PERMINKS Atwood 93868 Water Heater Replacement Parts - Spark & Sensor Electrode, 2-Prong - Water Heating Replacement Accessory for RV, Camper, Trailer & More

A fault light on my RV’s water heater is my least favorite camping companion. On a recent trip, my Atwood unit began sparking intermittently and dropping flame a few seconds after ignition. I swapped in the PERMINKS electrode (model 93868) and the system has been steady ever since. After installing and living with it across a few weeks of travel, here’s how it stacks up.

What it is and why it matters

This is a combined spark igniter and flame sensor for Atwood/Dometic spark‑ignition water heaters. It’s the two-prong style used on many 6- and 10-gallon units (including common GC6AA and GC10A families, as well as XT variants). The electrode both lights the burner and confirms that the flame is present, so a weak or cracked probe often shows up as repeated clicking, lockouts, or a flame that lights but won’t “prove” and stays on.

If your heater sparks but won’t settle into a stable burn, or if it lights and then shuts down with a fault indicator, this part is a prime suspect—after you’ve verified propane supply, grounds, and basic wiring.

Installation: genuinely straightforward

Swaps like this shouldn’t require a service bay, and this one doesn’t. My process took about 15 minutes:

1. Kill 12V power and shut off propane.
2. Remove the exterior access panel and burner assembly cover.
3. Unplug the two-prong connector and remove the single mounting fastener for the old electrode.
4. Transfer the new electrode into the same bracket position, taking care not to stress the ceramic insulator.
5. Reconnect the two-prong plug, verify the ground strap at the burner is clean and tight, and reassemble.

A few notes that made the difference:
- Probe gap and placement matter. I set the spark tip roughly 1/8 inch from the burner surface, with the flame-sense rod in the direct flame path. Small changes here can solve big ignition headaches.
- Don’t over-tighten. The ceramic insulator is tough but not invincible.
- Clean as you go. I brushed soot from the burner tube and checked the orifice for debris; a dirty burner can mimic sensor problems.

The part reuses factory hardware and the existing connector. Mine plugged in without drama and aligned cleanly with the burner.

Build quality and design

The ceramic and electrode rod feel solid, not brittle, and the connector housing mates securely with the factory plug. The rod’s geometry and length match the original pattern, so it sits in the flame where it should. After a season’s worth of weekend use, the insulator shows no spider-web cracks and the rod hasn’t warped or pitted prematurely.

I wouldn’t call it fancy—there are no extras in the box, and you won’t find a printed spec sheet—but the execution is correct where it counts: fitment, alignment, and electrical connection.

Performance in actual use

With the new electrode installed, ignition was immediate and repeatable. Key behaviors I watched:

• Cold-start reliability: The burner lit on the first spark in each of a dozen restarts. No extra clicking, no false starts.
• Flame stability: The control board consistently “saw” the flame; no dropouts or lockouts during wind gusts or brief door openings.
• Hot re-lights: After drawing hot water and cycling, restarts were clean. Some failing sensors pass cold starts but stumble hot—this one did not.

Noise and heat output were unchanged from OEM levels (as they should be), but the biggest difference was the absence of nuisance lockouts. If you’ve lived with a reluctant Atwood, you’ll know that’s the whole point.

Compatibility notes

PERMINKS lists broad compatibility across Atwood models like GC6AA, G6A, GH6, G10/GC10/ GH10 series, and the GCH variants, both 6- and 10-gallon, including XT units. This is the two-prong electrode; if your heater uses a different connector style or a different bracket orientation, double-check your exact model number before ordering. On older or modified rigs, visual confirmation beats guesswork.

Troubleshooting tips before and after replacing

An electrode can’t solve every ignition issue. If you’re chasing intermittent faults, confirm these basics:

• Grounding: The burner assembly must be well-grounded to the chassis. Clean any rust under the ground screw.
• Board and fuses: Inspect the control board connector pins and replace any corroded inline fuse holders.
• Burner/orifice: Spider webs or dirt in the burner tube will cause poor ignition and unstable flame.
• Gas supply: Low propane pressure or a regulator on its way out can mimic flame-sense problems.
• Thermal cut-off and thermostats: A blown thermal fuse or faulty ECO/thermostat will prevent proper operation altogether.

If all that checks out, a fresh electrode is a logical and relatively inexpensive next step.

Durability and maintenance

Electrodes live in heat and vibration; even good ones eventually age. After installation, I make a habit of:

• Inspecting the probe annually for cracks in the ceramic and soot buildup on the rod.
• Verifying the gap hasn’t drifted due to vibration.
• Cleaning the burner intake screen and tube at the start of each season.

So far, this electrode has held gap and alignment without fuss, which is what you want: forgettable reliability.

Value

RV parts pricing can be…creative. Compared with brick-and-mortar RV stores, this electrode is priced competitively without giving up fit or function. It’s the kind of part I now keep a spare of in the rig—small, inexpensive insurance that can save a trip from being cut short.

What I liked

• Fitment: Dropped straight into an Atwood housing and bracket with the correct two-prong connector.
• Quick install: One fastener and a plug; minimal tools; no sealing surfaces to disturb.
• Consistent ignition: First-spark starts and solid flame sensing across cold and hot cycles.
• Solid materials: Ceramic and rod quality feel on par with factory components.

What could be better

• Documentation: A simple one-sheet showing recommended gap and placement would help DIYers avoid guesswork.
• Packaging: Including a new mounting screw or lock washer would be a nice touch for older units where hardware is rusty.

Neither of these is a deal-breaker; they’d just polish an already good experience.

Who it’s for

• DIY RV owners with Atwood/Dometic 6- or 10-gallon spark-ignition heaters who are seeing intermittent ignition, repeated clicking, or flame-proving lockouts.
• Travelers who want a proven spare in their maintenance kit.
• Technicians looking for a reliable, correctly sized electrode option that installs like the original.

If you have a combination gas/electric heater, note that this part addresses the gas ignition side only; electric element issues will be elsewhere.

Final take

Across installation, fit, and day-to-day performance, the PERMINKS electrode did exactly what I needed: restore reliable ignition and flame sensing without adding quirks of its own. It feels like a true drop-in for the common Atwood 93868 application, and the price makes it an easy decision compared with a shop visit or a guess-and-check spree of parts.

Recommendation: I recommend this electrode. It installs easily, matches OEM geometry and connector style, and has delivered consistent starts and stable flame sensing in real use. For anyone maintaining an Atwood/Dometic spark-ignition water heater, it’s a sensible first-line fix—and a smart spare to keep on-board.