DWIL Tile Paint, Tub and Tile Refinishing Kit with Tools, Water-based Bathtub Paint - Low Odor, Easy to Use, 25-30sq.ft, 16.5oz, Semi-Gloss White

Why I tried this kit

I had a perfectly functional, very tired-looking tub/shower setup—beige with stubborn mineral staining—that was dragging the whole bathroom down. Replacing it wasn’t in the budget, and I didn’t want the fumes and mess of a solvent-based refinishing system. That’s what pushed me to try the DWIL tub and tile kit, a water-based acrylic, semi-gloss refinisher that promises low odor, easy cleanup, and a seven-day full cure. My goal was a clean, bright white finish that could stand up to daily showers without turning the bathroom into a worksite.

What’s in the box and what it works on

The kit arrives with tools for application and surface prep (you’ll still want a small paint tray). The paint itself is a 16.5 oz bottle of water-based acrylic in semi-gloss white; DWIL also offers black, light/dark gray, and vanilla white. The company rates one bottle for roughly 25–30 square feet per coat. That’s enough for a small vanity top or a portion of a tub/surround, but a standard 60-inch tub interior plus apron typically needs more than one bottle, especially at two to three coats.

Compatibility matters here. This acrylic sticks well to tile, ceramic, glass, acrylic, wood, and real marble, and it’s acceptable for porcelain-enameled cast iron tubs. It is not for bare metal, regular (non-enameled) iron, artificial marble, or any powdery/peeling substrate. If your surface is chalky, flaking, or flexes underfoot, don’t expect lasting results without addressing that first.

Prep: the difference between “okay” and “great”

With any refinishing product, prep is the make-or-break step, and that’s especially true for water-based coatings. Here’s the workflow that produced the best results for me:

• Remove caulk around the tub edges and fixtures.
• Degrease thoroughly. I used a bathroom cleaner first, then a dedicated degreaser, and rinsed until water beaded evenly.
• Mechanically abrade glossy areas. A light but uniform scuff gives the acrylic something to bite into.
• Rinse again and let the surface dry completely; I ran a fan to speed things along.
• Mask aggressively. I used painter’s tape and plastic sheeting to protect floors, walls, and fixtures.

If you’re trying to cover old, peeling refinish layers, get as much of that material off as you can. Any loose substrate will telegraph through—and worse, it can lift underneath the new coating.

Application and coverage in practice

The paint has the right viscosity for a foam roller and an angled brush for edges. It levels better than I expected for a water-based acrylic, but technique matters:

• Decant into a tray and work in manageable sections.
• Load the roller lightly; avoid pushing hard, which introduces bubbles.
• Lay off each section in one direction to minimize stipple.
• Don’t overwork areas once they start to tack.

On a beige tub, I needed three coats for full, even coverage. Two coats looked good in some angles but still showed a hint of the original tone and a couple of ghosted stains. The third coat locked in a uniform semi-gloss, clean white. With the recommended 25–30 sq. ft. per coat, plan your quantity accordingly: interiors of standard tubs often need 1.5 to 2 bottles for two to three coats.

Dry times were predictable. The surface was tack-free within a couple of hours, suitable for light touch the next day, and I held off any water exposure until after 48 hours. The manufacturer’s seven-day full cure is real—wait the full week before resuming normal use.

Odor, ventilation, and cleanup

Low odor is a meaningful differentiator here. There’s a faint latex-like smell during application, but nothing like the punch of solvent or two-part epoxies. With a window cracked and the fan on, it was comfortable to work in the bathroom without a respirator. Cleanup is as straightforward as the label suggests: water and a bit of soap took care of drips, tools, and hands. If you’ve ever dealt with solvent-based cleanup after a long day, that alone feels like a luxury.

Finish quality

Semi-gloss was a good choice for a wet area. It looks clean and reflective without crossing into mirror-gloss, which can highlight flaws. After the third coat, the finish was even, with minimal roller texture. Edges brushed out cleanly. The white reads as a neutral, bathroom-friendly white—neither blue nor creamy.

One caveat: a water-based acrylic won’t hide substrate flaws the way a thicker 2-part epoxy might. Chips, deep scratches, and pits should be filled and sanded smooth ahead of time. The coating is a film, not a filler.

Durability after use

After six weeks of daily showers, the finish is holding up well on tile and the tub walls. The floor of the tub, as expected, is the stress test. I avoided suction-cup mats and stuck to a non-slip sticker system placed after full cure. I also switched to non-abrasive cleaners (mild bathroom cleaner, soft sponge). Under those conditions, the coating has stayed intact—no chalking, no peeling at the drain edge, and no staining.

A few practical observations:

• The coating resists casual scratches from plastic shampoo bottles and fingernails.
• A dropped metal razor can nick the surface. Small nicks are fixable—scuff and spot coat—but prevention is better.
• Standing water around the drain is the area to watch. Proper prep and caulk replacement there make a difference.

As with any water-based refinish, longevity is tied to prep, cure time, and ongoing care. If you need commercial-grade abuse resistance, a pro reglaze or a two-part system will outlast this. For residential use with sensible maintenance, it’s a solid performer.

Limitations and gotchas

• Quantity: One bottle per coat for a small project is accurate, but most tubs need multiple coats and, therefore, multiple bottles.
• Substrate constraints: Not for bare metal or regular iron tubs. If you’re not sure whether your tub is porcelain-enameled cast iron, test or consult before starting.
• Cure patience: You’ll be without a tub for a week if you want the best result. Plan accordingly.
• Film build: It’s a thin, hard film. Expect to do three coats over dark or stained surfaces.

Tips that made a difference

• Warm the room and the product. Around 70–75°F helps leveling.
• De-dust right before you paint. A tack cloth or damp microfiber reduces specks.
• Feather edges between coats to avoid ridges at masking lines.
• Replace caulk after the final coat cures to avoid trapping moisture.
• Avoid suction-cup bath mats; they can cause localized adhesion failure.

Value

Materials cost came in well under a replacement or professional reglaze, even buying two bottles. The low odor and water cleanup reduced project friction significantly. Time is your bigger investment: prep plus three coats over multiple days, plus a seven-day cure, means this is a plan-ahead weekend-and-week project, not an afternoon flip.

Who it’s for

• DIYers refreshing serviceable but cosmetically tired tubs, tile, and surrounds.
• Households that need low odor and easy cleanup.
• Projects where good prep is feasible and a week-long cure is acceptable.

Who should look elsewhere:

• Surfaces with unstable, peeling, or flexible substrates.
• Bare metal or regular iron tubs.
• Heavy-use short-term rentals that see aggressive cleaning; consider a pro reglaze.

Recommendation

I recommend the DWIL kit for homeowners who want an affordable, low-odor way to revive a tub or tile surface and who are willing to invest in meticulous prep and respect the seven-day cure. The finish looks crisp, the application is straightforward, and the cleanup is refreshingly simple. It isn’t a miracle coat for failing substrates or a substitute for pro-grade epoxy durability, but within its lane—cosmetic renewal on compatible, well-prepped surfaces—it performs reliably and looks great. If that matches your project and timeline, this kit is an easy yes.