DeWalt 20 oz Rip Claw Nailing Hammer

First impressions and setup

I swapped my beat-up beater for the 20‑oz DeWalt rip‑claw and carried it for a couple of weeks through punch-list framing, a small deck extension, and some trim repair. Out of the box, it’s a straightforward, one‑piece steel hammer with a smooth, shield‑shaped face, a straight (rip) claw, and a tacky, tear‑resistant grip. On paper, it’s a generalist: part framing hammer, part finish hammer, with a few modern conveniences that actually matter on site.

Two early observations stood out. First, the balance is legitimately good. The head feels seated where it should be, and the swing doesn’t fight you. Second, the finish can vary. The first unit I picked up had a small high spot on the face and a claw that looked slightly off‑center. I exchanged it for another sitting next to it on the rack; the second one was true and cleanly machined. If you’re buying in person, it’s worth scanning faces and claws for symmetry before heading to checkout.

Design and build

• One‑piece steel: The monolithic construction is about durability and leverage. There’s no joint to loosen and no handle to separate. The tradeoff is vibration—steel transmits shock more than hickory or fiberglass—but the grip here does meaningful work to soften the blow.

• Smooth, shield‑shaped face: The face isn’t milled; it’s smooth and ever so slightly crowned, and the “shield” outline tapers at the sides. In practice, that shape makes toe‑nailing less awkward because you can see around the corners of the face and get closer to inside corners without scuffing adjacent material.

• Rip claw: Straight claws are still the most versatile for remodelers. They get behind trim, pop staples, and split apart light framing without the shovel effect you get from a curved claw. The geometry here is thin enough to slip under finish nails but stout enough to pry framing nails without feeling springy.

• Grip: The over‑molded handle is grippy without being gummy. Sweat, sawdust, and light rain didn’t turn it into a bar of soap, and it didn’t start peeling after a couple of weeks of daily use. It’s a bit firmer than some rubbery handles, which I prefer for control.

Dimensional feel: At roughly 14 inches overall, it’s shorter than a long‑handle framer, which makes it easier to maneuver in interior work and inside stud bays. The 20‑oz head, combined with that length, hits a sweet spot for mixed tasks.

Swing, power, and accuracy

The headline here is control. With a 16d sinker into SPF, I was consistently flush in two firm swings and buried with a third when I needed it. Toe‑nailing 10d nails felt predictable; the face shape gives you a bit more visual reference at steep angles and reduces glancing blows. On hardwood blocking (white oak), it took more persuasion, as expected, but the hammer stayed on line.

Compared to a 24–28 oz framer, you give up some one‑hit authority, but you also save your elbow after a long day. Compared to a 16‑oz finish hammer, you gain noticeable drive without sacrificing placement. If your day mixes layout, light framing, demolition, and occasional finish work, this weight class is right where it should be.

Magnetic nail starter: not a gimmick

The magnetic nail slot is cut into the top of the head and actually works. It holds 8d through 16d nails securely enough to one‑hand start overhead or when your other hand is steadying a ladder. It’s especially handy for toe‑starts in awkward corners. It’s not a substitute for a third hand on a windy day, but it’s not a novelty either; I used it more than I expected.

Tip: Keep the face square to the work on your first tap when using the starter; the smooth face can skate if you’re casual.

Pulling and demolition

DeWalt’s “Tri‑Pull” approach means you have three ways to remove fasteners: the main claw, a side puller integrated into the head, and the hammer face edges that help grab staples and brads. In practice:

• Side puller: This is the star. It gives you strong, low‑profile leverage for nails that are proud or flush, especially near corners where the main claw would mar the work. It also reduces wrist rotation, which is a small mercy late in the day.

• Main claw: The taper slips under finish heads better than many framers. On framing nails, full‑length pulls felt controlled; nothing bent, and the claw tips stayed sharp.

• Staples and brads: The thin edge near the side puller grabbed construction staples well. For tiny brads, I still reach for pliers to avoid surface damage, but the hammer will do it in a pinch.

Comfort and shock

Steel‑handled hammers can be unforgiving. Here, the grip takes the edge off. After driving dozens of nails into dense stock, I noticed less sting than I expected. The grip has just enough give to dampen, but the overall feel remains direct; you still know exactly where the head is in space. If you’re sensitive to elbow pain and swing all day, a hickory‑handled hammer might be gentler, but for a one‑piece steel tool, this is a comfortable ride.

Fit and finish

Here’s the caveat. Not every sample is finished equally. On my first unit, the face had a minor hump and the claw grind wasn’t symmetrical. The replacement was dead flat on the face, cleanly ground, and perfectly aligned. Once you get a good one, there’s nothing to complain about—no flashing on the grip, no burrs on the pullers, and the magnet is well seated. But that variability means I recommend inspecting in person or buying from a seller with easy exchanges.

After two weeks, the face showed expected micro‑scuffs but no mushrooming or chips. The grip didn’t tear or glaze, and the side puller edges remained crisp.

Who this hammer suits

• Remodelers and general carpenters who bounce between framing, light demo, and finish duties. The smooth face and side puller keep surfaces clean, and the weight drives efficiently without being punishing.

• DIYers who want one hammer to do almost everything. It’s approachable, balanced, and the magnetic starter lowers the intimidation factor for ladder and overhead work.

• Dedicated framers swinging full time might prefer a longer handle and a milled face for maximum bite in wet or dirty conditions, but this still holds its own on studs and plates.

What I liked

• Excellent balance and head control; predictable arc and face placement
• Side puller is genuinely useful and reduces damage around finished surfaces
• Magnetic nail starter works with common nail sizes and saves time overhead
• Grip stays tacky in sweat and dust; comfortable without feeling mushy
• Smooth shield‑face is friendly to trim and toe‑nailing in tight corners
• One‑piece steel inspires confidence and should survive years of abuse

What I’d change

• Quality control needs tightening. Check the face for flatness and claw alignment before you buy.
• The smooth face can skate on coated nails if you’re sloppy with your first strike; a light micro‑texture option would be welcome.
• Steel handle vibration is well managed but still present. A touch more damping in the grip wouldn’t hurt.

Bottom line and recommendation

After living with the 20‑oz DeWalt rip‑claw, I trust it. It’s a balanced, versatile hammer that handles the mixed reality of most jobsites: drive a string of 16ds, pull a stubborn finish nail near a casing, toe‑nail a joist hanger ledger, then tap in a piece of shoe. The magnetic starter and side puller aren’t marketing fluff; they make real tasks easier. The grip holds up and keeps the tool in your hand when conditions get sweaty or dusty.

The one caution is consistency. I encountered meaningful variation between units, and you deserve a face that’s flat and a claw that’s centered. Inspect before you buy, or ensure you can exchange it if the finish is off.

Would I recommend it? Yes. For anyone who wants a single hammer that covers framing‑light through finish‑adjacent tasks with good manners and real pulling capability, this is a strong choice. It’s comfortable, drives with authority without wearing you out, and the features add speed without getting in the way. As long as you land a well‑finished sample, it’s a hammer you’ll reach for first.