Eastman Water Heater Drain Pan with PVC Fittings, 20 Inch ID x 22 Inch OD Compression, 60076

Why I reached for this pan

Water heater leaks rarely start as a dramatic flood. More often it’s a slow weep that stains subfloors, swells baseboards, and invites rust. I added the Eastman pan to a small utility closet with a gas water heater to give myself early warning and a path for runoff to a safe drain. I chose it because it’s sized for compact tanks (20-inch inner diameter, 22-inch outer), it won’t corrode, and it comes with a simple PVC fitting for a drain line.

Right out of the box, the pan is lightweight and flexible—hallmarks of high-impact plastic. If you’re expecting the heft of a galvanized steel pan, this isn’t that. The plastic construction is the point: it won’t rust, it handles the occasional bump without denting, and it’s easy to maneuver in tight rooms.

Design and build

• Material: high-impact plastic, black
• Size: 20-inch inner diameter (ID), 22-inch outer diameter (OD)
• Included: 1-inch PVC drain fitting

The Eastman pan uses a molded plastic body with a smooth interior and a slightly thicker rim. The flexibility is useful when you’re nudging it around obstacles or squeezing it through a narrow door. On a flat floor, it sits true and doesn’t rock. The sidewalls have enough give that I could press them inward by hand, but once the water heater was resting in place, the pan stayed flat and stable.

The drain outlet is set up for a 1-inch PVC connection using a simple bulkhead-style fitting. On mine, it included a gasket and nut to clamp the fitting through the outlet hole. I prefer this arrangement to thin knockouts: there’s less risk of cracking the pan during preparation, and the gasket provides a reliable seal when tightened evenly.

A note on size: my gas water heater’s base ring measured a hair under 19-1/2 inches in diameter, which left a modest margin inside the 20-inch ID. That small clearance is important for air circulation and for wiggling the tank into position without scraping the sidewall. If your base ring is closer to 20 inches, expect a snug fit. Measure the widest point of the heater base (not the tank jacket) before you buy.

Installation experience

Installing a pan under an existing water heater is always trickier than during a replacement, but this one went smoothly thanks to the low weight and the straightforward fitting. Here’s how I approached it:

1. Measured the heater base to confirm clearance.
2. Oriented the pan so the outlet lined up with the nearest drain route.
3. Cleaned the floor thoroughly—no grit, screws, or ridge lines—so the pan bottom had full support.
4. Slid the pan into position and set the heater gently into it, keeping the weight centered and off the rim.
5. Installed the PVC bulkhead fitting with the gasket inside the pan and the locknut outside. Hand-tightened, then a quarter-turn more with slip-joint pliers—enough to compress the gasket without deforming the plastic.
6. Ran 1-inch schedule 40 PVC to a safe termination with proper slope, solvent-welded the joints, and supported the line every 3 to 4 feet.

Before relighting the heater, I poured a few pitchers of water into the pan to test the drain path. No seepage at the fitting, and the water cleared the pan quickly. That test is worth the five minutes it takes—if there’s a drip, you’ll want to know before the heater is back online.

Two practical tips:
- Verify the fitting is in the box before you start. It saves a parts run mid-project.
- Don’t overtighten the locknut. If you crush the gasket or warp the outlet area, you can create a leak path you’re trying to prevent.

Day-to-day performance

A pan is a passive piece of insurance, so “performance” is mostly about fit, stability, and how it handles minor water events. In use, the Eastman pan has been uneventful in the best way. It sits flat, the heater is fully supported on the base—not the rim—and the drain remains unobstructed.

I deliberately induced a minor condensate test by running warm water through the tank on a cool morning. A small sheen formed and moved toward the outlet, then cleared. That’s the behavior I want: intercept small leaks and nudge them away before they find seams in the flooring.

One thing to understand: a pan is not a containment vessel for a catastrophic tank failure. The goal is diversion and early warning, not holding dozens of gallons. The sidewalls here are adequate for minor accumulation and splashes, but you should pair the pan with a code-compliant drain line and, ideally, a leak alarm.

Durability and limitations

The plastic construction is a decisive win against rust, especially in damp basements or coastal areas. It also shrugs off minor knocks that would leave permanent dents in thin metal. The tradeoff is thickness: this is a light pan. It’s tough enough for its purpose when properly supported on a clean, flat surface, but it’s not built to handle point loads or sharp edges. If your water heater stands on narrow feet rather than a flat base ring, place a smooth load-spreading board inside the pan to avoid concentrated pressure points, and confirm that doesn’t interfere with burner air or manufacturer clearances.

Heat hasn’t been an issue in my install. The burner and flue of a gas tank sit well above the pan floor; the plastic never sees direct flame or high radiant heat. That said, keep flammable debris out of the pan and maintain the clearances specified by the heater manufacturer.

For outdoor or attic installs with wide temperature swings or UV exposure, plastic can eventually chalk and embrittle. This pan is meant for interior mechanical spaces, and that’s where it belongs.

Code and safety considerations

• Check local code. Many jurisdictions require drain pans in certain locations and specify drain line size and routing. The included outlet is 1 inch, which is a common minimum.
• Don’t rely on the pan to manage a temperature and pressure (T&P) relief discharge unless your code explicitly allows it. The T&P valve should terminate to a safe location independent of the pan.
• Maintain a clear path to the drain with proper slope. Horizontal runs full of dips defeat the point of the pan.

Where this pan makes sense

• Small to medium gas water heaters with base rings under 20 inches
• Tight closets where a lightweight pan is easier to position
• Damp environments where rust resistance matters
• Budget-conscious installs where you still want a drain connection

Where I’d look at alternatives:
- Larger tanks that need more clearance than a 20-inch ID provides
- Locations demanding heavier-gauge metal due to mechanical abuse or code
- Situations with narrow, spindly heater feet that concentrate load unless you add a load spreader

Pros

• Corrosion-proof plastic is ideal for damp spaces
• Light and easy to maneuver into tight rooms
• Simple, gasketed 1-inch PVC fitting seals reliably
• Adequate capacity for minor leaks and condensation
• Reasonably priced for routine replacements

Cons

• Thin-walled; requires a clean, flat surface and care with point loads
• Tight fit on some 20-inch-class heaters—measure carefully
• Plastic isn’t suited for harsh UV or unconditioned exterior placements

Final take

The Eastman pan does what a water heater pan should: it sits inconspicuously under the tank, provides a sealed outlet for a drain line, and redirects nuisance water to a safe place. It’s light and flexible, which makes installation less of a wrestling match, and the plastic construction eliminates corrosion worries. The tradeoff is that it feels light; treat it accordingly—keep grit out from under it, center the load on a flat base ring, and don’t expect it to perform like a steel tray in a workshop with heavy abuse.

Would I recommend it? Yes, with clear expectations. If your heater’s base measures under 20 inches and you want a rust-proof, straightforward pan with a proper drain connection, this is a solid, economical choice. Measure twice, install the gasketed fitting carefully, and test the drain before you relight. Used that way, the pan is an easy upgrade that can save you from a small leak becoming a big repair.