NAKIS Fence Gate Kit Gate Hardware, 2 Set Anti Sag Gate Kit Heavy Duty No Sag, Anti Twist Gate Frame Corner Brackets Kit Withstand 150 lbs, Gate Hardware Kit for Wood Fence Gate

Why I reached for an anti-sag kit

A sagging gate is one of those small frustrations that becomes a daily reminder that wood moves, hardware loosens, and gravity always wins. I’d repaired a leaning cedar gate twice with diagonal cables and makeshift braces before deciding to do it properly. That’s where the NAKIS gate kit came in. I wanted something that would square up a wood frame, resist twist over time, and let me hang the gate with a clean, consistent swing without hunting down a dozen different pieces. This kit promises all of that in one box, and after two installs with it, I’m glad I made the switch.

What’s included and what it’s for

This is a two-set package, which means you can build two separate gates or a double-swing pair. Each set includes:
- Four welded corner brackets that create a rigid 90° frame
- Two heavy-duty gate hinges
- A self-locking latch with a striker bar
- A pull ring with cable so you can open from either side
- Assorted screws in two lengths (plus latch screws)

Everything is powder-coated black steel. It’s designed around standard 2x4 framing (and works with larger stock), supports up to 150 lb per gate, and can swing left or right up to 180 degrees. The design is different from a traditional diagonal cable “anti-sag” approach; the triangular corner bracing creates a rigid rectangle that resists both sag and twist.

Build quality and finish

The corner brackets are the standout here. They’re thick enough to feel substantial and don’t flex under load. The hinge leaves are welded, not riveted, and the barrels have a smooth, consistent action out of the box. The finish is a matte black powder coat. Mine has handled weeks of rain without flashing any rust at joints or edges. If you’re near the coast, I’d still pair it with exterior-grade or stainless fasteners, but for typical backyard conditions, the coating is more than adequate.

The latch is basic in the best way: no exposed springs to rust out and a simple, positive catch. The included pull ring makes it easy to operate from the outside, and the strike bar gives you a bit of adjustment during alignment.

Installation experience

I rebuilt a 42-inch-wide cedar gate first, then used the second set for a matching enclosure door. Both frames started life as standard 2x4 rectangles. Here’s how it went:

• Squaring the frame: With the lumber cut to length, the corner brackets make it easy to get a dead-square frame. I set the frame on a flat surface, checked both diagonals, and tightened the brackets once it was true. This took me under half an hour per frame.

• Hinge side prep: I pre-drilled for the included screws on the gate frame. For attaching hinges to the post, I chose to upgrade to 1/4-inch lag screws for extra bite and long-term hold. The included screws will work for light-to-moderate gates, but for anything approaching the upper end of the 150-lb rating or a gate that sees frequent use, lag screws or structural exterior screws are a smart upgrade.

• Hanging and clearance: The hinges can be oriented for left or right swing and will open a full 180 degrees. I shimmed a 1/2-inch gap under the gate during hanging to set a consistent bottom clearance over pavers and adjusted the hinge spacing on the post to get a flush reveal.

• Latch alignment: The latch plate and striker bar have enough play to dial in a reliable close, but take your time here. I temporarily clamped the striker, checked the catch a dozen times, then fastened it. The pull ring installs cleanly through a 3/4-inch hole and works from either side.

• Final checks: I test-opened the gate to full swing, checked for any bind at the hinge barrels, and made sure the latch closed without needing slam force. Once squared, everything stayed true.

A second set of hands helps during hanging, especially on a tall privacy gate. You can do it solo with scrap blocks or a gate jack if you’re patient.

Performance in use

The structural benefit of this kit is immediate: the frame is a rigid rectangle, not a flexy assembly hoping a diagonal brace can keep it true. With the corner brackets locked down, the gate stayed perfectly square. A month in, the latch lines up like day one and the swing is consistent and quiet.

The hinges feel overbuilt for typical backyard gates, which I prefer. There’s no rattle in the barrels and no slop in the leaf-to-leaf fit. The 180-degree opening range is useful when I need the gate to sit fully tucked against the fence line—no awkward partial open that eats up pathway space.

Notable limitations and practical tips

• Fasteners: The included screws are fine for most frames but light for a heavy gate or for hinge-to-post connections. Upgrading to lag screws or structural exterior screws on the hinge side is cheap insurance. Pre-drill to prevent splitting, especially in older, dry posts.

• Pressure-treated lumber: If you’re using PT wood, use hot-dip galvanized or properly coated fasteners to avoid corrosion. The powder coat on the hardware has held up well for me, but the wrong screws are where corrosion starts.

• Vinyl gates: This kit can work with vinyl, but only if you’re fastening into internal reinforcement or added wood blocking. Screws won’t hold reliably in hollow vinyl alone.

• Weight and width: Respect the 150-lb gate weight limit. For very wide gates with dense cladding, consider dividing into double-swing leaves using both sets to reduce cantilevered load.

• Planning your reveal: Before mounting the latch, decide on your desired reveal and bottom clearance. A couple of shims and a torpedo level save time and rework.

How it compares to piecing hardware together

You can absolutely build a gate by buying generic angles, separate hinges, and a latch from a big-box store. I’ve done that. The difference here is speed and rigidity. The matched corner brackets eliminate the fussy part of making a truly square, twist-resistant rectangle. Hang time is faster, and the end result feels more like a small door than a flimsy panel. The value add is even stronger if you’re doing two gates, since the kit is a two-pack.

Who this kit suits

• DIYers building or rehabbing wood gates who want a straightforward path to a square, durable frame
• Homeowners replacing cable-style anti-sag braces with a more permanent solution
• Installers who want a complete kit for small runs instead of sourcing a la carte components

If you’re building a very heavy, extra-wide gate, or working in a coastal zone where only stainless will do, you’ll spend a bit more on upgraded fasteners or specialty hinges. For most residential wood and vinyl situations with 2x4 framing, this kit hits the sweet spot.

The bottom line

The NAKIS gate kit solves the two problems that matter most in a fence gate: staying square and swinging smoothly. The rigid corner brackets and solid hinges make for a frame that resists sag and twist, the powder-coated steel holds up outdoors, and the latch is uncomplicated and reliable. Installation is approachable for a solo DIYer, and the two-set box makes it economical for double gates or multiple projects.

I recommend this kit. It turns gate building into a predictable, repeatable process and delivers a sturdy, long-lasting result. Just plan to upgrade the hinge-to-post fasteners on heavier gates, and you’ll have a gate that closes cleanly today—and still does after a season of weather and use.