SECURITYMAN Door Reinforcement Kit | Door Jamb Protector | Door Frame Repair Kit |(15GA Thick Steel) Fort Your Home with Anti Kick Door Security with Heavy Duty Striker Plate Kit

Why I installed a reinforcement kit in the first place

I’ve upgraded plenty of smart locks and cameras, but the weak point on most homes is still the wooden door frame. A solid deadbolt doesn’t help much if the latch and jamb splinter under a kick. That’s what led me to the SecurityMan reinforcement kit—a set of 15‑gauge steel plates and long screws intended to tie the lock side, hinges, and jamb into the wall framing. I installed it on a standard inswing front door with a wooden frame to see how much real strength—and hassle—it adds.

What’s in the box and first impressions

The kit includes:
- A heavy-duty strike/lock side plate that spans well beyond a typical strike plate
- Multiple hinge-side reinforcement plates
- Two U-shaped wraps designed to reinforce the door edge around the deadbolt/latch
- A pile of extra-long, tamper-resistant screws
- Instructions with diagrams

The steel is legitimately thick for a consumer kit (15 gauge is roughly 1.9 mm). All components are powder coated, which helps them look tidy and resist rust. Edges were clean with no burrs, and hole alignment on my set was accurate. The screws are long—intended to catch the wall stud behind the jamb—so you get more than just cosmetic metal: you’re tying the door system into the structure.

Planning and compatibility: check your gaps

Before reaching for a drill, I checked the door “reveal” (the gap between the door and the frame) with a folded business card. This kit assumes you have a reasonably generous, consistent gap, because you’re adding metal on both the jamb and, if you choose, the door edge. If your door is very tight, you may need to:
- Skip the U-wraps on the door edge (you still get substantial benefit from the jamb and hinge plates).
- Slightly chisel/mortise areas of the jamb to flush-fit plates.
- Plane the door edge or adjust hinges to recover clearance.

A quick note on door type: this is designed for inswing, residential wood-frame doors. If you have a metal frame or an outswing configuration, you’ll have fitment and benefit limitations.

Installation: 30 minutes is possible, but plan for more

With a power drill, a sharp set of bits, and a chisel, I spent about an hour doing a careful, clean install. Here’s how it went.

1) Lock side plate (the big win)
- I removed the original strike plate and marked the new plate’s position so the deadbolt would throw cleanly into the reinforced opening.
- I had to deepen the mortise slightly so the new plate sat flush and didn’t pinch the door when closed.
- I predrilled all holes to the screw’s minor diameter. This step matters; these long screws are going deep into studs and can shear if you drive them bluntly.
- I drove the long screws with a low-torque setting, then snugged by hand. No splitting, no squeaks.

2) Hinge-side plates
- I removed one hinge screw at a time, replacing short factory screws with the long ones into the framing.
- The hinge plates themselves sit over the hinge leaf area; I again mortised a touch to keep things flush.
- After each plate, I test-closed the door to verify alignment wasn’t drifting.

3) Door-edge wraps (optional)
- The U-shaped wraps are meant to reinforce the door’s edge around the latch and deadbolt. They’re useful if your door slab is chewed up or you want the “belt and suspenders” approach.
- On my door, the latch-side wrap fit fine, but the deadbolt wrap made the door too snug against the weatherstripping. I opted to install the latch wrap and leave the deadbolt wrap off. This is the sort of practical compromise you should be prepared to make based on your specific door.

Tips that saved me time:
- Predrill every long screw. Use wax or a dab of soap on screw threads if your wood is dense.
- Avoid hammer drills or high-torque impacts for final seating—hand snugging reduces the chance of shearing a screw.
- Test the deadbolt throw with the door open and closed before you commit the plate; small misalignments translate to sticky locks later.

All told, the main plate and hinge reinforcement provide the bulk of the security benefit. The wraps are a nice add-on if your gap allows it.

Fit, finish, and everyday use

Once installed, the components mostly disappear visually if you match them to your hardware color. The powder coat is smooth and consistent. My door closed normally after minor mortising, and the deadbolt throw remained clean. There was no new rubbing against the weatherstripping on the lock side. On the hinge side, the reinforcements are discreet once the door is closed.

If you’re particular about aesthetics, take your time chiseling to keep plates flush with the jamb surface; even a millimeter of proud hardware can translate to a rub point.

Performance: noticeably stronger

There’s no perfectly safe way to “kick test” a finished residential door, but I did perform a few controlled forcible-closure tests and some shoulder checks. The difference was obvious. Instead of the hollow flex you get from a plain wooden jamb, the door felt tied into the wall. There was far less deflection around the strike area, and the hinges felt more anchored—no creaks, no wiggle. In practical terms, this raises the effort and noise required to breach the door substantially, which is the point: make quick forced entry much harder.

It also doubles as a repair solution. If your frame has past damage around the strike or hinge screws no longer bite, these long screws and large plates bridge weak wood and sink into the stud, giving new life to a tired jamb.

Durability and maintenance

Steel plates aren’t moving parts, so the main durability factor is the screws staying anchored. Because the screws are long and bite into the stud, they should hold up well. The powder coat should resist fingerprints and surface rust in typical indoor environments. If you live near the coast or have a door with frequent condensation, wipe-downs and the occasional touch-up paint on screw heads aren’t a bad idea.

What I liked

• Meaningful reinforcement where it matters: strike and hinges
• Thick, powder-coated steel that feels purpose-built rather than decorative
• Long screws that reach framing and actually stiffen the system
• Modular approach: you can omit door-edge wraps if you have tight reveals
• Clear diagrams and a logical installation sequence

What could be better

• Screw toughness: the provided long screws are adequate, but in very hard wood or if driven aggressively, they can shear. Predrill and go slow, or substitute premium structural wood screws if you run into trouble.
• Tight-tolerance doors: if your door has minimal reveal, expect chiseling, planing, or skipping certain plates. The kit could include more guidance on evaluating and adjusting reveals.
• The door-edge wraps: helpful for damaged doors, but they’ll challenge weatherstripping clearance on snug doors. Consider them optional, not mandatory.

Who this is for

• Homeowners with wood-jamb, inswing exterior doors who want a tangible security upgrade without replacing the entire frame
• Landlords or DIYers repairing chewed-up strike areas or loose hinges
• Anyone layering physical security with existing locks and alarms

Who should look elsewhere:
- Homes with metal frames or outswing commercial-style doors
- Doors with extremely tight reveals where modification isn’t possible or desired

Practical installation checklist

• Measure your reveal: a business card should pass easily along the lock side and hinge side.
• Gather tools: drill/driver, sharp bits, chisel, utility knife, painter’s tape, pencil, and a hand screwdriver for final snugging.
• Predrill every long screw; start straight and go slow.
• Test-fit plates before driving any long screw home.
• After each step, close the door and test latch/bolt operation.

Recommendation

I recommend the SecurityMan reinforcement kit for most wood-framed, inswing exterior doors. It adds real structural strength at the two points most likely to fail—the strike and the hinges—using thick steel and long screws that tie into the framing. Installation is approachable for a careful DIYer with basic tools, though tight doors may require chiseling or skipping the door-edge wraps. If you predrill and drive screws thoughtfully, the result is a door that feels markedly more solid and is substantially harder to kick in. For the cost and effort, it’s one of the most effective door security upgrades you can make.