Ozek Anode Rod for Hot Water Heater - Magnesium 9.25" Length ¾" NPT - 2 Pack

Why I swapped in this anode rod

On an early-season shakedown trip, I pulled the drain/anode from my RV’s Suburban water heater and found the usual pitted nub—proof it had been doing its job. I installed the Ozek anode rod as a like-for-like replacement and ran it through a few months of mixed campground water, including some notoriously hard supplies. After a full cycle of use, flushing, and inspection, here’s how it performed and where it fits in the toolkit for basic RV water heater maintenance.

What it is and what it fits

This is a magnesium sacrificial anode rod that doubles as the drain plug on many RV water heaters. It’s 9.25 inches long with 3/4-inch NPT threads and takes a 1-1/16-inch socket. It’s designed for Suburban and Mor-Flo steel, glass-lined tanks (including Suburban 232767 spec). If you’re running an Atwood/Dometic aluminum tank, don’t use an anode—those tanks are designed without one.

The kit I used is a two-pack and includes PTFE tape. Having a spare in the kit is a small but meaningful convenience: checking mid-season doesn’t sideline the rig if the current rod is more than 50% consumed.

Install and setup

Installation was straightforward and took me about 20 minutes, most of which was spent safely draining and flushing the tank.

My steps:
- Turn off power and fuel to the water heater; let it cool fully.
- Close the water supply, open a hot tap inside to relieve pressure.
- Use a 1-1/16-inch deep socket and a breaker bar to crack the old anode loose. Be ready—the anode is also your drain plug on Suburban units, so water will flow as soon as it backs out.
- With the tank empty, I backflushed the sediment via the anode port using a wand until the discharge ran clear.
- I applied 2–3 wraps of the included PTFE tape to the Ozek threads. Don’t overwrap—you want metal-to-metal contact to ensure electrical continuity for proper galvanic protection.
- Threaded the rod in by hand, then snugged with the socket—firm but not over-torqued.
- Refilled, checked for leaks, and bled air from taps.

Thread quality on the rod I received was clean and burr-free, and it seated without fuss. The hex head is properly sized for the socket, and the finish wasn’t prone to galling during install or removal.

Performance over a season

Magnesium is the more active material compared with aluminum or aluminum-zinc anodes, so it typically offers stronger protection for steel tanks. The tradeoff is faster consumption, especially with hard or high-mineral water—precisely what many campgrounds serve up.

After a heavy-use season with several flushes, my Ozek rod showed substantial and uniform depletion along its length, more than half consumed. That’s exactly what I want to see: the rod sacrificing itself instead of the tank lining. I didn’t encounter any leaks or seeping at the threads, and the rod removed easily for inspection without binding.

I didn’t notice a hydrogen sulfide (“rotten egg”) odor in my hot water, but it’s worth addressing: certain water chemistries and bacteria can react with magnesium and produce odor. If you do experience it, a shock chlorination of the tank and plumbing often helps; in persistent cases, switching to an aluminum-zinc anode can reduce the smell. For my use, magnesium continues to be the right call for stronger corrosion protection.

Build quality and design notes

• Material: The magnesium alloy appears consistent and free of voids. The sacrificial pitting was even—a good sign.
• Threads and hex: Nicely machined; no cross-threading or rounding issues. The 1-1/16-inch hex is standard for RV anodes and plays well with common deep sockets.
• Length: At 9.25 inches, it’s appropriate for Suburban’s common 6-gallon and 10-gallon tanks. I had no clearance issues behind the water heater door.
• Extras: The included PTFE tape is a thoughtful touch. Two or three wraps are plenty; too much tape can insulate the threads.

Maintenance impact

Anode maintenance is the cheapest insurance you can buy for a steel RV water heater. I recommend:
- Inspecting at least twice per year if you’re using hard water or camping often.
- Replacing when 50–75% of the magnesium is consumed, or if the steel core wire is exposed.
- Flushing the tank every time you pull the anode to remove sediment that insulates heating surfaces and accelerates wear.
- Avoiding overtightening; use a snug, leak-free torque you can later break free.

This rod integrates cleanly into that routine. The two-pack encourages you to check more often because you’ve already got a spare on hand.

Magnesium vs. aluminum (and when to choose)

• Choose magnesium (this rod) if: you want maximum corrosion protection for a steel-lined tank and you’re willing to replace the rod more frequently in hard water.
• Consider aluminum or aluminum-zinc if: you’re fighting persistent hot-water odor or want slower consumption in extremely hard water at the expense of some protection.

For my Suburban 6-gallon tank and travel schedule, magnesium remains the better balance.

Value and longevity

The two-pack pricing is competitive and practical. In hard-water conditions with frequent use, I expect one rod to last roughly a season; lighter use or frequent flushing could extend that somewhat. If you camp heavily or notice rapid consumption, plan on a mid-season check. The cost of a rod is trivial compared to prematurely replacing a tank or dealing with leaks from under-protected steel.

What could be improved

• Origin transparency: The company is US-based, but the rods are manufactured in China. If US-made is your priority, you’ll need to look elsewhere; otherwise, build quality here is solid.
• Clearer guidance in-box: A quick install card with key cautions—safe depressurization, flush steps, tape wraps—would be helpful for first-time users.
• Odor advisory: A small note about potential magnesium-related odor and mitigation steps would set expectations for users in problem water areas.

None of these affect performance, but they’re worth knowing before you start.

Compatibility checklist

• Yes: Suburban and Mor-Flo steel, glass-lined RV water heaters (e.g., Suburban 232767), 3/4-inch NPT, 1-1/16-inch socket.
• No: Atwood/Dometic aluminum tanks (no anode required).
• Space: Verify you have room to swing a breaker bar in the water heater compartment; a short extension helps.

Practical tips from the install

• Use a breaker bar, not a ratchet, for the first crack—factory-installed anodes can be stubborn.
• Relieve pressure completely before removal; otherwise, you’ll eject the rod under force.
• Don’t skimp on flushing. Most of the grit that comes out will never leave unless you direct it out through the anode port.
• Keep a spare anode in the RV’s maintenance bin. If the current one is nearly spent, you won’t delay a trip.

The bottom line

I recommend the Ozek anode rod for RV owners with Suburban or Mor-Flo steel tanks who want dependable, magnesium-based protection in an easy, affordable two-pack. It installs cleanly, fits correctly with standard tools, and, most importantly, sacrifices at a healthy rate in hard-water conditions—exactly what you want to see. The inclusion of PTFE tape is convenient, and the value proposition is strong for anyone maintaining a water heater on a regular schedule.

If you require US-made manufacturing or you routinely battle hot-water odor and prefer aluminum-zinc, this isn’t your ideal fit. For everyone else focused on straightforward corrosion protection and simple maintenance, this rod earns a spot in the toolkit.