GEARit 14 Gauge Wire (100ft Each - Black/Red) Copper Clad Aluminum CCA - Primary Automotive Power/Ground for Battery Cable, Car Audio, Trailer Harness, Electrical - 200 Feet Total 14ga AWG Wire

What I used it for

I picked up the GEARit 14‑gauge CCA wire set to handle a few 12V projects: adding fog lights to an older SUV, tidying up an auxiliary fuse block in the cargo area, and extending a trailer light harness. The bundle includes two 100‑foot coils—one red, one black—which immediately simplifies polarity management across multiple installs. Over a month of use, it’s been in and out of split loom, snaked through tight grommets, and routed around metal brackets and plastic panels. Here’s how it behaved, what it does well, and where I’d choose something else.

Build and handling

The jacket is the first thing I noticed. GEARit calls it a “soft touch” PVC, and it does have that pliable, slightly rubbery feel that’s nice when you’re working in cold garages or around tight radii. It strips cleanly with a standard 14 AWG notch and doesn’t leave stringy PVC residue on the blades. The stranding inside is fine enough to make the wire supple; it doesn’t have the springy “memory” some budget cables do, so it lays where you put it and feeds through loom without fighting you.

Color coding is straightforward—deep red and black that remain visible even after a pass through dusty body cavities. The jacket held up to gentle abrasion during fishing and didn’t nick easily against grommet edges. For underhood work near heat sources, I still used high‑temp loom or heat sleeving where appropriate; while the jacket is durable, it’s still PVC, not cross‑linked polyethylene or silicone, so I treated it accordingly.

Electrical performance and what CCA means

This is copper‑clad aluminum (CCA) wire. That’s the main trade‑off you should evaluate. CCA is lighter and cheaper than oxygen‑free copper (OFC), but it has higher resistance. In practice, that means more voltage drop for a given length and current. With 14 AWG, plan conservatively for low to moderate currents and keep runs short if you want to maintain tight voltage‑drop budgets, especially on 12V systems where every tenth of a volt can matter for LEDs and accessories.

In my use, the wire performed exactly as expected for CCA:

• Fog lights on a 10A fused circuit, run length of roughly 6–7 feet one‑way: no perceptible dimming, switches stayed cool, and voltage at the lamps was healthy.
• A small cargo‑area accessory panel feeding USB chargers and a compressor trigger: fine, because each branch is low current and runs are very short.
• Trailer lighting extension: acceptable for signal/brake lights, but I wouldn’t use 14 AWG CCA for high‑duty loads or long trailer runs without stepping up in gauge or moving to OFC.

If you’re new to CCA, here’s the simple rule: for the same gauge, CCA has more resistance than copper. To get similar voltage drop performance, you either shorten the run, lower the current, or go up a size (e.g., use 12 AWG) or choose OFC.

Where it shines

• General 12V accessory wiring: relays, switches, LED light bars, dash cams, backup cameras, small inverters (low current), and the control side of higher‑power systems.
• Car audio low‑to‑moderate current runs: accessory feeds, remote turn‑on, speaker runs where 14 AWG is appropriate.
• Trailer and vehicle lighting circuits: turn signals, markers, and brake lights, as long as runs are not excessively long.
• Bench projects and hobby robotics: the jacket’s pliability and consistent strip make it easy to work with in project boxes.

The twin‑pack format is genuinely useful. Having dedicated red and black on hand cuts down on tape and label clutter and speeds up troubleshooting later.

Where I wouldn’t use it

• High‑current power delivery: winches, large amplifiers, air compressors pulling significant current, or any continuous load north of 10–15A over more than a few feet. For those, step up in gauge and/or move to OFC.
• Long‑run, low‑voltage critical lines: if you’re trying to keep voltage drop under 3% over long distances (e.g., camper builds), choose copper in a heavier gauge.
• Marine environments and harsh outdoor exposure: this isn’t tinned marine wire, and the jacket isn’t advertised as UV‑resistant or direct‑burial. Use marine‑grade, tinned copper with appropriate ratings if that’s your application.

Installation notes from the field

A few practical tips based on my installs:

• Crimping: Use quality, full‑cycle ratcheting crimpers and terminals that match 14 AWG. CCA strands crimp fine, but weak crimp tools will give you inconsistent results. I follow crimping with adhesive‑lined heat shrink for strain relief and moisture resistance.
• Connectors: Ferrules are great when landing in set‑screw blocks or relay sockets; they prevent strand splay and improve contact.
• Protection: Add a fuse as close to the power source as possible (within 7–12 inches). The wire is rated for systems up to 80V, but overcurrent protection is about heat, not just voltage.
• Routing: Keep it off hot components and away from sharp edges; add loom in engine bays and use grommets where passing through metal.
• Labeling: Even with red/black, label both ends. It saves time when you’ve got multiple parallel runs.

Fit, finish, and durability

The jacket consistency is good; it doesn’t vary in thickness along the run, which matters for reliable stripping and crimping. After a few weeks of daily driving, including rain and temperature swings, there’s no sign of jacket hardening or cracking. The wire takes zip ties and P‑clips well without cutting in. I would not call the jacket “outdoor‑rated” though, so for exposed exterior runs I used conduit or loom and sealed entry points with grommets and sealant.

CCA vs. OFC: making the right choice

If your project is budget‑conscious and falls in the low‑to‑moderate current range with short runs, CCA is perfectly serviceable, and this set gets the job done cleanly. If you’re borderline on any two of these—higher current, longer run, or critical voltage—go copper. In many 12V systems, stepping from 14 AWG CCA to 12 AWG OFC is the difference between “works most of the time” and “works flawlessly with margin.”

A practical rule of thumb I use:

• Up to about 5–8A over short runs (under ~10–12 feet one‑way): 14 AWG CCA is fine.
• Around 10–15A or runs beyond ~10 feet one‑way: move to 12 AWG, ideally OFC.
• Anything mission‑critical or continuous‑duty near the limits: OFC, sized by a voltage drop calculator.

Value and availability

The standout here is value. Two 100‑foot coils at this price point is hard to argue with for general‑purpose wiring. Keeping a roll of each color in the shop reduces the temptation to “make do” with the wrong gauge or a random scrap of wire, which is often where reliability problems begin.

Alternatives to consider

• OFC 14 AWG for similar projects when you want more headroom without increasing diameter.
• 12 AWG OFC or 10 AWG OFC for higher‑current accessories or longer runs.
• Marine‑grade tinned copper for boats, off‑road rigs that see frequent water crossings, or any environment where corrosion resistance is paramount.

Pros and cons

Pros
- Flexible, easy‑to‑strip jacket; feeds through loom and tight spaces without fuss
- Red/black 100‑foot coils simplify polarity and project planning
- Good value for general 12V work
- Consistent handling and crimping behavior

Cons
- CCA’s higher resistance limits current vs. length; plan accordingly
- Not marine‑grade, not advertised as UV‑resistant or direct‑burial
- I’d choose OFC for high‑duty or long‑run circuits

Bottom line

As a shop staple for everyday 12V wiring, the GEARit 14‑gauge CCA wire set has earned a spot on my shelf. It’s easy to work with, clearly color‑coded, and priced right for projects where you don’t need the extra performance (and cost) of oxygen‑free copper. Treat it like what it is—budget‑friendly, flexible primary wire—and design your circuits with appropriate current and distance limits, and it will serve you well.

Recommendation: I recommend this wire set for general automotive and 12V accessory work, lighting circuits, and low‑to‑moderate current runs where lengths are modest and voltage drop isn’t critical. If your application is high current, long run, mission‑critical, or in a harsh marine/outdoor environment, spend the extra for OFC in a heavier gauge or marine‑grade tinned copper. In the right use cases, this set offers strong value and hassle‑free installation.