ONENESS 369 RV Water Heater Anode Rod - 2-Pack, 2 Years Warranty - 9.25" x 3/4" NPT - Premium Magnesium Anode Rod for hot water heater Rv, Long-Lasting Protection Suburban Anode Rod for Rv Water Heater

Why this RV anode rod earned a spot in my toolkit

I treat the anode rod in my Suburban water heater as a consumable—cheap insurance that keeps expensive tanks out of the landfill. After a season of use with the Oneness 369 RV anode rod kit, I’m comfortable calling it a practical, no-nonsense upgrade that hits the right balance of protection, value, and ease of maintenance.

This is a two-pack of 9.25-inch, 3/4-inch NPT magnesium anode rods designed for Suburban RV water heaters. The kit also includes a dual-hex removal tool and a replacement heating element made from Incoloy 840. It’s an unusually complete bundle for basic water heater maintenance, and that matters when you’re trying to service a heater in a cramped bay at a campground.

Setup and installation

Installation was straightforward, but a few steps make it smoother:

• I turned off water to the RV and both gas and electric heat to the tank.
• I opened the pressure relief valve to depressurize, then cracked the old anode loose using the included wrench.
• With the drain open, I flushed the tank until the water ran clear.
• I wrapped the new rod’s threads with PTFE tape (not included) and snugged it in place with the wrench.

The hex tool included in the kit fits the anode and the water heater element, which meant I didn’t have to cobble together a socket workaround. The finish on the rod’s threads was clean, and I had no sealing issues after a single lap of tape. If you’re used to working on household water heaters, the process will feel familiar—just scaled to RV constraints.

A few installation notes:
- If your water heater has seen a season or two without service, expect some grit and magnesium sludge during the flush. Let it run clear.
- Don’t skip the pressure relief step. It prevents a messy shower of tank water when the old rod pops free.
- If your rig has the electric element option, it’s a convenient time to inspect or swap it while the tank is open. The Incoloy 840 element in this kit is a nice inclusion if yours is pitted.

Build and compatibility

Magnesium is the right call for Suburban steel tanks, especially if you roam across varying water conditions. It’s more active than aluminum or zinc, meaning it sacrifices itself to corrosion more readily and can offer stronger protection. The trade-off is that magnesium typically depletes faster, which is why I appreciate that this kit ships as a two-pack.

A few compatibility specifics:
- Size: 9.25" length, 3/4" NPT threads, designed for Suburban water heaters. This is the standard Suburban spec.
- Not for Atwood/Dometic aluminum tank heaters that use a drain plug rather than a sacrificial anode. If your Atwood model accepts an anode, it uses 1/2" NPT and a shorter rod—this kit won’t fit.
- If you frequently encounter mineral-rich water, consider replacing more often or checking mid-season.

The kit is backed by a two-year warranty and comes from a small U.S.-based brand that clearly understands RV water heaters. The pieces feel purpose-built, not generic.

In use: protection you can actually see

You can’t peer into a water heater tank to see corrosion being prevented, but you can read the anode. After one long season—roughly six months of mixed campground and well-water use—the rod showed even pitting and about a third of its mass consumed. That’s exactly what I want to see: uniform depletion across the rod, no odd crevices, and no signs the tank itself is picking up the slack.

Water quality stayed stable. No oily film, no gritty residue returning after the flush, and heating performance was unaffected, which is what you’d expect—anodes don’t alter recovery time. I did a quick mid-season check by cracking the drain and inspecting the first rush of water; minimal cloudiness suggested the rod was doing its job.

On odor: in my case, swapping to a fresh magnesium rod and flushing the tank reduced a faint “campground water” smell that had crept in mid-season. It’s worth noting that odor is highly water-dependent. In some systems, magnesium can aggravate a sulfur smell. If that happens to you, an aluminum/zinc anode is a sensible alternative. But for corrosion protection, magnesium remains my first choice for Suburban tanks.

The included hex wrench and element: more useful than expected

The dual-hex removal tool in the kit is simple and sturdy. It fits tight spaces better than a bulky socket, and it spared me from rounding off a stubborn anode head. The leverage is adequate; if your anode has been neglected for years, a short cheater bar helps, but I didn’t need one.

The replacement element is Incoloy 840, a higher-grade alloy that resists scaling and high-temperature corrosion better than plain copper or lower-grade steel. If your rig uses the electric assist regularly, this matters. Swapping an element while the tank is open is a 10-minute job that can prevent a mid-trip failure. I tested fitment and threads; both were clean and seated properly.

Maintenance cadence and tips

• Check annually. If you’re full-timing or camping on hard water, check mid-season.
• Replace when 50–75% of the rod is gone—or sooner if you see deep pitting near the core wire.
• Flush the tank with the anode removed. A simple wand attachment on a hose helps dislodge sediment.
• Use PTFE tape on the threads and don’t over-torque. Snug is enough; the taper thread seals.
• Keep a spare rod on board. This kit’s two-pack makes that easy.

If you bounce between soft municipal water and mineral-heavy wells, expect the rod to last one to two seasons. Magnesium’s faster depletion is a feature, not a flaw—it’s proof it’s doing the sacrificial work you bought it for.

Value and trade-offs

The value proposition is strong: two magnesium rods, a dual-hex wrench, and an Incoloy element at a price that’s usually less than buying those items piecemeal. The spare alone justifies the bundle; it means you can inspect mid-trip and replace on the spot without hunting for parts.

Trade-offs to be aware of:
- Magnesium can deplete quickly in harsh water. If you’re burning through a rod in a single hard-water season, that’s normal—but factor it into your maintenance plan.
- This is Suburban-specific. If you have an Atwood/Dometic aluminum-tank heater, this kit isn’t the right fit.
- The kit didn’t include thread sealant tape. Not a big deal, but plan ahead.

What I’d improve

• Include a small roll of PTFE tape. It’s inexpensive and completes the “ready to use” feel.
• A brief quick-start card with the key steps (depressurize, flush, tape, tighten) would help first-time DIYers and reduce the risk of a messy removal.

Neither of these is a dealbreaker, and both are easy to address on your own.

The bottom line

As a maintenance-first option for Suburban RV water heaters, the Oneness 369 magnesium anode rod kit is hard to fault. It fits correctly, installs easily, provides aggressive corrosion protection across varied water sources, and the included wrench and Incoloy element elevate it from “just another anode” to a thoughtful RV maintenance bundle. The two-pack format aligns with real-world usage, where having a spare prevents procrastination and keeps tanks cleaner longer.

Recommendation: I recommend this kit to RV owners with Suburban water heaters who want reliable corrosion protection and a straightforward DIY maintenance experience. Choose it for its proper fit, quality magnesium construction, practical extras, and solid value. If you’re battling persistent sulfur odors, consider an aluminum/zinc anode instead—but for most Suburban setups, this magnesium two-pack is the right tool for the job.