DeWalt 24 in. Parallel Bar Clamp

First impressions and setup

I put the 24-inch parallel clamp straight to work on a pair of maple cabinet doors and a walnut panel glue-up. Out of the box it feels substantial: a steel bar with a smooth finish, broad jaws, and a chunky quad-lobe handle that invites a firm grip. The head slides freely along the bar and engages with a positive “bite” as soon as you start tightening. A small but welcome detail is the safety stop at the bar end; it prevents the head from skittering off the rail when you’re opening the clamp quickly or working at full spread.

The overall fit and finish are tidy. The bar is smooth, with no serrations or ridges. That’s a practical choice for woodworking because dried glue scrapes off cleanly, and the head glides without snagging when you’re adjusting for stock size. At 7.4 lb (3.3 kg), the clamp has real mass. On a crowded bench that weight helps keep assemblies from tipping while you line things up, but it also means you’ll feel it when you’re juggling a handful during a big glue-up.

Build and design

This is a traditional parallel-jaw format with a 24-inch capacity and a 3-3/4-inch throat depth. The jaws are wide enough (about 3-3/4 inches) to spread force over a good area and keep parts from telegraphing clamp lines. The jaw faces are smooth plastic rather than rubberized pads. They’re kind to most finished and raw surfaces if you clamp reasonably, but I still use thin cauls or painter’s tape on delicate veneers or softwoods.

The body is primarily plastic around the jaw assemblies, with the load running through the steel bar and screw. I didn’t see any bending or twisting under typical cabinet pressures, and the jaws tracked parallel even at higher torque. The screw threads are smooth with a predictable feel—no gritty or grabby spots, and minimal backlash when reversing.

Clamping performance

On force, it’s rated up to 1,500 lb (675 kg). In practice, you rarely need that kind of pressure for wood joinery, but it’s reassuring headroom. I torque clamps by feel and watch for squeeze-out; the clamp never slipped or crept, and it held square during overnight cures on both PVA and epoxy tests. Parallel-jaw clamps can sometimes toe in or rack if the head flexes—here, the contact stayed impressively flat and even across the jaw faces.

For panel glue-ups, two of these paired with cauls gave me flat, straight boards with minimal fuss. On cabinet cases, the jaws pressed face frames flush without kicking the work out of square. I intentionally clamped slightly off-center to see if the head would tilt; it resisted racking better than many F-style and pipe clamp setups and was on par with other premium parallel clamps I’ve used.

Ergonomics and control

The quad-lobe handle is a highlight. It’s a bi-material design that’s easy to torque with a bare hand, even with a bit of glue on your fingers. The extra contour gives you leverage without having to over-grip, and I never felt the need to reach for a cheater bar. The handle-to-jaw geometry also gives decent knuckle clearance when the clamp is lying flat on the bench.

The head’s sliding action is smooth and predictable. I was able to single-hand the clamp to rough position, then fine-tune pressure without the head skipping or backing off unexpectedly. When the screw takes over and the cam engages, it locks confidently—no partial grabs or “pops” you sometimes get as a head settles under load.

Accuracy and parallelism

A good parallel clamp lives or dies by how parallel its jaws stay under load. I checked the faces with a straightedge and feeler gauges while progressively tightening. The deviation I measured across the jaw faces was minimal and consistent left-to-right, which translated to glue-ups that didn’t spring open after release. In practical terms, I didn’t need to fuss with alternating clamp directions to counteract twist, and the assemblies came off the bench flat.

The 3-3/4-inch throat depth is enough for face frames, drawer boxes, and typical cabinet panels. If you often clamp deeper assemblies or need to reach past proud joinery, you’ll want to supplement with deeper-throat clamps, but for general cabinet and panel work, the depth is well chosen.

Durability and maintenance

The smooth steel bar cleans easily with a plastic scraper and a touch of mineral spirits. I like to wax clamp bars to slow glue adhesion; here, the smooth finish makes that optional. The only durability caution is the hard plastic jaw faces: if you drop the clamp onto concrete or a metal bench edge, the corners can ding or mushroom. You can sand them smooth again, but they’re not removable pads, so you can’t just swap in a fresh set. That’s the main trade-off in the jaw design.

The locking mechanism has stayed consistent after repeated tighten-loosen cycles, and the screw shows no burrs or flaking. The clamp ships with a one-year limited warranty, which is fine but not remarkable in this category. Store it with the screw backed off and the head away from dried glue, and it should hold up well.

Everyday use

I reached for this clamp most on panel jobs, cutting boards, and cabinet boxes where keeping faces flush and square matters. The weight gives it a planted feel when you stand it on the jaws as a third hand for alignment. The broad faces are gentle enough on pre-finished plywood if you use a scrap caul. In cramped glue-ups—think nested drawers—the relatively wide jaw can be a squeeze; in those scenarios, I mix in F-styles to get into tight corners.

The 24-inch capacity hits a sweet spot for casework, but it’s easy to run out of travel on wide tabletops. For that, you’ll need longer bars. If 24 inches covers your typical workload, these are a pleasure to operate and easy to keep clean.

What I’d change

• Replaceable jaw pads: The smooth plastic works well, but replaceable (or softer) pads would be more forgiving and easier to refresh after a drop.
• Weight: The mass is helpful on the bench, but carrying a half-dozen at once is a workout. A slightly lighter head would improve all-day handling.
• Accessories: A dedicated foot or standoff accessory would help with stacking clamps and maintaining parallel spacing during big glue-ups.

None of these are deal-breakers, but they’d elevate an already capable clamp.

Value and alternatives

In the premium parallel-clamp tier, the competition is strong. This one earns its place with smooth bar cleanup, confident head engagement, and a comfortable handle that makes it easy to apply meaningful force without fatigue. If replaceable pads are a must-have for you, that’s a reason to consider other options. If you prioritize clean sliding action and predictable parallel pressure, this clamp is right in the hunt.

Tips for best results

• Use light cauls: A strip of MDF or cork-faced cauls protects delicate surfaces and distributes pressure further.
• Keep the bar clean: Knock off glue drips before they fully cure, or use a plastic scraper—no need for aggressive solvents.
• Back off after cure: Release pressure and wipe threads to keep the screw smooth and consistent.
• Mind throat depth: Plan clamp placement so you’re using the jaw faces’ full area; it helps maintain parallelism.

Specs that matter

• Capacity: 24 in (≈635 mm)
• Throat depth: 3-3/4 in (≈100 mm)
• Claimed force: Up to 1,500 lb (≈675 kg)
• Bar: Smooth steel, 10 mm thick
• Weight: 7.4 lb (3.3 kg)
• Handle: Bi-material quad-lobe
• Safety stop: Yes

Recommendation

I recommend the 24-inch parallel clamp for woodworkers who want reliable parallel pressure, a comfortable handle, and easy cleanup in the 24-inch class. It shines on cabinet boxes, panels, and frame assemblies where flat, even clamping makes a visible difference. The main caveat is the non-replaceable plastic jaw faces—use cauls and treat the jaws kindly, and you’ll be rewarded with consistent, square results. If you need longer reach or softer, replaceable pads, look elsewhere; for everyday cabinet and panel work, this clamp is a strong, confidence-inspiring choice.