DeWalt 9 in. Precision Claw Bar

A compact pry bar that earns its pouch space

My tool belt always has room for one compact pry bar, and over the past few weeks I’ve been reaching for DeWalt’s 9-inch claw bar more than I expected. It sits in that sweet spot between a delicate trim bar and a burly demolition bar—small enough for controlled work in tight spots, yet sturdy enough to muscle out stubborn fasteners. If you do any mix of remodeling, punch-list repairs, or cabinet work, this kind of bar becomes a quiet workhorse.

Design and build

At 9 inches long, the bar is intentionally compact. The I‑beam shaft is a smart choice—it keeps the weight down while resisting twist, so it doesn’t feel whippy when you lean on it. DeWalt lists a gross weight a little over a pound; in hand, it feels balanced and substantial without being fatiguing. The cross‑section never felt flexy under normal use, and I pushed it harder than I would a typical trim tool.

Both ends are purpose-driven. One side is a precision claw set that’s sharpened thin and backed by an extra‑wide strike surface. The other end is a pointed, beveled “cat’s‑paw” style tip with a dedicated nail‑digging feature—the heel behind the point is made to be struck. The combination lets you decide whether you want to surgically lift a nail head or dig down to find it.

An over‑molded grip wraps a portion of the shaft. It’s not a gimmick here; it genuinely improves control when you’re tapping, twisting, or pulling with fingertips rather than a full fist, especially when your hands are dusty or cold.

In use: nails, trim, and tight corners

I first put the bar to work on a kitchen refresh: removing old casing, pulling a smattering of finish nails without chewing the jambs, and adjusting a couple of framing nails that were proud in a stud bay. The sharpened claws were the standout. They slide under nail heads predictably, especially after a few light taps on the wide strike face to get started. The edges are thin enough to feel “precise” but not so delicate that they roll over after a morning of use.

The pointed, beveled end is the other half of the story. For nails that are buried beneath layers of paint or slightly recessed in hardwood, I used the nail‑digging feature as intended—tap the heel behind the point, not the tip itself, to drive the bevel down alongside the nail. A couple of controlled taps, a small twist, and there’s enough exposure to switch to the claws. This technique preserved more wood than trying to chisel around the nail with a screwdriver or fight it with a big flat bar.

In corners—like the back side of a miter or where a jamb meets a floor—the short length and narrow geometry shine. I could get into tight joint lines where a hammer face won’t fit, then use the I‑beam stiffness to pry just enough to break free old adhesive or a stubborn brad.

Leverage and control

Nine inches of bar will never replace a 15‑ or 18‑inch demo bar for raw leverage, and that’s not the mission here. The 9‑inch length gave me exactly what I want for controlled work: enough throw to lift small trim, ease staples from subfloor, or pop a 6d or 8d fastener, but not so much that one careless move caves in drywall. For the rare 16d sinker buried in dense framing, I used the pointed end to start the pull and then stepped up to a longer bar for the finish. Consider this the scalpel in your pry kit, not the sledge.

The over‑mold grip is helpful for the “tap and twist” workflow. It dampens the sting when you’re nudging the bar with a hammer and gives a confident hold when you’re levering against delicate surfaces. I’d prefer a slightly more aggressive texture for wet conditions, but I had no slippage issues in day‑to‑day work.

Surface protection and precision

DeWalt advertises “precision‑sharpened” claws to minimize damage, and the geometry backs that up. The inside faces are ground cleanly, and the outer edges are tight enough to slip under a head without crushing adjacent fibers. You can still bruise soft pine if you’re careless, but compared to a generic cat’s‑paw, I saw less spalling around nail heads.

For painted trim, I still recommend basic precautions: score the paint line first, use a thin putty knife or a shim behind the claws if you’re levering on finished material, and favor twisting to break a fastener’s grip before prying outright. Used that way, this bar leaves tidy results.

Durability and maintenance

After several projects—trim removal, subfloor staple clean‑up, and some light framing corrections—the edges show only minor scuffing. The I‑beam shaft didn’t deform, and I never felt a worrying amount of torque twist. The finish took the predictable scratches you’d expect when working against fasteners, but nothing that affects function. If you want to keep the claws razor sharp, a few strokes with a file now and then will restore the edge in minutes.

The strike surfaces deserve a note: they’re wide enough to hit cleanly but still compact, which suits a 9‑inch tool. Aim your blows at the flats designed for striking—the heel behind the pointed end and the pad behind the claws. Avoid wailing directly on the claw tips or you’ll mushroom an edge on any pry bar, not just this one.

The bar is backed by a limited lifetime warranty, which matches what I expect at this price and category.

Where it excels

• Trim and casing work where you want controlled force
• Pulling finish nails, brads, and smaller framing nails without marring
• Accessing recessed or painted‑over nail heads with the nail‑digging tip
• Working in cramped corners, inside cabinet boxes, and between studs
• Punch‑list tasks where carrying a full‑size demo bar is overkill

Where it falls short

• Heavy demolition: long spikes, engineered lumber, or glued structural assemblies are better handled with a 12–18 inch bar
• Very thin brads in delicate hardwood can still dimple if you don’t use a shim
• The over‑mold is comfortable, but repeated glancing blows can scar it—keep your hammer strikes on the intended flats
• If you want a multi‑angle flat bar for shearing fasteners or wide prying, this isn’t that tool

Comparisons

If you favor a flat “wonder bar” style, a 12‑inch pry bar will give you more leverage and a broader fulcrum, but you’ll lose the pointed nail‑digger and the fine, centered claws. Classic cat’s‑paws of similar size often have sharper points but rougher geometry, which can lead to more surface damage. This 9‑inch bar lands neatly between those camps: more delicate than a flat bar, more controlled than a generic cat’s‑paw, and easier to strike accurately thanks to the intentional pads.

Practical tips

• Pre‑score paint lines before prying trim to prevent tear‑out
• Use light taps on the strike pads to “walk” the claws under a head rather than forcing them
• When pulling, twist first to break the nail’s bite, then lever
• Back the claws with a thin shim on finished surfaces
• Touch up the edges with a file occasionally to keep the precision feel

The bottom line

The DeWalt 9‑inch claw bar has earned a permanent slot in my pouch. It’s small, sturdy, and thoughtfully shaped for the kind of tasks I run into daily: pulling buried fasteners, working in corners, and removing trim without turning the job into a patch‑and‑paint marathon. The I‑beam shaft adds confidence without extra weight, the strike surfaces make precision tapping straightforward, and the sharpened claws reduce collateral damage when you’re trying to work clean.

Recommendation: I recommend this tool for remodelers, finish carpenters, maintenance techs, and DIYers who value control over brute force. Pair it with a longer flat bar for heavy demo and you’ll have the right tool for nearly any nail‑pulling or small‑scale prying task. It’s not the most powerful bar you’ll own, but for precise, tight‑quarters work, it’s one of the most useful.