Eastman Aluminum Water Heater Drain Pan with PVC Fittings, 20 Inch ID x 22 Inch OD Compression, 60080

A drip pan is the kind of hardware you forget about until you need it. I installed Eastman’s aluminum drain pan under a new 40-gallon gas water heater to satisfy code and add a bit of insurance for slow leaks and valve drips. After living with it and putting it through a few practical tests, I have a clear sense of where this pan shines and where it asks for a bit of care.

Design and build quality

The pan is a simple, low-profile aluminum basin with a 20-inch inner diameter and 22-inch outer diameter. It’s lightweight enough to carry and position solo, yet it feels sturdier than plastic alternatives I’ve used. Aluminum is a smart choice here: it won’t rust, it handles heat from a gas unit without complaint, and it’s easy to clean.

My unit arrived with a minor bend on one edge—nothing dramatic, but enough to notice. A few careful presses against a flat surface trued it up within a minute. That’s the tradeoff with aluminum at this thickness: it’s strong enough for the job but can dent in transit. The benefit is that you can also shape it slightly when needed. I lightly flexed the rim to sneak past a nearby gas line and it sprang back without creasing.

Edges were reasonably smooth on my sample; I still wore gloves while maneuvering it around the heater closet. The sidewall is low (as most pans are), which keeps the profile tidy but also limits how much water it can hold at once. More on that in a bit.

Included fitting and drainage

The pan comes with a 1-inch PVC drain fitting that installs in the pre-punched side outlet. The fitting is a compression style, so it’s straightforward: seat it through the hole, snug it down, and connect to your drain line. I added a bead of silicone on both sides of the hole before tightening to guarantee a watertight seal; it’s not strictly necessary, but it eliminates wiggle room.

Routing the discharge is where installation diverges by jobsite:
- If you have a floor drain nearby, glue up a short run of 1-inch PVC with a gentle slope and you’re done.
- If you don’t have a drain, you can still use the pan for inspection and basic protection, but it’s worth pairing it with a leak sensor or automatic shutoff valve. The pan alone isn’t going to save you in a tank-rupture scenario.
- In a pinch, I’ve directed the fitting into a temporary catch pail for testing and maintenance. It’s not my preferred permanent solution, but it’s useful during commissioning.

Do check local code. Many jurisdictions require a pan under water heaters installed in or above living spaces, and they often require that pan to be piped to an approved drain.

Fit and sizing

The 20-inch inner diameter is the key dimension. My 40-gallon gas heater’s base measured just under 18 inches, which left me with roughly 1–1.5 inches of clearance all around—ideal. That space helps with airflow and makes it easier to route the drain fitting.

Sizing tips from the field:
- Measure the actual base of your heater, not the tank jacket. The base is what sits in the pan.
- Leave at least an inch of breathing room on each side; more is fine if space allows.
- If you’re working with a 50-gallon unit or a larger, high-efficiency model, you may need a bigger pan. Don’t try to “make it fit” if the base is riding the lip.

The 22-inch outer diameter matters in tight closets. Check that you can get the pan through the door and around corners before you drain the tank and disconnect everything.

Installation experience

If you’re installing with a new heater, the process is straightforward:
1. Clean and level the floor. A thin rubber mat or composite shim pads can help damp vibration and keep the pan quiet on concrete.
2. Position the pan with the drain outlet oriented toward your drain path.
3. Set the heater in the pan. I prefer gentle “bear hug and drop” control to avoid scuffing the interior.
4. Install the drain fitting, seal if needed, and plumb it to your drain.
5. Reconnect gas, water, and venting per manufacturer instructions and local code.

Retrofitting under an existing heater is trickier. The pan height is low, but you still need clearances to lift or slide the tank. In some cases, it’s faster to replace aging flex lines and set the heater back into the pan rather than wrestling the pan under a full install.

Day-to-day performance

This is a defensive product; if it’s doing its job, you won’t notice it most days. I tested it by bleeding the drain valve and letting the water run into the pan before routing out through the fitting. No flex, no pooling at the seams, no rattle on ignition. The aluminum cleans up easily—wipe and done.

The pan does catch what it’s meant to catch: valve drips, sweat from cold water lines, minor seepage that would otherwise stain or damage flooring. It is not a substitute for a drain line and it is not a bathtub for a failed tank. If your heater goes suddenly, a shallow pan like this will buy you minutes, not hours. For that reason, I always recommend a leak detector with a shutoff valve in laundry rooms, closets above finished spaces, or anywhere you lack a floor drain.

Durability and maintenance

Aluminum won’t rust, and it shrugs off heat—both important under gas units. The main vulnerability is deformation from hard knocks. Once installed, that’s not an issue; during shipping or handling, it can be. If your pan arrives with cosmetic dents, a flat block and gentle taps with a rubber mallet will bring it back. If the rim is significantly crushed, I’d exchange it—there’s no reason to start behind the eight ball.

Maintenance is simple:
- Inspect the drain path annually to ensure it’s clear.
- Check the fitting nut for snugness and renew sealant if you ever remove it.
- Wipe out dust and sediment; grit tends to collect behind heaters.

A few practical extras

• For tight mechanical rooms, I like to mark the water heater’s footprint in the pan with a permanent marker. It makes re-centering easier after service.
• If you need to “notch” the rim around a fixed obstruction, aluminum makes that doable with tin snips. File and tape the cut for safety.
• If you plan to use the pan as a general-purpose catch tray (say, under a portable heater or during kerosene refills), it works well and wipes clean. I’ve used it that way on job sites and appreciated the stable, flat base.

Value and alternatives

Compared to plastic pans, this aluminum pan offers better heat resistance and a stiffer feel without a big weight penalty. Steel pans are tougher but heavier and can rust if coatings get scratched. For most residential gas water heaters in the 30–40 gallon range, this aluminum option hits a sweet spot: affordable, durable enough, and dead simple to install. The included 1-inch fitting is generous and avoids the undersized drains I still see on budget pans.

The only consistent caution is shipping-induced dents. If you’re ordering online, plan to inspect on arrival. If you’re buying in-store, eyeball the rim and sidewall and pick a clean one.

Who it’s for

• Homeowners and pros installing a gas water heater where a pan is required or just prudent.
• Anyone who prefers metal over plastic under a gas appliance.
• Installations with an accessible drain line (or owners willing to add one and/or a leak detector).

If you need a deeper containment solution, or you’re dealing with a large-format heater that exceeds a 20-inch base, step up in size or look for specialty containment systems.

Recommendation

I recommend the Eastman aluminum drain pan for small to mid-size gas water heaters. It’s light, rustproof, heat-tolerant, and easy to plumb thanks to the included 1-inch fitting. While the aluminum can pick up cosmetic dents in transit, it’s also forgiving enough to true up by hand, and those marks don’t affect performance. Used as intended—paired with a proper drain path and, ideally, a leak sensor—it provides a reliable first line of defense against the kinds of leaks that actually happen day to day. For the price and simplicity, it’s a sensible, dependable choice.