Norske Tools NCSBS409 7-1/4 inch 24T Socktooth Ciruclar Saw Framing Blade 5/8 inch Bore with Laser Cut Diamond Knockout for Sheet Goods, Deck & Fence, Framing Lumber, Studs and Composites

What I tested and why

For framing and deck builds, a 7-1/4-inch, 24-tooth blade is the workhorse I reach for most. I used the Norske 24T framing blade across a few weeks of mixed work: ripping and crosscutting SPF studs, trimming pressure-treated joists, breaking down plywood and OSB, and making a handful of cuts in composite deck boards and a piece of strand bamboo. I ran it primarily on a corded sidewinder and a worm drive, both with 5/8-inch arbors. I also tested the diamond knockout to confirm fit on a saw that requires it.

This blade is built around a fully hardened steel body, with precision-ground carbide teeth and what Norske calls a sock-tooth design—an enlarged shoulder behind each tip to support the carbide during heavy cuts. It also has an aggressive 25° hook angle aimed at fast feed rates, plus a laser-cut diamond knockout for worm-drive compatibility. On paper, that’s a solid recipe for a fast framing and demolition blade. In the wood, it behaved like one too—mostly in good ways, with a couple of caveats.

Build, setup, and compatibility

Out of the sleeve, the plate was flat and clean, and the teeth were evenly set and sharp. The black finish held up after several days of cutting without obvious resin build-up. Arbor fit on a standard 5/8-inch flange was snug with no slop. The diamond knockout released cleanly with a couple of taps and locked onto a worm-drive arbor without chatter. If you use multiple saws, that knockout saves having to keep different blades around.

The plate feels stout for a 7-1/4-inch blade, and that extra stiffness shows up when the saw is under load. I didn’t detect notable flutter or bell-ringing as the blade exited cuts, which can be a problem on cheaper plates. That stiffness also helps the blade track in long rips.

Cutting speed and feel

The 25° hook angle and 24-tooth count prioritize speed and chip ejection over finish, which is exactly what you want in framing. In 2x SPF and southern yellow pine, the blade pulled into the cut with little push effort. The saw motor never felt overtaxed, even when I leaned on it through wet PT lumber. On the worm drive, the cut had that “self-feeding” feel you get from aggressive hooks—fast, controlled, and predictable as long as you keep the shoe planted and your line of sight clear.

In thicker rips (ripping 2x along the grain), the blade kept its pace and held a straight line without wandering. Crosscuts in studs were crisp with minimal fuzzing on the exit side, and I didn’t hear the teeth chattering on knots. The sock-tooth shoulders likely help stabilize the tips when you hit hard inclusions or switches in grain.

On a cordless saw, the low push effort is welcome. Aggressive hooks can sometimes cost you battery if they grab and stall, but this blade stayed efficient—steady feed, clean chip evacuation, and no bogging in typical materials. If your cordless saw struggles, it’s more about the saw’s torque than the blade.

Sheet goods and composites

On plywood and OSB, a 24T blade is a compromise: fast break-down with some tearout on the face veneer. With this blade, tearout stayed reasonable if I kept the blade depth just past the material thickness and supported the work. For visible cuts, a quick score pass at shallow depth or painter’s tape on the show side gave a cleaner edge. It’s not a finish plywood blade, and it doesn’t pretend to be; used appropriately, it’ll handle sheet goods just fine on site.

Composite deck boards and strand bamboo are dense and abrasive. I made a handful of cuts in each. The blade stayed on line and cleared chips well. Expect a more aggressive bite and some edge fuzzing on composites—again, not a finish blade—but it didn’t burn or smear, and it didn’t slow down to a crawl. If you make a lot of composite or bamboo cuts, you’ll want a higher-tooth, specialized blade; for occasional cuts, this one is serviceable.

Cut quality and accuracy

For framing lumber, the cut quality is what I look for: edges that are square and true, with saw marks light enough not to affect fit-up. In hardwoods (oak and maple offcuts), the blade cut without burning, but you’ll see more pronounced machining marks on crosscuts and a bit of splintering at the exit. That’s inherent to the tooth count and hook angle. If your work involves visible hardwood edges, switch to a 40T or higher.

The blade runs true. I didn’t see runout in my sample—no wavy kerfs or lateral wander. The plate stiffness keeps the kerf consistent through the cut. If you ever do encounter wobble on any blade, it’s often a manufacturing defect or a bent plate; exchange it rather than fighting it.

Noise, vibration, and comfort

Some framing blades ring like cymbals under load. This one stayed relatively quiet and free of high-pitched resonance. I didn’t notice irritating harmonic vibration in the handle, and the saw tone didn’t spike as the blade exited cuts. Less vibration usually means a cleaner edge and better control, and that was my experience here.

Durability and maintenance

After a steady run cutting studs, PT, and a smattering of composite and bamboo, the carbide still felt sharp at the fingertips and continued to feed without me forcing it. That sock-tooth shoulder seems to protect the carbide during accidental contact with hidden fasteners; I grazed one plated screw and lost a micro-chip on a tip but the blade kept cutting fine. As with any blade, pitch will build on the teeth if you spend a day in sappy pine—cleaning with a blade-safe solvent restores performance quickly.

This blade can be sharpened when it dulls; the carbide tips are large enough to survive a couple of grinds. That said, the economics of sharpening a 24T framing blade vary by shop. It’s nice to have the option.

Safety notes

The aggressive hook contributes to speed but also raises kickback potential in certain cuts, especially plunge cuts and when crosscutting narrow stock without full support. Keep both hands on the saw, let the blade spin up fully, and start gently. For sheet goods, set the depth so only a tooth or two clears the bottom—better control and less tearout.

Value and use cases

As an all-around jobsite blade, the Norske 24T framing blade hits the right notes: fast, predictable cutting in construction lumber; acceptable performance in sheet goods with basic technique; and enough durability to stay on the saw through a busy week without turning into a burner. The diamond knockout expands compatibility, and the hardened body keeps the plate behaving under load.

It’s not a fine-finish blade and won’t replace your 40–60T trim blades for visible edges. If your day is mostly cabinetry, look elsewhere. But for framing, decking, fence builds, and general carpentry, this blade feels like a good balance of speed, control, and longevity.

What I liked

• Fast feed rate in 2x material with low push effort
• Plate stiffness that resists flutter and helps track straight
• Carbide that holds up to knots and occasional abrasive materials
• Useful diamond knockout for worm-drive arbors
• Manageable noise and vibration

What could be better

• Tearout on plywood and hardwood crosscuts (expected for 24T/25° hook)
• Aggressive hook can grab on plunge cuts—requires good technique
• As with any mass-market blade, if you encounter runout, swap it rather than trying to true it in the field

Recommendation

I recommend the Norske 24T framing blade for carpenters and DIYers who need a dependable, fast-cutting blade for framing lumber, decking, and general jobsite work. It feeds quickly, tracks straight, and holds an edge through a variety of materials without punishing your saw or your ears. Pair it with a higher-tooth blade for finish cuts and you’ll have most of your circular saw needs covered. If your work skews heavily toward fine plywood or hardwood trim, choose a finer-tooth blade instead; otherwise, this is a solid, cost-effective staple for the tool bag.