Ankita Specialty Tub and Tile Paint, High-Gloss White Tub Paint for Bathtub, Quick-Dry Porcelain paint for Scratches & Chips on Porcelain, Acrylic, Enamel, Cast Iron, Bathtubs, Tiles, Sinks and Toilets

A small bottle that solves big eyesores

In my house, the bathrooms tell their age mostly through little scars: a chip on a porcelain sink, a dark crescent at the tub’s edge where glaze wore thin, a hairline mark across a tile that always caught my eye. I tested Ankita’s tub and tile touch-up paint to see if a single, compact bottle could make those flaws disappear. It won’t replace a full refinish—but for targeted repairs, it punches above its weight.

What it is and what it isn’t

This is a 1 fl oz, water-based acrylic touch-up paint in high-gloss white designed for porcelain, enamel, acrylic, fiberglass, and cast iron surfaces. It’s meant for small chips, scratches, pinholes, and thin hairline imperfections, not structural cracks or broad resurfacing. Think dab-and-blend, not roll-and-coat.

The gloss level is high, which helps it visually integrate with glazed finishes. The formula is low-odor, cleans up with water before it cures, and is rated heat resistant well beyond typical bath temperatures. In practical terms, it stood up fine to hot tap water and a steamy bathroom.

Setup and application

I prepped repairs on three surfaces: a chipped porcelain sink lip, worn tub edge at the tile boundary, and a marked ceramic tile near a faucet. Here’s the process that produced the cleanest results:

• Degrease thoroughly. I used a non-abrasive cleaner followed by isopropyl alcohol. Any soap film or oils will show up as poor adhesion.
• Feather the edges. For chips, I lightly sanded with 600–800 grit to smooth ridges and create a key for the paint.
• Mask if needed. For the tub/tile junction, I ran painter’s tape to keep lines tidy.
• Stir gently. I avoid shaking to reduce bubbles; a quick stir with a toothpick is enough.
• Apply thin coats. A light touch is crucial—think multiple passes rather than trying to cover in one go. I let each pass reach touch-dry before layering more.
• Optional: micro-sand between coats. A soft rub with 1000–1500 grit can knock down minor brush marks.

The included built-in brush is convenient but not flawless. On one bottle, the brush nub separated from the cap during use, which made control awkward until I switched to a small artist’s brush. The brush also holds more paint than you need for tiny defects, so offloading excess on the bottle neck or a palette helps avoid ridges.

One practical note: after finishing, I waited a full day before exposing the repairs to running water. That extra cure time pays dividends in durability.

Performance and finish quality

Coverage is surprisingly strong for a water-based touch-up. On the porcelain chip, two light coats made the dark substrate disappear. The tile mark took a single pass. The tub edge—an area that sees frequent splashes—benefited from three very thin layers, feathered out beyond the worn spot to prevent a visible halo.

The dried finish is genuinely glossy. Under normal bathroom light, the repairs blend well. Under raking light, you may notice where the gloss transitions, which is typical for spot repairs. A final feathered pass—thinned slightly by wiping the brush on a damp paper towel—helped me soften transitions and minimize witness lines.

Brush marks are controllable with technique. Load sparingly, keep strokes in the same direction as the original glaze, and avoid revisiting the same spot while the paint is tacking up. If you see a ridge, let it dry, micro-sand, and reapply.

Color matching: bright white, not “vintage”

This paint skews toward a clean, “appliance” white. On newer white fixtures, it blends nicely. On older, slightly cream or almond tones, it can read a touch brighter. I handled this in two ways:

• Feather far beyond the defect so your eye doesn’t land on a stark boundary.
• For subtle blending on an off-white sink, I applied a final pass and lightly smudged the outer edge with a barely damp paper towel before it skinned over. It takes a delicate hand, but it tames the contrast.

If your fixture is clearly off-white, expect a “best possible camouflage” rather than a perfect match.

Durability and water resistance

After several weeks of normal use, including daily handwashing and regular wipe-downs, the repairs have stayed intact—no peeling at edges and no yellowing. Around the tub surround, hot showers and occasional splashes haven’t caused any cracking or lifting. I avoided abrasive powders and harsh bleach solutions; a non-scratch sponge and mild cleaner keep the area looking new.

As with most single-component touch-ups, the long-term wear will depend on surface prep and how often you subject the spot to scrubbing. If you’re constantly cleaning a high-traffic edge, plan on occasional touch-ups rather than assuming a permanent fix.

Where it shines

• Small chips and scratches vanish fast. The coverage and gloss are ideal for pinhead nicks that catch grime or the eye.
• Low odor and simple cleanup. I applied it in a windowless half-bath without headaches, and brushes clean with water before cure.
• Precise, controllable repairs. With a small artist’s brush, I could fill hairline marks on tile without spreading onto grout.
• Versatile surfaces. It gripped well on porcelain and enamel, and adhered evenly over fiberglass after a light scuff.

Limitations and gotchas

• The built-in brush is the weak link. It’s handy in theory, but the attachment can be fragile and the bristles a little chunky for tight work. Keep a fine-tip craft brush on hand.
• Not a filler. For deeper chips that dip below the surrounding surface, you’ll want a compatible filler or epoxy putty first; this paint is the finishing glaze.
• Bright white only. There’s no on-bottle tinting, so if your fixture is cream, matching will require careful feathering.
• Quantity is for touch-ups. One ounce goes surprisingly far for spots and edges, but it’s not meant for large areas.

Practical tips for a cleaner repair

• Work in good light so you can see gloss transitions as you feather.
• Aim for three thin coats over one thick one; it levels better and dries stronger.
• If you need a super-smooth finish, let it cure fully, then polish lightly with a high-grit sanding sponge and a final micro-coat.
• Avoid water and cleaners for at least a day. If you can wait 48 hours, even better.
• For edges near grout or caulk, repair the hard surface first, then recaulk to seal.

Who will benefit most

• Renters and homeowners tackling cosmetic blemishes on otherwise sound fixtures.
• Anyone sensitive to solvent odors who still wants a glossy, durable spot repair.
• DIYers who prefer a controlled brush-on solution rather than a full resurfacing kit.

If you’re trying to rescue a tub that’s broadly peeling or stained throughout, a two-part epoxy refinishing system—or a professional—will be more appropriate. This product is for precision, not overhaul.

Verdict

Ankita’s tub and tile touch-up paint is a straightforward, effective way to erase the kind of small defects that make a bathroom look tired. It delivers a convincingly glossy finish, good adhesion on common bath materials, and low-odor application that’s friendly to work with indoors. The color skews bright white, so blending is key on aged or cream fixtures, and the integrated brush could be sturdier. Still, with proper prep and thin-coat technique, the results look clean and hold up well to everyday moisture.

Recommendation: I recommend this for small, targeted repairs on white or near-white fixtures. It’s inexpensive insurance against chips collecting grime and hairline eyesores stealing focus in an otherwise well-kept bathroom. Keep a fine-tip brush handy, feather your edges, and give it adequate cure time—you’ll get professional-looking spot fixes without the commitment of a full refinish.