METER STAR Universal Direct-Row Gas Water Heater Pulse Igniter, Flue Type Igniter Controller Water Heater Accessories

Why I tried this igniter

I picked up the Meter Star pulse igniter to resuscitate a finicky flue‑type, battery‑ignition water heater that had lost its spark. These heaters are simple by design—no mains power, a couple of AA batteries, and a piezo or electronic igniter—but when the ignition module goes, the entire appliance is dead weight. I wanted a drop‑in, low‑cost module that could drive two spark electrodes and live in the warm, occasionally humid environment around a flue. This unit promised a 3 V input and a >12 kV spark output, plus a “double ignition” setup, which is exactly the footprint many compact, direct‑row/tankless heaters use.

What it is

In practical terms, this is a compact, 3 V DC pulse igniter module with two high‑voltage outputs intended for gas water heaters or small gas appliances that rely on battery ignition. The simplified takeaway:

• Power: 3 V DC (typically two AA cells)
• Output: >12 kV pulsed spark
• Application: Direct‑row/flue‑type water heaters and stoves with battery ignition
• Configuration: Two HV channels for two electrodes (double ignition)

There’s no control logic for flame proving or valve actuation inside this module. It’s a spark generator that fires when supplied with 3 V according to the appliance’s trigger scheme (flow switch, microswitch, or a basic control board).

Installation experience

On my test heater, the swap was straightforward: disconnect the battery pack, remove the old igniter module, transfer the two HV leads to the existing ceramic electrodes, and connect the 3 V input leads. The module fired immediately with an audible, rapid tick, and I could see strong, consistent spark across both gaps.

A few practical notes from the install:

• Mounting: The housing is small and light. I reused the original mounting point, keeping it away from the hottest sections of the flue jacket and any spot with condensed moisture.
• Wiring: The 3 V leads were plainly marked. Polarity mattered on my heater’s harness (red to positive). If your original system is polarity‑agnostic, the module will still prefer correct orientation for consistent output.
• HV routing: Keep the high‑voltage leads away from sharp edges and metal surfaces to avoid tracking. If your original leads are frayed or stiff, replace them—12 kV will find the shortest path.
• Spark gap: I set each electrode gap to roughly 3–4 mm. The module had no trouble maintaining an arc over that distance, and ignition was immediate.

The entire swap, including tidying the wiring and re‑gapping electrodes, took under 30 minutes.

Compatibility: “Universal” with caveats

“Universal” in gas ignition land always comes with an asterisk. This module is a good fit if your appliance:

• Uses two AA batteries (3 V) as its ignition power source
• Has basic, two‑electrode ignition without integrated flame rectification in the igniter itself
• Triggers ignition via a simple switch or low‑complexity control board

It’s not a direct substitute for systems where the igniter and the main control board are a single integrated assembly with diagnostics or where flame sensing is performed through the same electrode and requires a specific rectification circuit. It also won’t fix a faulty gas valve, clogged burner, failed diaphragm/flow sensor, or a bad microswitch. If your heater originally used mains power or a different ignition voltage, look elsewhere.

Before you buy, here’s a quick fit checklist:
- Confirm your existing ignition runs on two AA batteries or a 3 V pack
- Count electrodes: if you have two, this double‑output module is a likely match
- Check the wiring style and connector type (you may need to crimp spade terminals)
- Measure available space and keep it away from direct flue heat
- Inspect electrodes; if they’re cracked or heavily carbonized, plan to replace them

Build and design

The housing is a compact, sealed plastic shell that feels appropriately insulated for the job. It’s not mil‑spec, but it doesn’t need to be. The HV ports are well isolated, and the leads seated firmly. The 3 V input pigtail is adequately long for most tankless housings, and the unit is light enough to secure with a screw or adhesive pad.

I wouldn’t put it directly against a flue collar or in standing water, but within the typical shielded compartment of a flue‑type heater the build is perfectly serviceable. If you’re in a damp region, a small drip loop on the HV lines and a breathable cover over the module help ward off condensation issues.

Performance in use

With >12 kV output, the spark energy is more than enough for domestic gas/LP burners. On my heater:

• Ignition speed: The burner lit within a second of the gas valve opening, consistently.
• Spark quality: Bright, crisp ticks at a steady cadence; no weak or intermittent arcs.
• Reliability: Over a few weeks of daily hot water cycles, I had no misfires or delayed lights.

It’s worth noting that reliable ignition isn’t all on the module. Burner cleanliness, proper airflow, correct electrode placement, and good grounding are just as important. If your flame lights late or pops, check the burner throat and ensure the electrode tip sits in the gas stream.

Safety and setup best practices

Working around gas and high voltage demands caution. A few pointers:

• Kill gas before any adjustments; relight only when you’re ready to test.
• Use insulated pliers to set the spark gap; don’t test sparks by hand.
• Keep HV leads intact; any nicks can lead to arcing to chassis.
• Ensure a solid ground path between the electrode bracket and the appliance chassis.
• Replace tired AA cells; low voltage causes weak sparks and erratic timing.
• If you smell gas or hear continuous sparking without ignition, stop and diagnose the gas train and airflow before proceeding.

Value for money

For an inexpensive module, the Meter Star igniter offers strong fundamentals: easy 3 V integration, dual‑electrode support, and enough output to light stubborn burners. It’s priced attractively compared to OEM boards, especially for older heaters where factory parts are scarce or disproportionately expensive.

The trade‑offs are what you’d expect at this price point. The module doesn’t add smart features (flame proving, lockouts, diagnostics), and the overall finish is utilitarian. As long as you approach it as a robust spark box—not a full control brain—it’s fair value.

Where it fits best

• Owners of older, battery‑ignited, flue‑type water heaters needing a replacement spark module
• DIYers comfortable with basic appliance wiring and electrode adjustment
• Light commercial or outbuilding installs where mains power isn’t available and simplicity is an asset

Where I wouldn’t use it:
- Modern condensing or sealed‑combustion appliances relying on integrated control boards and flame rectification through the igniter
- Systems expecting specific OEM connectors, sealed harnesses, or compliance documentation beyond basic electrical safety

Troubleshooting tips

If you install the module and still can’t get ignition:

• No spark sound: Verify 3 V at the input leads under load. Replace batteries. Check polarity.
• Sporadic sparking: Inspect HV leads for chafe; reduce the gap to ~3 mm temporarily.
• Sparks but no flame: Clean burner and pilot area; confirm gas supply and valve operation.
• One side sparking, the other quiet: Swap the HV outputs to isolate a bad lead/electrode.

A loose connection at either the 3 V feed or the HV terminals can mimic a failed module. Take the extra minute to tug‑test every connector.

The bottom line

The Meter Star pulse igniter does exactly what a good universal spark module should do: take a simple 3 V input and reliably generate a strong, repeatable spark across two electrodes. In my use, it brought a basic flue‑type tankless back to life with minimal fuss, and it has kept ignition snappy ever since. Its strengths are straightforward installation, solid spark energy, and a price that makes sense for older or budget appliances.

I recommend it—with conditions. If your heater is the battery‑ignited, two‑electrode variety and you’re comfortable verifying the basics (3 V supply, electrode condition, proper grounding), this is a practical, effective replacement. If your system relies on an integrated control board with flame sensing or specialized connectors, you’ll be better served by the OEM part or a module specifically designed to match that logic.