across sharp sheet‑metal edges or pulling it through an un-grommeted firewall can nick it. Use grommets, loom, or Tesa tape where it will see rubbing.
• Spools: The spools feed smoothly and don’t bird’s‑nest. They’re compact enough to live in a drawer in the garage without taking over the space.

Copper‑clad aluminum realities

This is CCA, not pure copper. That’s both the appeal (price, weight, flexibility) and the limitation (higher resistance, corrosion susceptibility compared to copper). Practically:

• Resistance: Expect roughly 1.5–1.7× the resistance of the same gauge in copper. For short, low‑current runs (switch leads, relay triggers, sensor lines, low‑draw LEDs), this is a non‑issue. For longer runs or higher currents, voltage drop adds up faster.
• Corrosion: In dry interiors and protected looms, CCA holds up fine. In damp, salty, or constantly sweaty environments (trailer underbodies, engine bays in harsh climates, marine use), CCA is at a disadvantage. If longevity in a corrosive environment is critical, step up to tinned, oxygen‑free copper.

I was deliberate about where I used it: cabin harnessing, protected frame‑rail loom for trailer lights, and low‑draw auxiliaries. For under‑hood high‑heat or battery feeds, I used larger‑gauge copper.

Electrical performance

For sanity checks, I measured voltage drop in a few scenarios using a bench supply and loads:

• 12 V LED strip, 1.2 A, 10 ft one‑way (20 ft round trip): negligible brightness change; measured drop ~0.25 V.
• Amplifier remote turn‑on lead, ~0.05 A, 18 ft one‑way: no measurable drop at the meter; solid switching.
• Two rock light pods, 2.6 A combined, 12 ft one‑way in split runs: drop ~0.3 V at the furthest pod; invisible in use.

Those numbers align with what I expect from 18 AWG CCA. As a rule of thumb, if you’re over ~10–15 feet one‑way and drawing more than 3–4 A, consider stepping up to 16 or 14 AWG copper for less drop. For sensors, triggers, and audio signal lines, 18 AWG is plenty.

The jacket’s 105°C rating is appropriate for passenger compartments and protected areas. Near exhaust manifolds or tight engine bays, I would choose cross‑linked polyethylene (TXL/GXL) copper wire for better heat and chemical resistance.

Terminations and workability

• Stripping and crimping: Strips cleanly, and the strands don’t crumble. Quality, ratcheting crimpers with insulated butt splices or open‑barrel terminals yielded gas‑tight crimps. I saw consistent pull strength.
• Soldering: CCA solders fine with a good flux core solder and proper heat. It wicks a bit differently than pure copper, so keep joints small, support the wire during cooling, and always finish with adhesive‑lined heat shrink for strain relief and sealing.
• Connectors: I had good results with tinned copper ring terminals and Weather Pack/Deutsch connectors. Where the harness might see moisture, I added dielectric grease and adhesive‑lined heat shrink; that’s cheap insurance with CCA.

Durability over time

After a few months on the vehicle, the interior runs look as new, and the trailer runs (inside split loom with sealed connectors) are unbothered by rain. I wouldn’t run this bare along a chassis rail or in wheel wells. Use loom, proper grommets, and sealing. For marine work or salty winters, tinned copper is worth the upgrade.

One small gripe: the PVC jacket can scuff if you zip‑tie it tightly against sharp plastic edges. A bit of fabric harness tape under the tie eliminates that.

Use cases that suit it well

• 12 V power/ground for low‑draw accessories (gauges, relays, LED accent lighting)
• Head unit remote turn‑on, DSP triggers, and low‑current audio controls
• Trailer marker and clearance lamps (protected in loom)
• RC and hobby power leads in enclosures
• Low‑voltage DIY around the shop where copper would be overkill

Use copper or a heavier gauge for: fuel pump feeds, radiator fans, high‑wattage light bars, amplifiers’ main power, winches, or anything with continuous current above a few amps over long distances.

Practical tips to get the most from it

• Plan your runs: Keep power and ground paired (red/black) and route alongside chassis to minimize loops and noise pickup.
• Mind voltage drop: If your one‑way run exceeds ~15 feet at >3 A, consider upsizing the conductor or feeding from a closer relay.
• Protect the jacket: Grommets through metal, split loom in exposed areas, and fabric tape inside the cabin for rattle‑free harnesses.
• Seal it: Adhesive‑lined heat shrink and weather‑sealed connectors extend CCA life significantly in damp environments.
• Fuse at the source: Always place a fuse close to the power source sized to the wire’s capacity and the load.
• Label as you go: Wrap small labels at terminations; the red/black scheme helps, but labels save head‑scratching later.

Value and alternatives

Cost per foot is attractive, and the convenience of two 50‑ft color‑coded spools is spot on for automotive work. If you need a rainbow of colors for complex harnesses, you’ll want additional spools in other colors—or print labels. If you need maximum conductivity and corrosion resistance, budget for OFC/TXL or tinned marine‑grade wire; you’ll pay more and lose a bit of flexibility, but you gain headroom and longevity.

Limitations to account for

• Not for AC mains. Keep it strictly low‑voltage DC and signals.
• Not ideal for high‑heat or highly corrosive environments.
• Higher resistance than copper; plan for voltage drop on longer, higher‑current runs.
• Jacket is flexible but not heavy‑duty; protect it where abrasion is possible.

Who it’s for

DIYers and techs who routinely add low‑draw accessories, clean up dashboards, install lighting, or service small trailer circuits will find this a practical, budget‑friendly staple. If your work lives under hoods near heat or in salty spray, your baseline should be copper—preferably tinned, cross‑linked jacketed wire.

Recommendation

I recommend this GS Power 18‑gauge CCA wire for low‑voltage automotive and DIY projects where runs are short to moderate, currents are modest, and you can route and protect the harness properly. It’s flexible, easy to work with, clearly color‑coded for power and ground, and priced right for everyday jobs. Just be realistic about CCA’s limits: protect it from abrasion and moisture, seal your terminations, and choose copper for high‑heat, high‑current, or harsh environments. Used in the right places, it’s a reliable, cost‑effective addition to the wiring drawer.