Adjust-A-Gate Full Frame Gate Fence Kit, Fits 60-96" Openings & Up to 5', Black - Heavy-Duty Outdoor Reinforcement & Accessories for Gates and Fences

Why I chose this kit

I needed a wide, straight, and low-maintenance gate that would match a wood privacy fence without the headaches of fabricating a custom metal frame. The Adjust-A-Gate kit fit the bill: an all-steel, powder-coated frame with telescoping spreader bars, a truss cable to combat sag, hinges, a two-way latch, and the necessary fasteners. It’s designed for 60–96-inch openings and fences up to 5 feet high, which covered my single 8-foot side-yard gate and a separate double gate project using two kits.

After building and living with these gates, I’ve come away impressed by how well the system balances adjustability, rigidity, and ease of install.

Build quality and design

The frame uses hollow steel members with a durable black powder coat. Parts arrived straight, cleanly finished, and free of burrs. The telescoping spreader bars are the quiet hero here: they allow you to set an exact width without cutting steel, and they lock down solidly once you establish the final opening. The vertical frame member that carries the hinges is stout, and the truss cable triangulates the frame to fight sag over time.

Everything about the design is geared toward keeping wood honest. Even good lumber moves; the steel frame and cable do the work of staying square so your pickets can focus on looking good.

Installation experience

I built the gate solo in an afternoon with a cordless drill, socket set, clamps, a 4-foot level, and a 1/2-inch spade bit. Layout is straightforward:

• Mount the hinge hardware on the post.
• Hang the vertical frame and set the approximate swing height.
• Attach top and bottom 2x4 rails to the frame.
• Slide and lock the telescoping steel spreaders to hit your exact opening.
• Add the middle rail, tension the truss cable, and square the frame.
• Skin with boards or composite to match your fence.
• Install the latch and fine-tune alignment.

A few practical notes from my install:
- Pre-drill pilot holes in your wood. It makes assembly cleaner and prevents splitting.
- A 1/2-inch spade bit is essential for the hinge hardware. You’ll bore deep into the post; on a 4x4 you’re going close to full depth. If you can swing it, 6x6 posts are more forgiving and more resistant to twist.
- I greased the hinge pins before hanging the gate to keep the swing smooth and resist corrosion.
- Leave adequate clearance between paired gates or adjacent structures; a true 1 inch isn’t overkill on wider spans.

I had the frame squared and swinging in a couple of hours, then took my time with the boards for a clean, consistent reveal.

Adjustability in the real world

The kit’s range (60–96 inches) is generous, and the telescoping sections make dialing in an exact width painless. That said, I got the best results when I wasn’t pushing the kit to its absolute maximum. If your posts are set at the far end of the range, plan your lumber layout thoughtfully to avoid awkward gaps, and consider shaving a bit off your opening if possible to keep the steel sections well nested.

Matching fence lines takes some planning at the hinges. Because the hinges mount on the inside face of the post, setting the gate perfectly flush to the fence line can slightly limit opening angle. Mine opens right around 100 degrees, which is fine for pedestrian and yard access. If you need a wider swing, set the hinges back per the manual’s recommendations instead of flush with the fence face.

Hardware and hinges

The hinge system is robust and keeps the gate seated by gravity. I appreciate that I can lift the gate free for maintenance once the latch is released, though note that with the included hinge hardware you can’t orient both pins upward for a quick “lift-off” removal. If that’s a must-have for your setup, plan on alternate hinge hardware.

The included latch is a basic two-way setup and functions as expected. For a double gate, I added a cane bolt (not included) to secure the passive leaf, along with a center stop to protect the latching edge—standard practice for wider spans.

The kit arrives with all the screws you need, but I swapped a handful of critical fasteners for larger or square/torx-drive options where I wanted more bite into the post. It’s a small cost for a big jump in feel and longevity, especially on heavier gates.

Performance and durability

Once skinned with boards, the gate feels solid and swings smoothly. The truss cable is easy to tension and does the job: the gate stayed square after the wood settled, and I only needed a quick tweak on the turnbuckle after a few weeks of seasonal movement. Steel plus a cable beat an all-wood frame every time for sag resistance.

The powder coat finish has handled sun and rain without chalking or rust bleed. Hinges remain quiet with occasional lubrication. Most importantly, the latch engages consistently without having to lift or shove the gate—always a telltale sign of a frame that’s staying true.

Design details worth planning for

• Board layout near the hinges: There’s a few inches of offset between the hinge line and the inner frame. If you’re using narrow pickets, plan your first board to get enough fastener bite on the cross rails. Wider facade boards make this simpler.
• Opening angle: Setting the hinges back on the post increases swing. If you need to clear a driveway or trailer, give the hinges the space they want rather than prioritizing a perfectly flush picket line at the front.
• Post selection: Wider posts (6x6) tame long-term movement and keep the hinge line true, especially for double gates or horizontal board designs.
• Clearance: Leave a bit more side clearance than you think you need on paired gates. Even with the truss cable, wood can gain or lose a hair across seasons.

Who this kit suits best

• DIYers who want a pro-looking gate without welding or custom fabrication.
• Homeowners retrofitting a sagging or dragging gate and wanting to keep the existing fence style.
• Projects requiring precise width without cutting metal on-site.
• Double gates when paired with a cane bolt and center stop.

Less ideal if you need a gate taller than 5 feet without custom work, or if your opening exceeds 96 inches per leaf.

Tips that saved me time

• Dry-fit the frame on sawhorses, square it with the truss cable, and then mount it—fewer surprises at the post.
• Use clamps and a temporary spacer block under the latch-side edge to maintain reveal while you skin the face.
• Pre-seal or paint cut ends of boards before install; finishing after assembly is a pain around the hardware.
• Keep a short length of pipe handy as a cheater bar when seating hinge pins into dense posts.

The bottom line

The Adjust-A-Gate kit delivers what it promises: a strong, adjustable, and straightforward way to build a gate that stays straight. The all-steel frame and truss cable take the uncertainty out of wooden gates, the telescoping design eliminates metal cutting, and the included hardware gets you to the finish line with only wood to supply.

It’s not without quirks—hinge orientation has its limits, the included screws are serviceable but not stellar, and you’ll want to plan your board layout at the hinge side. But these are manageable considerations, not deal-breakers.

Recommendation: I recommend this kit. It’s a smart, durable solution for 60–96-inch openings up to 5 feet high, especially if you value a clean install and long-term alignment. For the cost of a couple of afternoons and some dimensional lumber, you end up with a gate that looks right, swings right, and stays that way.