POROHOM 5-Piece Door Reinforcement Set for Jamb,Frame & Hinges Door Lock Security,Door Jamb Reinforcement Set,Anti Door Kick in Heavy Duty Striker Plate Kit,Tamper/Corrosion Proof Door Jamb Repair Kit

Why I installed it

Anyone who has lived with a builder-grade wood door frame knows the weak spot: a few short screws and some soft pine standing between a deadbolt and the outside world. I installed the POROHOM door jamb reinforcement kit on a 1970s exterior door that had a past split around the strike area and a little play on the hinge side. I wanted a sturdier, unobtrusive fix that would spread impact forces into the framing without a full jamb replacement. This kit promised exactly that, and after putting it in, I can say it meaningfully stiffens the door system without turning your entry into a science project.

What’s in the kit and how it’s built

The kit bundles five stamped-steel pieces: a 46-inch jamb plate with eight latch positions, two stout latch plates, and two L-shaped hinge-side plates. The steel measures 2 mm thick (about 0.08"), which is substantial for a surface-mount reinforcement—thicker than most strike plates and long enough to bridge the typically weak mortised area and reach solid framing. The powder-coated finish on mine (white) arrived clean, with de-burred edges that didn’t bite into trim or weatherstripping. The longer form factor is the real advantage: instead of localizing forces at two or four screws, you’re tying a section of jamb nearly four feet long back to studs with multiple long screws.

The jamb plate has knockouts covering lock center spacing from 4.5 to 21.5 inches. That means it works for a simple single-latch door or a handle-and-deadbolt combo (most common is 5.5" center-to-center). The elongated latch openings give you a little wiggle room to fine-tune alignment without grinding or filing. The two L-shaped hinge plates wrap the hinge-side wood where kick-ins commonly blow out the screws. Installed with longer fasteners, they turn those small hinge screws into anchors.

My only nitpick out of the box: the generic long screws included were soft. They’ll work in a pinch, but if you want to do this once and do it right, plan on using higher-quality 3" to 3.5" structural screws.

Install experience: straightforward and forgiving

You don’t need to pull the door or hinges to use this kit. I set aside about an hour and a half, including paint touch-up.

Tools I used:
- Drill/driver and impact driver
- 1/8" and 3/32" pilot bits
- Self-centering bit for hinge screws (optional but helpful)
- Chisel and utility knife
- Pencil and painter’s tape
- A handful of 3" to 3.5" structural screws (#8–#10)

Prep matters. I first checked that the door was plumb and latching correctly. Reinforcement will not fix a badly out-of-square jamb by itself, and you don’t want to lock in a misalignment.

Step-by-step, it went like this:
1. Choose the knockouts: I marked my lock spacing, then popped out the two appropriate knockouts in the 46" plate with pliers and a light tap.
2. Dry fit: I held the plate over the strike area and checked that it tucked neatly under the stop without shifting the weatherstripping. On my door, the stop had enough flex that I didn’t need to notch anything. If your stop is rigid or paint-bound, score the paint line with a knife first to avoid chipping.
3. Locate studs and predrill: I found the stud line behind the jamb (typically just behind the latch area and at intervals above/below), then predrilled through the jamb plate holes into wood. Long screws only help if they grab framing, not just the jamb.
4. Fasten the jamb plate: Working top and bottom and moving inward, I drove long screws, frequently closing the door to confirm that latches were still centered and throwing cleanly. The elongated latch windows made this forgiving.
5. Install latch plates: These sit over the latch/deadbolt openings and keep the bolt from chewing into wood. I aligned them so the deadbolt still extended fully without dragging.
6. Hinge plates: Without removing the door, I backed out one hinge screw at a time, slipped the L-plate in place, and replaced the short screws with 3" screws through both hinge leaf and reinforcement into framing. A self-centering bit helped keep the screws true.

One note on finishing: the white plate blended with my painted jamb well enough that I didn’t need to paint, but a bead of caulk along the edges made it look built-in and sealed any tiny gaps.

Total time: just over an hour solo, taking my time to pilot holes and avoid splitting. A pro who’s done a few could do it in half that.

Fit, alignment, and everyday use

With the reinforcement installed, the door’s “feel” changed immediately. The latch engaged more crisply, there was less flex when I leaned into the slab, and the hinge side felt anchored. I did a few firm body checks (the kind you’d use testing a door at a rental) and watched for movement along the stops—everything stayed put, and the deadbolt engaged positively without visible crush into the wood.

Two practical bonuses:
- Wind resistance: On a stormy day, previously I’d get a little rattle at the strike. That disappeared. The long plate ties the stop area together, so gusts are less likely to chatter the latch.
- Quieting: There’s a subtle reduction in creak under load. Stiffening the hinge side with longer screws and the L-plates removes some of the micro-movement that causes noise.

Clearances: The 2 mm thickness didn’t interfere with my weatherstripping. If yours is tight, you can slightly adjust the strike orientation or weatherstripping compression to regain an even seal.

Where it falls short

No product is perfect, and a few limitations are worth calling out:
- Screws: As mentioned, the included long screws are serviceable but soft. Substitute quality structural screws (GRK/Spax or similar) to get the most out of the reinforcement—and predrill.
- Trim constraints: On doors with very narrow or ornate casing, the 46" plate may crowd your aesthetics. You can cut the plate to length with a hacksaw if needed, but measure twice to preserve the hole layout.
- Not a cure-all: This won’t compensate for a rotten jamb, a delaminating slab, or a poorly installed door. If your framing isn’t sound, reinforce the structure first.
- Color and finish: Mine came in white. If you want a black look, check availability; otherwise, scuff and paint to match.

None of these are deal-breakers, but they’re worth planning for so you don’t lose time mid-install.

Tips to get the most from it

• Use long, high-quality screws throughout—3" minimum into studs on both strike and hinge sides.
• Pilot every hole. Old jambs split easily, and pilot holes give you straighter, stronger fastener engagement.
• Confirm deadbolt throw before you fully tighten. A bolt that doesn’t fully extend is weaker than you think.
• Score paint lines at the stop to avoid chipping when you snug the plate.
• If your latch is now slightly high/low, take advantage of the elongated slots before reaching for a file.

Value and how it compares

Reinforcement solutions generally come in three flavors: short strike upgrades (cheap, minimal benefit), piecemeal kits (hinge or strike only), and full-length jamb plates with hinge-side reinforcement. This kit sits in the third category, which is where the meaningful gains live. The 46" plate spreads loads into solid wood, and the hinge-side L-plates close the loop. In practice, that combination is what turns a kick-in from “find the weak screw” into “distribute force over many fasteners and inches of steel.” Without going into price specifics, it’s a budget-friendly way to reach that level of reinforcement, and it doesn’t require specialized tools or carpentry.

Who it’s for

• Homeowners with older wood frames who want a measurable increase in forced-entry resistance.
• Landlords and property managers repairing split jambs and looking to prevent repeat failures.
• DIYers comfortable with a drill who want a one-afternoon project with tangible payoff.
• Anyone in a high-wind area experiencing latch chatter or stop damage.

If you’re already planning a full door and jamb replacement, integrate reinforcement at that time. If you’re working with a sound door and want more security without major carpentry, this is right in the sweet spot.

Recommendation

I recommend the POROHOM door jamb reinforcement kit. It’s thoughtfully designed—long where it needs to be, thick enough to matter, and compatible with common lock spacings—while remaining an approachable DIY install. The improvement in stiffness and latch engagement was obvious, and tying both strike and hinge sides back to framing is the correct engineering approach for kick-in resistance.

Swap in better long screws, take your time on alignment, and you’ll end up with a cleaner, stronger door that looks stock and holds up under abuse. For the cost and effort, it’s one of the highest-impact security upgrades you can make to a standard wood-framed door.