POROHOM 5-Piece Door Reinforcement Set for Jamb,Frame & Hinges Door Lock Security,Door Jamb Reinforcement Set,Anti Door Kick in Heavy Duty Striker Plate Kit,Tamper/Corrosion Proof Door Jamb Repair Kit

Why I installed the POROHOM reinforcement kit

I work on plenty of doors that look fine on the surface but hide a weak point: the wood jamb. A deadbolt only works as well as the structure it anchors to, and most jambs are just soft wood held by shallow screws. I put the POROHOM reinforcement kit on an older exterior door that had a split strike area from a previous impact. I wanted a solution that would both repair the damage and actually upgrade the frame. This kit promised both, with a full-length strike plate, beefier latch plates, and hinge-side reinforcement—all without removing the door.

What’s in the box and first impressions

The kit is simple and focused:
- A 46-inch strike plate that spans the vulnerable section of the jamb
- Two latch plates to reinforce the lock and deadbolt pockets
- Two L-shaped hinge plates for the hinge side
- A bundle of long screws

The steel is 2 mm thick and powder-coated black. The finish is even and took handling well without scuffing. Edges were smoothed enough that I didn’t catch a burr during install. The strike plate is pre-punched with multiple latch cutouts, plus knockout holes to accommodate different lock spacings (from 4.5 to 21.5 inches center-to-center). If you’ve got the common 5.5-inch spacing between knob and deadbolt, it lines up without fuss.

One important note: the included screws were a mixed bag. Length and count were adequate, but the metallurgy and drive quality felt mediocre. If you’re serious about security, I’d recommend upgrading to high-quality 3–3.5 inch structural screws or case-hardened security screws for the strike and hinge plates.

Installation experience

You don’t need to pull the door off the hinges, which is a big plus. Here’s how my install went on a standard 36-inch exterior wood door with wood jambs:

1. Prep and assess: I removed the original strike plate and faceplates, cleaned up the splintered wood around the old strike, and filled deep gouges with wood epoxy. Once cured, I sanded flush.

2. Positioning: I dry-fit the 46-inch plate to align the latch and deadbolt cutouts with the hardware. The multiple openings give you wiggle room, but careful alignment here saves you time later.

3. Mortising: The plate will add thickness on the jamb face. On my door, I chiseled a shallow mortise (about the thickness of the plate) so the plate sat nearly flush with the casing. If you skip mortising, you’ll likely compress weatherstripping or affect the reveal. A trim router with a straight bit speeds this up if you’ve got one.

4. Drilling and fastening: I pre-drilled pilot holes into the jamb and through into the framing. Hit the studs—security comes from transferring load into the structure, not just the jamb. I used upgraded 3.5-inch structural screws for the main strike plate holes. After snugging everything down, I checked door operation and latch engagement.

5. Latch and hinge plates: I mortised the two latch plates and installed them with long screws angled into the stud. On the hinge side, the L-shaped plates sat behind the hinges and bite into the stud through the hinge area. I replaced the short hinge screws with 3-inch screws, which I consider mandatory on any exterior door.

Total time was about 75 minutes, including epoxy work. If your jamb is undamaged and you skip the mortise, you could be done in 45 minutes with basic tools. Must-haves: drill/driver, sharp chisel, tape, combination square, and a countersink or 3/32-inch bit for pilot holes.

Fit, finish, and everyday impact

Once installed, the plate is visible—there’s no way around that with a 46-inch strip of steel. On a black door or dark trim, the black powder coat blends reasonably well; on white trim it reads as an intentional security plate. The finish is clean and doesn’t look out of place on a functional entryway, but it’s not a decorative item. In my case, the plate covered the old damage neatly and left a tidy, uniform look.

Operationally, the door closes with a more positive “thunk.” That’s the rigidity you want—the jamb no longer flexes under latch pressure. There’s also noticeably less play when pushing on the door from the outside. On windy days, the door felt more anchored, which is a nice side benefit.

Clearance matters. The extra thickness at the strike can press into weatherstripping; if so, adjust the latch strike positioning, mortise a bit deeper, or slightly soften the weatherstrip. Once tuned, my door latched cleanly with no binding.

How it actually strengthens the door

There are three critical upgrades happening here:

• The long strike plate spreads force across a much larger section of the jamb and, more importantly, pushes that force into the framing studs through long screws. That’s what prevents a kick from shearing out the thin jamb.

• The two latch plates prevent the deadbolt from crushing into soft wood during an impact. They’re essentially armor for the pocket area.

• The L-shaped hinge plates stiffen the hinge side. Reinforcing the strike without addressing hinges is incomplete—attackers can kick at the hinge line too. This kit closes that gap.

The steel thickness (2 mm) is appropriate: stout enough to resist deformation under a heavy hit while thin enough to install with standard woodworking tools.

Compatibility notes

• Works best on wood jambs. For metal jambs, this is not the right product.
• Standard residential lock spacing (5.5 inches center-to-center) is an easy fit. If you’ve got wider spacing, the knockouts give options, but you’ll need to punch them cleanly and file edges.
• Ornate trim or very tight reveals around the strike may require more careful mortising or minor trim modifications.
• If your door clearance is already minimal, budget time for fine-tuning the strike depth and weatherstrip compression.

Durability and maintenance

The powder coat seems durable and should resist corrosion in most climates. On coastal installs or high-humidity environments, I’d still recommend periodic inspection, especially around screw heads. If you’re in a salt-air area, consider a light wipe of corrosion inhibitor on exposed fasteners. The kit itself is maintenance-free beyond occasional cleaning.

What I’d change

• Screws: The included long screws work in a pinch, but I’d prefer high-grade structural or security fasteners out of the box. Upgrading is inexpensive and improves both installation feel and long-term holding power.

• Instructions: The kit is straightforward, but a more detailed guide with diagrams for lock spacing options, hinge plate placement, and recommended pilot hole sizes would help first-timers.

• Color options: Black is versatile; a white option is offered on some listings. More finish choices would help the plate disappear on different trims.

Who it’s for

• Homeowners with a standard wood-framed exterior door who want a real security upgrade without replacing the door.
• Anyone repairing a split jamb or damaged strike area who also wants to harden the frame.
• Renters in houses (with permission) or landlords looking for a practical, low-visibility security improvement between tenants.

Who should look elsewhere:
- Properties with metal jambs or commercial hollow metal frames.
- High-design entryways where visible reinforcement would be unwelcome unless color-matched.
- Doors with nonstandard hardware layouts that exceed the knockout range.

Tips to get the most out of it

• Use quality 3–3.5 inch screws and hit the studs. That’s 80% of the security benefit.
• Mortise the strike plate area for a cleaner look and better door clearance.
• Replace at least one screw in each hinge with a 3-inch screw into the stud, even if you skip the hinge plates (though I recommend using them).
• Test latch alignment with the plate taped in place before drilling.
• If you need to open a knockout, support the plate on wood, use a sharp cold chisel or step drill, and file edges smooth to protect the finish and your weatherstripping.

The bottom line

The POROHOM reinforcement kit does exactly what it claims: it turns a soft, failure-prone section of a door frame into something that spreads impact across the structure. Installation is approachable for a handy homeowner, and the performance improvement is immediate and obvious. It’s not flashy, and it won’t make your front entry prettier, but it will make it stronger.

Recommendation: I recommend this kit for most wood-framed exterior doors. It’s a cost-effective, high-impact upgrade that improves both security and durability, especially on doors that have seen damage or sit in exposed, windy locations. Upgrade the screws, take your time on alignment and mortising, and you’ll end up with a cleaner installation and a dramatically tougher door.