Adjust-A-Gate Full Frame Gate Fence Kit, Fits 60-96 in. Openings & Up to 6 ft., Black - Heavy-Duty Outdoor Reinforcement & Accessories for Gates and Fences

A gate lives or dies by one thing: sag. I installed the Adjust-A-Gate kit to rebuild an 8-foot side-yard gate and later used a second kit to create one leaf of a wider double drive gate. In both cases, the results were the same: a solid, square swing that stayed true after weather and daily use—without the wrestling match I usually associate with large wooden gates.

What this kit is (and isn’t)

This is a steel framing system that becomes the backbone of your gate. You add your own lumber or composite facing to match your fence. The frame is powder-coated black, sized for openings between 60 and 96 inches and fence heights up to 6 feet. It includes a vertical end frame, telescoping spreader bars that set the width, post and frame hinges, a two-way latch, a truss cable to control sag, and mounting screws.

It’s not a pre-hung gate or a one-size-fits-all panel. You still need square, sturdy posts, cut your rails and cladding, and make a few layout choices. The payoff is adjustability: you build the gate to your exact opening on site, and the frame keeps it from drifting out of square over time.

Setup and install

Installation is straightforward if you prep properly.

• Check your posts. Plumb, rigid posts are non-negotiable for a gate this wide. I used 6x6 posts set in concrete for both installs. A 4x4 can work on a lighter gate, but the wider you go, the more post rigidity matters.
• Dry fit the frame. The telescoping spreader bars make width adjustments painless. I didn’t need to cut metal; I only trimmed the wooden rails to length. Confirm the gate swings clear of grade changes or pavers before you commit holes.
• Pre-drill everything. The kit includes screws, but I pre-drilled pilot holes in all wood members and the posts. For hinges, I prefer through-bolts or structural lags over wood screws on heavy gates, so I upsized the post fasteners. It’s extra time well spent.

The truss cable installs diagonally from the bottom-hinge side to the top-latch side. The included turnbuckle makes fine-tuning easy. I tensioned it until the top rail was dead-level with a torpedo level, then re-checked after a week and again after a month. After that, I haven’t had to touch it.

A typical single gate took me an afternoon including cladding. The double-leaf drive entry took me a day with breaks and fussy alignment.

Hinges and swing

The hinge set mounts to the inside faces of the posts and to the gate’s steel frame. Installed this way, the gate swings smoothly and quietly, and gravity helps keep it seated on the hinge pins. Plan the hinge offset carefully:

• Opening direction: If you want an outward swing, make sure you’ve got clearance and understand your opening angle will change depending on where you set the hinges on the post. Mounted as recommended, my single gate opens a bit past 90 degrees—plenty for people and yard carts.
• Double gates: To keep the fence face continuous with a 6x6 post, I inset the hinges slightly; that limited the opening angle of each leaf. Not a problem for me, but worth noting if you need a full swing for a trailer or mower.

One nit: the hinge hardware locks you into a mixed pin orientation (one up, one down), which is safer against lift-off but less convenient if you like to remove the gate seasonally. If you want lift-off capability, you’ll need to source an alternate hinge arrangement.

Latch and hardware

The included two-way latch is competent and installs cleanly. It lines up well and doesn’t rattle. For the drive gate, I swapped to my preferred latch and drop-rod setup to keep both leaves aligned under wind loads; the frame had the rigidity to make that an easy swap.

The screws in the box will get the job done, but I used exterior-rated, corrosion-resistant fasteners (ceramic-coated or stainless, ideally Torx or square drive) for all wood connections. They hold better, resist stripping, and make future adjustments less painful.

Adjustability and alignment

This kit’s biggest strength is how much it forgives imperfect fence geometry. The telescoping spreaders set the width precisely without cutting steel, and the truss cable takes out racking after you clad the gate and inevitably introduce some twist. A few practical notes from my installs:

• Leave clearance. I target 3/4 to 1 inch between a single gate and a post, and at least that between double leaves. Wood swells; the frame stays true. Give yourself room so seasonal movement doesn’t turn into binding.
• Match your fence lines. If you have a top rail or cap, set the frame so your gate rails line up with the fence rails. The vertical frame and telescoping bars make it easy to hit this visually.
• Facade near hinges. If you’re running vertical pickets or boards, plan ahead on the hinge side. There’s a gap between the hinges and the inner steel frame. Standard 5.5-inch boards worked for me but left a slightly wider reveal along the hinge edge. If you’re picky about symmetry, rip a wider board or add a filler strip under the cladding to close that up.

Real-world performance

After a full season of temperature swings, wind, and regular use, both gates are still square and swing true. The powder-coated steel hasn’t shown rust or chipping, and the cable hasn’t loosened beyond the single retensioning early on. Importantly, the gates feel light in operation even with full cladding—no dragging, no rhythmic bounce that telegraphs sag.

On the double gate, I added a ground stop and a cane bolt to keep the passive leaf parked. That’s more about site conditions than the frame, but it helps the latch line up the same way every time.

Where it shines

• Wide single gates and paired driveway gates up to 8 feet per leaf, especially where a wood-only gate would sag.
• Retrofits where you need to build to a specific opening without ordering custom metalwork.
• DIY installs where adjustability and on-site tuning matter more than pre-fab speed.

Where it’s less ideal

• Tall or unusually heavy cladding beyond 6 feet high. The frame is rated to 6 feet; go taller and you’ll be outside spec.
• Situations that demand frequent lift-off removal of the gate without tools. The hinge orientation favors safety over quick removal.
• Perfectly flush-faced fences on large 6x6 posts where full 180-degree swing is required; you’ll need to plan hinge setbacks or accept a reduced opening angle.

Tips for a smoother build

• Use 6x6 posts for wide or heavy gates, set deep and braced during cure.
• Pre-drill and consider upgrading to exterior-rated Torx or square-drive fasteners.
• Tension the truss cable in stages: initial set, recheck after a week, then again after the first weather cycle.
• If you’re cladding horizontally, build a simple wood subframe on the steel and fasten your boards to that—cleaner layout, fewer awkward fasteners into the steel.
• Think through latch height and strike location before you clad; it’s easier to pre-plan your cutouts than to retro-fit around pickets.

The bottom line

The Adjust-A-Gate kit delivers on its core promise: a strong, adjustable steel backbone that keeps a wide gate from sagging, with hardware that’s easy to set up and tweak on site. It doesn’t try to be everything—you still bring your carpentry and layout skills—but it removes the two biggest pain points of large gates: keeping them square and keeping them that way after the weather has its say.

Recommendation: I recommend this kit for DIYers and pros who need a dependable, adjustable frame for 5- to 8-foot single gates or double-leaf driveway openings, especially where a wood-only build would struggle. Its steel frame and truss cable keep the gate true, the telescoping spreaders remove guesswork, and the hinge/latch package is solid. Plan your hinge placement, upgrade a few fasteners, and give yourself proper clearances, and you’ll end up with a gate that looks right and keeps working long after the fence boards have taken their first beating from the sun.