DeWalt 42 in. Wrecking Bar

Why this 42-inch bar earned a spot in my demo kit

I picked up this 42-inch wrecking bar for a whole-house gut and promptly put it through the kind of abuse that separates gimmicks from keepers. Long story short: it’s a straightforward, heavy steel bar that puts leverage first and aesthetics a distant second—and that’s exactly what I want in a demo tool.

Build and design

At 42 inches long and about 5.3 pounds, the bar hits a sweet spot for leverage without getting unwieldy. The shaft is steel with a powder-coated finish and a tri-lobe cross-section. That tri-lobe shape isn’t just marketing—under load it resists twist better than a round or flat shaft, and it gives your hands reference points when you’re repositioning mid-pry.

One end carries a curved claw with a 2-inch-wide profile; the other is a pointed, beveled tip. Multiple nail pullers are punched into the body, including slots near each end. There’s also a rounded, 90-degree prying section that works like a fulcrum when you roll the bar—simple geometry that translates to consistent lifting force without a lot of wrist action.

Fit and finish are in line with a jobsite wrecking bar: clean bevels, no sharp burrs on mine out of the packaging, and a bright powder coat that will look beat-up fast (more on that later).

In use: leverage first, finesse second

If you’re buying a 42-inch bar, you want mechanical advantage, and the bar delivers. Framing walls off old sill plates, lifting stubborn subfloor, or persuading a rotted deck ledger to give up its last nails—the tool excels at the “lean on it and listen” moments. I had minimal perceptible flex even when prying up heavy sections of plate and old concrete chunks that easily measured in the triple digits. The tri-lobe shaft keeps the bar from corkscrewing under load, and that translates to a more predictable pry. When you’re wedged under a joist or behind blocking, predictability matters.

The pointed, beveled tip is great for opening seams without a pilot gap. I used the pointed end to start between doubled-up subfloor layers and to break the bond on adhesive-backed trim. It’s thin enough to start but not so thin that it mushrooms at the tip. After several days of pulling and twisting, the bevel still tracked true and didn’t roll.

On the curved claw side, the geometry rewards correct placement. Get the claw set under a plate or behind a ledger board, and the long handle gives you a smooth, controlled lift. The rounded 90-degree section comes into play when you want to “walk” something up in stages without resetting the bite—roll the bar forward, reset the heel, repeat. It’s a small detail that reduces fatigue.

Nail pulling and fastener work

Multiple nail pullers sound like a minor feature until you’re switching tasks every five minutes. The slots fit common framing nails well; for large, ring-shank nails embedded deep, expect to start them with the claw and finish with the slot. On finish nails or smaller brads, the slots are a bit wide, which is typical for a bar this size. You won’t buy this as your dedicated nail puller, but when you need to snag a stubborn fastener without walking back to the toolbox, the options are there and they work.

Because the bar is long and heavy, once you’ve got a nail started, the weight helps carry it through. Just mind your line of pull; with this much leverage, it’s easy to overdo it and shear heads off if you’re not square.

Ergonomics and grip

The tri-lobe cross-section improves grip over a round shaft, especially when you’re sweaty or wearing gloves. That said, the powder-coated finish is slicker than a raw or knurled surface. I noticed it most with bare hands on hot days: you can feel the paint’s gloss. With textured gloves, the slickness is a non-issue; with bare hands, a strip of friction tape or a light scuff with 220-grit sandpaper where you typically hold the bar adds confidence. The diameter is comfortable for two-handed work—one hand near the fulcrum, one near the end—without feeling fatiguing.

Balance is what you expect from a long wrecking bar: most of the mass is in the shaft. That makes it predictable when you’re swinging the pointed end to punch through drywall or plaster, and it helps with the “set and lean” rhythm of prying.

Durability and finish

The bar’s steel has held its shape and alignment after prying against concrete edges, rolling on embedded nails, and generally being treated like a lever, not a collectible. The powder coat does what powder coat does on demolition tools: it chips, scuffs, and wears away on contact points. If you value a pristine look, you will be disappointed within an hour. If you view the finish as sacrificial, you’ll appreciate the initial corrosion protection and move on. After weeks of use, my bar shows cosmetic wear but no rust or structural concerns.

Size choices: 42 inches vs. shorter or longer

Compared with a 30–36 inch bar, the extra length noticeably improves leverage and reduces the number of resets. The tradeoff is maneuverability in tight interiors. If you’re working inside closets, crawlspaces, or between closely spaced studs, the 42-inch length can be awkward. Conversely, if you’re lifting heavy stair treads, nudging cast concrete sections, or popping plates, the 42-inch length is the right call. For most framing and subfloor demo, I like pairing this bar with a smaller flat pry bar for starting seams; the big bar finishes the job.

Real-world tasks it handled well

• Prying up subfloor glued and nailed to old joists: started gaps with a smaller bar, then used the 42-inch bar for the heavy lift. Reduced splintering and left the joists cleaner.
• Dropping drywall ceilings: a couple of pops with the rounded end to create handholds, then controlled prying on the edges. Less dust than full-on smashing, and you keep studs intact.
• Levering out stair stringers and ledger boards: set the curved claw, roll on the 90-degree section, and the bar walks the member away steadily.
• Removing bent and embedded nails: set with the claw, finish with a slot; the long handle gives you the torque to unwind nails without shredding the wood if you plan to salvage.

What could be better

• The powder-coated grip area is slick when wet or with bare hands. Easy fix with tape or gloves, but worth noting.
• The nail puller slots favor framing nails; smaller finish nails aren’t as secure in the slot.
• Length can be a liability in tight interiors. If you only work in confined spaces, a shorter bar may be more practical.

Safety and usage tips

• Let the bar’s length do the work. If you’re straining, reposition for better leverage rather than muscling it.
• Wear gloves with textured palms to counter the slick finish and to protect from sharp debris.
• Use the pointed end to create initial gaps rather than forcing the claw into tight seams—you’ll preserve the bevels and reduce tear-out.
• When pulling nails, keep the bar aligned with the nail’s axis to avoid snapping heads.

Pros

• Excellent leverage with minimal flex
• Tri-lobe shaft improves torsional rigidity and hand indexing
• Versatile ends: curved claw, pointed bevel, and multiple nail pullers
• Rounded 90-degree section makes “walking” a pry easy
• Durable steel construction; holds up under heavy loads

Cons

• Slick powder coat on the grip area until it wears in
• Nail puller slots aren’t ideal for small finish nails
• Awkward in tight spaces due to length

The bottom line

I keep a stable of pry bars, and this 42-inch bar has become the one I reach for when things get stubborn. It prioritizes leverage, strength, and simple, effective geometry over frills. The tri-lobe shaft, curved claw, pointed tip, and multiple nail pullers make it a genuine multi-role demolition tool. The finish will scuff and chip, and it can feel slick barehanded, but those are manageable tradeoffs for the performance you get.

Recommendation: I recommend this bar to anyone tackling structural demo, subfloor and framing removal, or heavy exterior tear-outs where leverage counts. Pair it with a smaller pry bar for starting seams, throw on a pair of textured gloves, and you’ll move faster with less effort. If your work is mostly trim and interior finish in tight spots, consider a shorter bar—but for real demolition, this 42-inch bar earns its space on the truck.