Universal Metal Solutions 26GA Galvanized Drain Pan W/O Hole-Rust-Free Made for Electric Water Heater & Air Conditioning Units Protects Floor from Water Damage, Easy to Install- 22"x22"x2"

A good drain pan is one of those components you never think about until you need it. I installed the DPNH22 galvanized drain pan under an electric water heater during a utility room refresh, and later repurposed a second one beneath an attic air handler as a secondary catch. It’s a simple piece of metal, but it solves a high-stakes problem: containing leaks before they turn into damaged drywall, warped floors, or worse.

What it is and why it matters

The DPNH22 is a 26‑gauge galvanized steel pan measuring 22 x 22 x 2 inches. The square footprint makes it versatile for round tanks and rectangular appliances, and the 2-inch sidewall offers meaningful capacity for slow leaks and nuisance condensate. My unit came without a pre-cut drain hole, which is the version I prefer when I’m not constrained by an existing drain line location. The galvanized finish is the headline feature—steel resists the cracking and UV brittleness that eventually claims many plastic pans, while the zinc coating provides corrosion resistance.

If you’ve ever nursed a plastic pan that sags or spider-cracks over time, the jump to a 26‑gauge steel pan feels like a straightforward upgrade in durability and stability.

Build and design

• Material: 26‑gauge galvanized steel
• Exterior dimensions: 22 x 22 x 2 inches
• Shape: Square, with formed corners and consistent sidewalls
• Finish: Even, matte zinc coating (mine arrived with no burrs or sharp edges)

At 26 gauge, the pan hits a sweet spot: rigid enough not to flex under a full tank’s footprint, yet light enough to position solo. The corners on my sample were cleanly formed and the bottom sat perfectly flat, which matters for even support and proper drainage if you add a fitting. The zinc coating looked uniform, with no bare steel visible at bends—important for slowing corrosion.

I don’t consider this “heavy industrial” steel, but for residential water heaters and air handlers, the thickness is appropriate. It’s leagues sturdier than the plastic alternatives I’ve replaced.

Installation experience

For the water heater, I slid the pan into place on the slab, checked that I had at least a half‑inch clearance around the tank’s perimeter, and then set the tank onto the center of the pan. The 22-inch square footprint is a good match for common 40–50 gallon electric tanks; measure your specific model, but most round tanks with a 20-inch diameter base will have breathing room in this pan.

Because my unit shipped without a hole, I had two options:
- Leave it as a catch pan paired with a leak alarm, or
- Add a bulkhead drain fitting and tie it into a floor drain

I chose to add a drain. Drilling 26‑gauge galvanized steel is straightforward: I marked the exit sidewall, used a step bit to the fitting size, deburred the hole, and installed a gasketed bulkhead fitting with a bead of silicone sealant. This took 10 minutes and resulted in a tidy, leak‑free connection to 3/4-inch PVC. If you’re not comfortable drilling metal, the manufacturer also offers a pre‑drilled variant, but the blank pan gives you full control over drain placement.

Under the attic air handler, I used the pan as a secondary containment with a water alarm—no drain fitting, just a clean catch to buy time if the primary condensate line clogs. The square shape sits nicely under rectangular equipment where a round pan wastes space.

Performance in use

• Stability: Excellent. No flexing, bowing, or “oil canning” when the heater is set down.
• Capacity: At 2 inches deep, you get a meaningful buffer for slow leaks or intermittent condensate. Don’t treat it as a reservoir; think of it as a warning and a path to a drain.
• Protection: The pan distributes weight evenly and prevents point loads from digging into subflooring. On a finished surface, it’s insurance you’ll forget about until it matters.

With a drain plumbed to daylight, small leaks disappear without drama. With no drain, a battery alarm earns its keep.

Durability and corrosion

Galvanized steel is resistant, not invincible. After a few weeks, my water heater pan showed no staining and wiped clean easily. On the attic unit, I noticed a light powdery film after a humid spell—that’s typical zinc oxidation (white rust) from condensation and isn’t a failure. If you see brown staining, it often traces back to iron in the water, steel flakes from upstream fittings, or metal dust, not necessarily the pan itself. Wipe it out, dry the pan, and monitor.

To maximize lifespan:
- Avoid standing water. Either plumb a drain or use a leak alarm to catch issues early.
- If you drill a hole, deburr thoroughly and use a gasketed bulkhead fitting with sealant to keep raw edges protected.
- In corrosive environments (salt air, pool equipment rooms), consider a light coat of clear rust inhibitor or a removable rubber liner.

In normal residential use, the galvanized finish should outlast plastic alternatives by a wide margin.

Code and best practices

Local requirements vary, but many jurisdictions expect:
- A pan beneath water heaters located on finished floors or above living spaces
- A pan drain line to an approved location, or a leak alarm if a gravity drain isn’t feasible
- Adequate clearance and safe support for the appliance

The blank DPNH22 works well if you need to place the drain on a specific side. If you’re aiming for the simplest, code‑straight install, the pre‑drilled version plus a compatible drain kit can save a step.

Fit, footprint, and use cases

Where this pan shines:
- Electric water heaters up to roughly 20-inch base diameter
- Air handlers and dehumidifiers as secondary containment
- Compact laundry appliances in tight closets or RVs, when you need a sturdy metal tray

The square design gives better edge‑to‑edge coverage than a round pan under rectangular equipment. Measure your space—22 inches is compact enough for closets but generous enough to offer realistic spill protection.

What I like

• Sturdy, consistent 26‑gauge build that doesn’t flex under load
• Clean galvanization and tidy forming without sharp burrs
• Square shape that works under cylindrical and rectangular equipment
• Blank (no‑hole) format that lets me choose drain exit location
• Easy to drill and fit with standard bulkhead drain fittings

What could be better

• No included fittings in the no‑hole version; you’ll need to source a bulkhead and piping
• Zinc finish, while robust, still benefits from attention in highly humid or chemically aggressive spaces
• The 2-inch depth is appropriate for code and practicality, but don’t expect it to hold a major leak for long—pair it with a drain or alarm

Tips for getting the most out of it

• Dry fit the appliance on the pan to confirm clearance before drilling your drain hole.
• If you’re routing to PVC, a 3/4-inch bulkhead fitting is commonly accepted for pan drains; confirm with local code.
• Use a step bit on low speed for a clean hole through thin galvanized steel, and deburr the edge before installing the fitting.
• Add a low-profile water alarm in the pan, even if you plumb a drain; it’s a cheap early warning.

The bottom line

The DPNH22 galvanized drain pan is a straightforward, well‑made upgrade over plastic pans. It’s rigid, easy to work with, and appropriately sized for common residential equipment. The ability to choose your drain location (or run it as a catch with an alarm) makes it adaptable to real‑world spaces where the “right side” isn’t negotiable.

I recommend this pan. If you’re installing an electric water heater, slipping a durable, corrosion‑resistant metal pan underneath is inexpensive insurance against costly repairs. The DPNH22’s square footprint, sensible 26‑gauge construction, and no‑nonsense installation hit the mark. Choose the pre‑drilled version if you want a plug‑and‑play drain, or the blank one if you value flexibility. Either way, it’s a simple tool that does an important job quietly and well.