Bosch 20 in. 1-1/8 in. Hex Moil Point Chisel

Why I reached for this moil point

Breaking up cured concrete and busting out stubborn rock calls for a tip that can find a fracture and keep driving it. That’s why I keep a moil point in the kit, and recently I spent several days with Bosch’s 20-inch, 1-1/8-inch hex moil point—what I’ll just call the Bosch moil point—across a mix of jobs: trenching through a patio slab, opening a footing in a garage floor, popping a few granite fieldstones, and some trail work in limestone using a manual slide-hammer breaker.

Fit and setup

The hex shank is machined to proper spec and seats confidently in standard 1-1/8-inch hex breakers. I ran it in a corded electric 60-lb breaker and a smaller pneumatic unit on shop air; retention was positive with no rattle or clocking. The 20-inch length is practical: long enough to reach into footings and control the working angle without nuking your back, but not so long that it whips or amplifies vibration.

If you’re switching over from a shorter point, the extra length is noticeable in a good way—less stooping and better visibility to the fracture line. Just don’t use the length as leverage to pry; it’s a chisel, not a crowbar.

Performance in concrete

On 4,000–4,500 psi cured concrete, the Bosch moil point performs like a proper general-purpose breaker bit. The tip sets quickly, propagates a crack, and remains controllable as you “walk” a line. Compared with a narrow flat chisel, the moil point concentrates energy slightly better to start a fracture; once a crack is established, both tips move material at similar rates. Where the moil point wins is in accuracy: tapping into anchor pockets or breaking small islands around rebar without skating is easier.

Running the breaker at a moderate beat rate, I opened a 10-foot trench across a 5-inch slab without fuss. The tip wore to a modestly blunted cone over a few hours, which is normal. Penetration remained predictable; I didn’t see significant slipping even when working at low angles along a score line. In reinforced sections, contact with rebar caused cosmetic nicks but no chips out of the tip—again, expected with alloy steel at this hardness.

Asphalt and masonry

If you’re patching asphalt, a spade bit is generally faster, but the moil point is handy for starting edges and popping out stubborn chunks near curbs or utility boxes. In brick and block, it’s aggressive; plan on collateral damage if you’re anywhere near a mortar joint you care about. As always, match the bit to the task.

Rock work: granite vs. limestone

Stone tells you a lot about a chisel. On granite boulders I was feathering out for a landscape wall, the tip maintained shape respectably. Progress is slow in granite regardless of the bit; the Bosch moil point didn’t round off prematurely and stayed controllable across several hours of intermittent work.

In limestone, I used two approaches: the powered breaker and a manual slide-hammer “pogo” style jack. Powered, the moil point was fine—similar wear pattern to concrete, with the tip rounding gradually and still functioning well.

The manual slide hammer was another story. That tool delivers more peening force directly into the tip with less damping, and after a short stint of aggressive chipping on a ledge, I saw the point begin to mushroom. It wasn’t catastrophic, but it was enough to warrant dressing the tip on a grinder before continuing. If your primary use is a manual slide hammer against hard limestone, expect to maintain the tip more often, and you’ll want to keep the point cool when grinding to preserve temper.

Durability and heat treatment

Overall, the alloy steel here strikes a reasonable balance between toughness and hardness for powered breakers. In typical demolition work, it resists chipping, and the shank shows normal galling without deformation. Under repeated high-impact manual blows on dense stone, the tip can peen over and require re-sharpening sooner than some heavier-tempered points I’ve used.

Two practical notes to maximize life:
- Avoid dry grinding. Quench frequently or use a belt to prevent heat buildup that can draw the temper and accelerate mushrooming.
- Keep the shank lightly greased where your tool’s bushing contacts it; the reduced friction helps energy transfer and reduces heat, which helps the steel.

If you’re disciplined about maintenance, the Bosch moil point holds up over many cycles. If you’re rough on bits and prone to prying or overheating the tip, you’ll shorten its life quickly—as with any moil.

Control and ergonomics

The 20-inch length hits a sweet spot for trenching and footing work. You can run the breaker more upright, and the extra reach gives you better sightlines to hairline fractures. I noticed less back fatigue compared with 16–18 inch points. The trade-off is leverage: it’s tempting to lever chunks free. Resist that instinct. The moil point is happiest being a striker, not a pry bar.

Vibration is largely dictated by the breaker, not the bit, but the consistent seating and straight shank help keep rebound predictable. The point tracks well without skating when you’re starting a hole or working at a shallow angle.

Compatibility and pack options

This is a standard 1-1/8-inch hex bit, so if your breaker uses that shank (common on many electric and pneumatic breakers), you’re set. Tolerances felt right in every tool I tried—no excessive lash, no difficulty in and out of the retainer. It’s offered as a single piece or in multi-packs. If your workflow chews through points—road crews, demo contractors—the multi-pack can make sense, especially if you rotate bits to manage heat.

Where it shines—and where it doesn’t

Strengths:
- Reliable, predictable performance in cured concrete with or without light rebar contact.
- Easy to start cracks precisely; good control for detail work around footings and anchors.
- Practical length that reduces bending and improves line of sight.
- Shank fit and finish are on point for standard 1-1/8-inch hex breakers.

Caveats:
- In manual slide-hammer use on dense limestone, the tip can mushroom more quickly than some harder-tempered alternatives. Plan on periodic dressing.
- Not the right choice for prying or slicing tasks where a spade/narrow chisel would be faster and less abusive to the tip.
- Like any moil, it’s not a universal bit—pair it with a spade and flat chisel to cover more ground efficiently.

Tips for best results

• Let the hammer do the work; if you’re leaning hard and not progressing, change the angle or move to a spade/flat for that section.
• Rotate the bit slightly between breaks to wear the point evenly.
• Dress the tip with light passes and quench often. A blunt cone is fine; a needle point will self-round immediately and can chip.
• Keep a second bit on hand for hot-swapping during long sessions; cooler steel lasts longer.

The bottom line

The Bosch moil point is a solid, no-drama performer for general breaking in concrete and mixed masonry when used with a powered 1-1/8-inch hex breaker. The geometry is right, the length is useful, and the shank fit inspires confidence. In rock, particularly limestone with a manual slide hammer, it’s more sensitive to peening than some heavy-duty points, so you’ll want to be proactive about maintenance to keep it in shape.

Recommendation: I recommend the Bosch moil point for contractors and serious DIYers who primarily break concrete or mixed masonry with a powered breaker and want a dependable, well-sized point that holds up under normal abuse. If your main use case is a manual slide-hammer against dense limestone or you routinely pry with your bit, look for a heavier-tempered point or be prepared to dress this one more frequently.