energeaster Solid Indoor 12/2 W/G NMB Cable 50ft Coil，Electrical Wire 12 Gauge Wire 2 Conductors Non-Metallic with Ground Wire

Why I picked up this 12/2 cable

I used the Energeaster 12/2 NM-B for a straightforward residential upgrade: adding a dedicated 20A branch circuit to serve a kitchen appliance and routing a couple of downstream receptacles in a pantry. I wanted a 50-foot coil—enough for the run with a little cushion—and a jacket that could withstand being dragged through studs and joists without scuffing or tearing. On paper, this cable checks all the boxes for indoor, dry-location branch-circuit work: 12 AWG copper, 600V rating, 90°C insulation, and the standard black/white pair with a bare ground. In practice, it behaved like a solid, no-nonsense NM-B that favors durability over extreme flexibility.

Build and design

The cable comes as a coil wrapped in a yellow jacket, which immediately signals 12 AWG to anyone used to residential color coding. Inside are two solid copper conductors (black and white) with a bare 12 AWG ground laid parallel between them. The ground is wrapped with a fire-retardant paper layer—nothing fancy, but it does make separating conductors and initiating a jacket rip cleaner.

The jacket itself is on the tougher, slightly stiffer side compared to some of the big-box NM-B I’ve used. That’s not a negative—just a characteristic to be aware of. The tougher sheath resists abrasion and nicks very well. I dragged it across raw lumber and the occasional sharp staple leg without incident. If you’re used to a softer, more pliable jacket, this one will feel more “tanky,” which can be an advantage for pulling but requires a bit more persuasion in tight bends.

As expected for NM-B, this is strictly for dry, indoor locations—wall cavities, basements (not damp), and attics are all fair game. It’s not for wet or damp areas, not for conduit outdoors, and not for direct burial. In masonry block or tile walls, you can route it through air voids provided those voids aren’t wet.

Handling and installation

The coil format saves space but holds some memory. I used the standard reverse-roll technique to straighten it: unspool a few feet, flip the coil in your hands periodically, and let it unwind in the opposite direction of the set. That quick step eliminated most of the “springiness.” The jacket’s slick finish and round-ish profile made feeding through 3/4-inch bored holes easy; it didn’t snag or shed chips into the hole like some chalkier jackets do.

Stripping the sheath with a cable ripper was straightforward. The tougher jacket means your first puncture needs a firm squeeze, but once you’re through, it zips cleanly without exposing the copper. The paper around the ground keeps the bare conductor from biting into the insulation during the rip, which is exactly what you want. Conductor insulation cut cleanly with standard strippers, and the copper itself was free of pits or oxidation.

Inside boxes, the slight stiffness shows up again. Dressing pigtails in shallow device boxes takes more deliberate bends, and I found that pre-forming gentle curves outside the box, then setting them into position, gave a tidy result. The ground forms neatly around a green screw without fracture or undue springback—no issues there. The cable seats properly under typical 3/8-inch NM cable clamps; I used standard 1/2-inch NM staples and had no crushing or jacket damage when I avoided over-driving. As always, secure within a foot of boxes and at reasonable intervals along the framing per your local code.

Electrical performance and code context

This is 12 AWG solid copper NM-B, rated 600V with 90°C insulation. In NM-B applications, you’ll typically size branch circuits using the 60°C column for ampacity, which puts 12 AWG at 20A. That’s the standard kitchen/appliance circuit territory many of us wire regularly. My run was roughly 45 feet, and voltage drop at a typical 8–12A load was negligible—as you’d expect for this gauge and distance.

If you’re running through hot attics, remember that elevated ambient temperatures and thermal insulation can require adjustment factors. This isn’t unique to this cable—just a general NM-B consideration. Also, AFCI/GFCI protection requirements vary by space and jurisdiction; plan your breaker strategy accordingly.

Where it fits best

• Kitchen and dining small-appliance circuits where 20A is standard.
• Dedicated 20A circuits for dishwashers, disposals, microwaves, and laundry (check local requirements).
• General-purpose 20A circuits in living spaces where 12 AWG is preferred or required.
• Attic and wall-cavity runs in dry locations.

Where it doesn’t belong: any wet or damp locations (garages can be nuanced; check local definitions), outdoor conduit runs, or direct burial applications. For those, you’re looking at THHN in conduit, UF-B, or other purpose-built cable.

Packaging and identification

My coil arrived shrink-wrapped without a dispenser box. The jacket printing included the expected type and gauge information, but don’t expect a manual—none is necessary for NM-B, and you should be working from your codebook and device instructions anyway. If running footage markings matter to you for estimating or cutting from the coil, verify before you buy; my coil didn’t provide running footage ticks, so I used a tape to confirm lengths as I went.

As for length accuracy, my 50-foot coil measured out correctly with a couple of inches to spare. I always recommend measuring when a run is critical—regardless of brand.

Durability over flexibility

The standout trait here is the jacket. It’s robust and holds up to jobsite handling, which I appreciate. The trade-off is a touch more rigidity compared to some softer-sheathed NM-B options. In practical terms:
- Pulling through bored holes: easier, thanks to the slicker jacket and shape.
- Dressing into shallow boxes: slightly more work to get perfect arcs.
- Stripping: clean with a proper ripper; just apply a firm first bite.

If you’re wiring a house or doing a lot of device terminations in compact boxes, you’ll notice the stiffness. If you’re doing long runs and want abrasion resistance and easy feeding, you’ll like it.

Value

On price, this coil is competitive, often undercutting equivalent 50-foot 12/2 NM-B from big-box shelves. For one-off projects or small remodels where you don’t need a 250-foot roll, this size is a sweet spot: enough for a room or two of circuits without paying for excess. I wouldn’t hesitate to pick up multiple 50-foot coils if I needed different pulls in different areas; they store neatly and don’t occupy the space a large reel does.

Tips from the install

• Pre-bend conductors before placing into shallow boxes for a tidy fit.
• Use a cable ripper rather than a utility knife to reduce nicking risk.
• Reverse-roll the coil to reduce memory before long straight runs.
• Don’t overdrive staples; the jacket is tough but not immune.
• As with any NM-B, verify listing/markings meet your local AHJ’s requirements.

Pros

• Tough, abrasion-resistant yellow jacket that pulls smoothly.
• Solid 12 AWG copper conductors with clean, consistent insulation.
• Paper-wrapped ground simplifies clean sheathing removal.
• Ideal for typical 20A residential branch circuits in dry locations.
• Good value in the 50-foot coil format.

Cons

• A bit stiffer than some NM-B, which can make box dressing slower.
• Minimal packaging and documentation; confirm markings and length yourself.
• Coil format holds memory unless you reverse-roll it.

Final recommendation

I recommend the Energeaster 12/2 NM-B for residential, dry-location branch-circuit work when you want a durable sheath and a convenient 50-foot length. It strips cleanly, pulls smoothly, and stands up to the inevitable knocks of a remodel. The extra stiffness is a minor trade-off that’s easy to manage with a cable ripper and a little pre-bending in boxes. If you need highly pliable cable for dense device stacks in shallow boxes, you might prefer a softer-sheathed NM-B. For most runs through studs, attics, and utility spaces, this cable is a dependable, cost-effective choice.