MOKIKUBA Soft ANNEALED Ground Wire Solid 10 AWG 25 FEET Copper Cables Electronic Wire Cable Electrics DIY

What I tested

I put the MOKIKUBA 10 AWG ground wire to work on three jobs: bonding a satellite dish mast to a ground rod, tying an electric fence energizer to its ground system, and making a few tidy bends for a small shop project. The spool is a straightforward 25-foot coil of bare, bronze-toned copper/steel composite conductor with a single copper split-bolt style connector in the bag. No insulation, no frills—just a stout, annealed 10-gauge wire designed for grounding and bonding.

Build, materials, and first impressions

This is a copper-steel composite wire: a copper cladding over a steel core. The approach is common in grounding and fence applications because the steel boosts tensile strength while the copper provides the conductive surface that matters most for high-frequency surge currents (like lightning) and general corrosion resistance. It’s also annealed, which in practice means it’s softer and more compliant than hard-drawn fence wire, yet still distinctly stiffer than a stranded copper conductor of the same gauge.

Out of the bag, the coil had mild memory but wasn’t jumpy or springy. The surface finish was clean with no flaky plating or rough seams. As a bare conductor, it’s ready for clamps, split-bolts, and rods—no jacket to strip, and nothing to get nicked on pulls. The included connector is a small copper bolt-style splice; it will get you through a basic extension or a simple bond, though I’d reach for a listed, appropriately sized split-bolt or bronze ground clamp for anything permanent or direct-burial.

Handling and workability

Ten-gauge solid wire has a personality: it bends cleanly, holds shape beautifully, and resists inadvertent kinks—but it takes some effort. The annealed temper helps a lot. I could form consistent 90s by hand around a scrap of 1/2-inch conduit, and the wire didn’t fight me like hard-drawn fence line. Still, you’ll want gloves. The copper surface is smooth, but the cut ends are sharp, and the steel core will happily remind you if you twist too aggressively.

• Bending: Easy to form with a hand bender or by rolling along a dowel; spring-back is modest.
• Pulling: Through short runs of PVC, it was doable with fish tape and lube but noticeably more stubborn than stranded THHN. Expect a bit of friction and plan gentle radius bends.
• Terminating: The copper cladding takes clamps well; the surface didn’t gall with a properly sized bronze clamp.

If you’re used to stranded ground conductors, this will feel stiff. If you’re used to hard-drawn galvanized fence wire, this will feel fairly compliant.

In use: satellite/antenna bond

For bonding a dish mast to a ground rod, the 25-foot length covered a typical back-of-house run with a clean path and a drip loop near the entry. The 10 AWG size aligns with common antenna bonding requirements, and the copper exterior plays nicely with bronze clamps. The wire stayed put in formed clips, and the steel core let me keep a taut line without fear of stretching. The result was tidy, low-profile, and mechanically sound. If you routinely do longer runs across a roofline, you’ll want a longer coil, but for a single mast-to-rod bond, 25 feet is a practical kit length.

In use: electric fence grounding

Electric fences are demanding on mechanics more than on low-frequency conductivity. This wire shines there. The steel core resists snapping when tensioned along a short hop to ground rods, and the copper surface tolerates the outdoor environment better than bare steel. I used bronze rod clamps and dielectric grease at the connections; the wire accepted torque without deforming or cold-flowing like softer pure copper sometimes does. It’s also less prone to messy bird’s nests at the energizer than stranded alternatives. If you’re building a large multi-rod ground bed, 25 feet goes quickly—consider this a patch lead, a jumper between rods, or the segment from energizer to the first rod rather than your entire ground grid.

Electrical performance and realities

At 10 AWG, copper’s DC resistance is low, and while this is a copper/steel composite, the copper cladding conducts the surface currents associated with lightning surges very effectively. For bonding and surge grounding, that balance of tensile strength and copper surface is exactly what you want. For long DC runs where resistance is critical, a pure copper conductor still has the edge. In practical terms:

• Surge/lighting bonding: Very good. The copper exterior is what matters most at high frequencies.
• Short ground leads: Very good. Low resistance over 25 feet, mechanically robust.
• Long low-voltage DC returns: I’d choose pure copper if voltage drop is a concern.

As always, match your conductor to the code requirements of the system. A 10 AWG bare conductor is suitable for many bonding tasks (like antenna systems) but is not a universal Grounding Electrode Conductor for every service. Check local code and equipment labeling, and use listed connectors for direct burial.

Durability and corrosion

Copper-clad steel is a known quantity in the soil. The copper exterior resists corrosion well when connections are clean and tight. If you nick through the copper into the steel during cutting or when over-tightening a clamp, you can create a spot more susceptible to rust. My habit: use sharp cutters, deburr the end, avoid gouging with set screws, and apply antioxidant compound on buried joints. The bronze-colored finish maintained a uniform look after installation; no flaking or discoloration after a week outdoors in intermittent rain, which tracks with expectations for this material.

Packaging, length, and the included connector

The 25-foot coil measured true to length in my case. The wire is easy to unspool without snarls if you keep the coil bound and feed from the center. The single included copper bolt connector is a nice bonus for a quick splice, though I’d regard it as a convenience part, not a replacement for a properly sized, listed split-bolt or ground clamp. One is rarely enough—if you anticipate multiple junctions, buy the right hardware alongside the wire.

Where it fits and where it doesn’t

Great for:
- Bonding a satellite dish or antenna mast to a ground rod
- Electric fence ground leads and robust jumpers
- Lightning protection bonds, surge diversion paths, and short exterior grounding runs
- Shop and DIY uses where a stiff, formable bare conductor is useful

Not ideal for:
- Long interior pulls through conduit where stranded copper would be easier
- Primary service Grounding Electrode Conductors that require larger gauges or specific listings
- Situations needing insulation or color identification
- Direct burial joints without proper listed connectors

Practical tips from the install

• Use bronze or listed copper alloy clamps; avoid mixing dissimilar metals that invite galvanic corrosion.
• Maintain large bend radiuses—no tight kinks—especially where surge currents might flow.
• For conduit pulls, a fish tape and wire lube make a big difference; avoid crowded conduits with tight sweeps.
• Deburr cut ends and avoid gouging the copper layer with set screws. A split-bolt sized for 10 AWG, tightened to spec, preserves the cladding.

The bottom line

The MOKIKUBA 10 AWG ground wire strikes a thoughtful balance: enough copper on the outside for reliable bonding and surge performance, a steel core for pull strength and shape retention, and an annealed temper that makes it workable without special tools. It is unapologetically a bare, solid conductor—stiff compared to stranded THHN, but far friendlier than hard-drawn fence wire. In my installations it produced clean, secure bonds, resisted kinks, and stayed put once formed.

Recommendation: I recommend it for short to medium grounding and bonding tasks where mechanical robustness and clean routing matter—antenna/dish bonds, electric fence ground leads, and lightning protection jumpers are right in its wheelhouse. If you need long interior pulls, insulated conductors, or code-critical service grounding where size and listings are strictly prescribed, look to a stranded, listed copper alternative. For what it is—a 25-foot, annealed, copper-clad steel 10-gauge ground wire—it’s a solid, dependable piece of kit.