Adjust-A-Gate Full Frame Gate Fence Kit, Fits 36-60" Openings & Up to 5-6', Black - Heavy-Duty Outdoor Reinforcement & Accessories for Gates and Fences

Why I reached for this kit

My old wood gate had become the neighborhood case study in sag. I’d straightened it twice, added a brace, and it still dragged every time the weather changed. I wanted something I could tune precisely to my opening, that wouldn’t require a welder or a weekend of guesswork. That’s how I ended up building a new gate with the Adjust-A-Gate kit—and later pairing a second kit to form a wider double gate.

Build quality and what’s included

The frame components are steel with a black powder coat that holds up well outdoors. You get telescoping spreader bars, a vertical end frame, post and frame hinges, a two-way latch, a truss cable with turnbuckle, and a box of screws. The system is designed for 36–60 inch openings and fences 5–6 feet high, which fits most residential use cases. The adjustability is the big draw: you’re not stuck with a fixed frame width, and you can set the opening to match your fence lines and latch position before you skin it with wood or composite.

Hardware quality is solid overall. The hinges and frame components are stout and square. The included wood screws are serviceable, but for structural connections into posts I prefer structural screws or lag bolts—especially on heavier privacy gates or double setups. The latch is a basic two-way design; it works out of the box, but if you already have a favorite, the frame accepts common latch patterns.

Planning and layout matter

If there’s one place this system rewards patience, it’s in layout. A few tips from my install notes:

• Measure your opening after the posts are set and braced. Don’t build to a drawing and assume reality will match.
• Leave proper clearance. I aim for a uniform 3/4–1 inch gap on latch sides and between double leaves to account for seasonal movement and minor sag.
• Keep your posts stout and plumb. A 4x4 can work for a single 5-foot-high gate, but for anything at the 60-inch width or for double gates, a 6x6 post reduces twist and movement.
• Plan your “skin” width at the hinge side. The hinge hardware sits inboard of the outer face, so a narrow first board can leave you with minimal bite for screws. Using a wider board or a hinge-side trim strip prevents a skinny reveal.

Installation: solo-friendly with a few smart steps

I built the single gate in an afternoon without a helper. The double took longer because I fussed with the reveal between leaves and a drop-rod alignment. My general sequence:

1. Dry fit the steel frame on sawhorses. Expand the telescoping rails to your target width, but avoid running them at absolute max if you can—it’s easier to keep everything square with some overlap.
2. Mount the post hinges. Predrill and drive the threaded hinge pins into the post. Take the time to level and align the pin heights; that determines how true your swing will feel. A wrench and a little lubricant help if your posts are dense.
3. Hang the frame vertical on the hinges. This lets you mark latch position and fine-tune width so your latch lines up with the strike location you want.
4. Lock the spreader bars, then add your wood or composite rails/pickets. I pre-drill wood to avoid splits and use exterior-grade structural screws.
5. Install and tension the truss cable. Start just snug, check operation, then tension until the latch-side corner holds its line without over-bowing the frame.
6. Mount the latch and confirm swing and clearances. If you’re doing a double, add a drop rod (not included) to anchor one leaf to the ground.

The hinge design supports smooth swing and makes removal straightforward. On my inward-swing single gate, I get a little over 90 degrees of opening, which is plenty for foot traffic and yard access. Outward-swinging setups are possible but require careful hinge placement and may limit swing depending on post size and fence alignment.

Adjustability that actually works

The star of this system is the adjustability. The telescoping rails make it easy to dial in width, and the truss cable gives you a precise way to counteract sag. If you’ve ever tried to tune a wood-only gate with a generic anti-sag kit, this is a different level of control. I could set the reveal, tension the frame to dead plumb, and then make small tweaks after adding cladding.

A couple of practical constraints:

• At the full 60-inch width, you’ll have less overlap between the telescoping bars. It still works, but if you’re planning a double gate, consider spacing your posts so each leaf lands somewhere mid-range for maximum stiffness.
• The included hardware sets the default hinge pin orientation; if you prefer both pins oriented for quick lift-off removal in a specific direction, you may need alternate hinge hardware. Not a deal-breaker, but worth noting if you frequently remove your gate for vehicle or equipment access.

Performance after build-out

Once skinned with 5/8-inch boards, the single gate feels solid and swings cleanly with no rattle. The cable system keeps the latch side true; I did a small re-tension after a week as the wood settled, then it stayed put through a season of rain and heat. The double gate carries more wind load, so I added a center drop rod and upgraded the post fasteners. With that, operation is predictable and the center seam stays aligned.

Noise is minimal—more of a “thunk” than a clank—and the powder coat shows no early chipping. I wipe the hinges and hit the threads with a dab of grease at install; seasonal lubrication is a good habit, especially in dusty or coastal environments.

Durability and maintenance

Steel and powder coat are a proven combo for outdoor hardware. As with any gate, the weak link is usually the post and the fasteners. Use exterior-rated hardware, seal cut ends on wood, and keep the bottom of the gate clear of soil to avoid wicking moisture. Expect to recheck cable tension after the first few weeks and any time you notice a change in the latch alignment. That’s a five-minute job and far easier than rehanging a sagging wood gate.

Where it shines—and where it doesn’t

Pros:
- Legitimate adjustability: width, sag correction, and latch alignment are easy to dial in.
- Robust steel frame with weather-resistant finish.
- Solo-friendly installation with common tools.
- Plays well with both wood and composite skins.
- Scales to double gates using two kits.

Cons:
- At maximum width, frame overlap is reduced; mid-range widths feel stiffer.
- Included wood screws are basic; upgrade fasteners for posts and heavy skins.
- Hinge hardware limits some pin-orientation options out of the box.
- A drop rod for double gates isn’t included.

Who should choose this kit

If you want a gate that looks like your fence but behaves like a metal frame, this kit hits the mark. DIYers who value adjustability and future tune-ups will appreciate the truss cable and telescoping rails. It’s also a smart way to refurbish a sagging gate without rebuilding posts or ordering custom metalwork. For very wide, tall privacy gates in high-wind areas, consider beefier posts, upgraded fasteners, and a second truss cable per leaf—or step up to a welded frame—though for most residential spans within the spec, this kit is more than enough.

Recommendation

I recommend the Adjust-A-Gate kit. It solves the two big problems with residential gates—fit and sag—without requiring specialized tools or fabrication. The steel frame and truss cable give you precise control during install and an easy path to future adjustments. Plan your layout, avoid running the frame at its absolute maximum width if you can, upgrade the critical fasteners, and you’ll end up with a straight, smooth-swinging gate that stays that way.