Mygatti 8 Gauge Wire 20FT, Primary Automotive Power or Ground Wire, Battery Cable, Nylon Braided Jacket, Copper Clad Aluminum, Car Audio Amplifier RV Trailer Electrical Wire, with 10 Heat Shrink Tubing, Black

What I used it for

I picked up the Mygatti 8‑gauge braided wire to tidy up a few low‑to‑moderate current runs in a car audio install and an auxiliary fuse block in an older vehicle. The 20‑foot length was enough to route a clean path from the engine bay to the trunk in a midsize sedan, and I had a few feet left for a short ground lead and speaker connections to a sub enclosure. I wasn’t looking to feed a high‑draw amplifier or an inverter; I wanted something flexible, abrasion‑resistant, and tidy‑looking that could handle accessory power and speaker duty without the bulk of heavier cable.

Build and materials

This cable uses a copper‑clad aluminum (CCA) conductor under a conventional insulation jacket, with an additional nylon braided sleeve fused onto the outside. The braid is the standout feature. It does two things very well:

• It adds abrasion resistance when you’re routing through tight grommets, along body seams, or under trim where rubbing can be an issue.
• It gives the cable a clean, finished look that doesn’t scream “aftermarket,” which is nice if you care how your wiring looks.

The conductor is fine‑stranded and reasonably supple for 8‑gauge, so bends around corners without wanting to spring back. The nylon braid adds a touch of diameter and a tiny bit of stiffness, but not enough to make routing difficult. Included in the package are ten pieces of 8 mm heat‑shrink tubing. They’re plain (not adhesive‑lined), but they’re useful for dressing ends, adding color coding, or providing strain relief at terminations.

Fit and finish are good for the price point. The jacket is consistent, the braid lies flat and doesn’t pucker, and the print on the insulation is minimal. The only quirk is at cut ends: the braid will try to fray if you don’t prep it. A short wrap of electrical tape before cutting, a hot knife, or a quick kiss with a lighter on the freshly cut braid keeps things tidy. Slide a piece of the included heat‑shrink over the end and it looks like a factory cable.

Installation notes

A few practical tips from the install:

• Strip length: The insulation strips cleanly with a ratcheting stripper set properly for 8‑gauge. The fine strands don’t crumble, which makes crimping and tinning straightforward.
• Terminations: For set‑screw amplifier blocks or fuse holders, ferrules are your friend. They prevent strand splay and make for a secure clamp. For ring terminals, use a quality hex or hydraulic crimper; CCA is softer than copper, so avoid crushing the conductor excessively.
• Heat management: When shrinking tubing near the nylon braid, keep the heat gun moving. The braid will soften if you linger, but brief exposure is fine.
• Routing: The braided jacket is a friction saver under carpet and through grommets. I still used loom and grommet protection where the cable passed through metal, but the braid clearly reduces scuffing compared to bare PVC.

Performance in practice

Electrical performance is where you need to understand what you’re buying. CCA doesn’t conduct as well as pure copper. In practical terms, you should treat this 8‑gauge CCA as roughly equivalent to a size or so smaller in pure copper for current handling and voltage drop. That doesn’t make it “bad,” it just means you should match the cable to the job.

In my setup, it worked exactly as intended:

• As a short ground lead and for speaker/sub connections, the low resistance over short distances was a non‑issue, and the flexibility made it easy to route into a tight enclosure.
• For an auxiliary fuse block powering lights and a low‑draw power outlet, it stayed cool and voltage drop was within reasonable limits at the currents involved.

If you’re planning a long run in a 12 V system to feed higher current loads, calculate or estimate the drop and be conservative. A good rule of thumb with CCA: keep continuous currents modest and runs as short as practical. For many car audio builds under a few hundred watts RMS with short battery‑to‑amp distances, this cable is fine. For big amplifiers, inverters, or under‑hood battery cables, you want true copper or you should step up to a larger gauge than 8.

Durability and protection

The outer braid earns its keep. Dragging it along the existing harness path and through a tight factory grommet didn’t scuff the underlying insulation. It also feels less likely to get nicked by sharp trim edges. I can’t speak to long‑term UV exposure, but tucked under panels and carpet it’s well protected. Around heat sources, I kept it away from exhaust components as I would any standard automotive primary wire; the jacket handled engine‑bay warmth without any softening or odor.

The manufacturer touts resistance to oil and fluids. I didn’t soak it, but a couple of smudges from oily hands wiped off the braid with an alcohol cloth. One thing to note: nylon can wick moisture. That’s one reason I wouldn’t use a braided‑sleeved CCA like this in a boat or anywhere damp and enclosed—especially without tinned copper conductors and adhesive‑lined sealing at terminations.

Where it shines

• Speaker and subwoofer connections where low resistance and flexibility matter, and the runs are short.
• Accessory power distribution in cars, RVs, and trailers at modest current levels.
• Clean, abrasion‑resistant routing where wires pass through tight spaces or along body seams.
• Aesthetic installs where a black braided sleeve looks more “finished” than glossy PVC.

Where to be cautious

• High‑current power feeds, long runs in 12 V systems, and anything with sustained heavy loads. Go up a size or choose OFC (oxygen‑free copper).
• Marine environments and exposed outdoor use. You’ll want tinned copper conductors and sealed terminations there.
• Terminals with very tight entry diameters. The added braid thickness can make tight blocks snug; remove a touch more jacket or use ferrules sized correctly.

Practical selection guidance

If you’re unsure whether this 8‑gauge CCA is appropriate for your project:

• Estimate current draw realistically (continuous, not peak).
• Keep voltage drop under about 3% in 12 V systems if the load is sensitive. Shorter runs help.
• If you’re near the limit, either shorten the run, step up to a thicker CCA, or switch to pure copper.

Those simple checks will keep you out of trouble.

Value and what’s in the box

You get 20 feet of cable and ten pieces of 8 mm heat‑shrink. The shrink is handy for finishing ends and basic strain relief; if you need waterproofing, add adhesive‑lined tubing or boots. The overall package feels like good value if you don’t need premium copper. The braid is a genuine functional upgrade over bare PVC primary wire and not just a cosmetic sleeve tossed on as an afterthought.

Final thoughts and recommendation

As a braided, flexible, and tidy‑looking 8‑gauge option for light‑to‑moderate automotive power and speaker runs, the Mygatti 8‑gauge braided wire did exactly what I expected. The nylon jacket makes routing and abrasion protection easier, the included heat‑shrink is a nice touch for finishing, and the cable handles accessory and audio duties well when you respect the realities of CCA.

I recommend it for budget‑conscious installs where you want clean, durable routing and your current needs are reasonable—think small to mid‑power car audio, RV/trailer accessories, and subwoofer or speaker wiring. I would not recommend it for high‑current battery feeds, inverters, or marine use; for those, step up to pure copper and/or a heavier gauge. Use the right cable for the job, and this one fits its niche nicely.