K & S Precision Metals K&S Precision Metals Round Brass Rod Assortment 3405-11 Rods, .02" to 3/16" OD, 12" Length - DIY Crafts, Jewelry, Sculptures, Made in USA

I reach for brass rod more often than I expected—mocking up linkages, pinning scales on small knives, making simple fixtures, even teaching basic mechanics to kids. An assortment saves time and trips, and the K&S brass rod assortment has become my go-to kit for that exact reason.

What’s in the set

You get 11 round rods, each 12 inches long, stepping from fine wire (.020 inch) up to a practical shop size (3/16 inch). The material is alloy 260 (cartridge brass), which is the right balance of strength, workability, and corrosion resistance for small fabrication. The spread of diameters covers most everyday needs: fine control wires, spacer pins, miniature axles, and small bushings. Having all 11 sizes on hand means I can prototype, test fits, and finish parts without waiting on single-length orders.

Fit, finish, and consistency

Out of the package, the rods in my set were straight and clean, with only light handling marks that polish out quickly. Surface finish was smooth enough for immediate use in jigs and linkages. Measured with calipers, my sample diameters were consistent and within the kind of tolerance I expect for hobby and light engineering stock; nothing that caused unexpected slop or press-fit headaches in matched holes.

Length is accurate at 12 inches; ends are saw-cut, so plan on a quick deburr before assembly. I labeled my rods by diameter as soon as I opened the pack—handy when you’ve got similar sizes on the bench. That’s my only early gripe: I’d love clearer size marking on each rod or a printed insert with all the diameters at a glance. The assortment concept works best when you can identify sizes quickly.

Workability: cutting, bending, forming

Alloy 260 is a pleasure to work. Here’s how the set behaved across common operations:

• Cutting: A fine-tooth jeweler’s saw or a Dremel cut-off wheel makes clean cuts with minimal burr on the sub-1/8 inch sizes. For the thicker rods up to 3/16, a fresh hacksaw blade works well. Avoid tube cutters—they’ll flare the ends.
• Deburring and surfacing: Brass loads files quickly; a file card and light pressure keep edges crisp. For small parts, finish with 400–600 grit paper and a scotch-brite pad.
• Bending: Cold bends in 3/32 inch and below are easy with a small mandrel. For tighter radii, a quick anneal (dull red, then air cool) prevents cracking and makes coiling or forming geometry repeatable.
• Drilling: Brass can “grab” as a drill breaks through. Back the workpiece and use a very light feed at exit; split-point bits help. Small numbered bits (e.g., #55–#40) track well in this material.
• Turning: On a mini-lathe, I turned 1/8 inch rod down to 0.100 inch with a sharp HSS tool and a tiny nose radius for a nice finish. Keep speeds moderate; brass doesn’t need the high RPMs that aluminum loves.
• Threading: Shallow threads in the larger sizes are fine with proper lubricant, but this is not the alloy for deep, high-load threads. If you’re making thumbscrews or decorative nuts, it’s great; for structural fasteners, use steel or phosphor bronze.

Joining: soldering and brazing

This assortment shines in assemblies where soldered joints make sense. I silver-soldered a small 1/8 inch frame using a propane/MAP torch, Stay-Clean-style flux, and a silver-bearing filler; capillary action was excellent, and cleanup was minimal. Soft solder also works well for non-structural parts if you use an acid flux formulated for brass. For anything load-bearing, silver brazing produces a much stronger joint. Just mind your heat—brass will zinc-off and discolor if overheated. Work quickly, use plenty of flux, and quench only after the joint has flowed and cooled a bit.

In the shop and classroom

Over a few weeks, I put the kit through a mix of practical projects:

• Knifemaking pins: The 1/8 and 3/16 inch rods make clean, consistent pins for scales. They peen nicely without mushrooming unpredictably.
• Linkages and miniature mechanisms: The mid-sizes are perfect for clevis pins, levers, and simple pivots. Paired with matching drill sizes, I got smooth, free movement without slop.
• Jewelry and decorative work: The smaller diameters roll and twist well for hoops, jump rings, and bezels. Quick hand polish brings up a warm satin finish.
• Teaching demos: A two-pulley rig and a tiny four-bar linkage came together quickly. Students can see friction differences immediately if you alternate brass pins and nylon bushings.

That’s the value of an assortment: you spend time building rather than shopping for one-off sizes.

Strength and limitations

Cartridge brass is not a structural alloy. It’s strong enough for light fixtures, motion transfer, and decorative fasteners, but it will deform under heavy point loads and can tear under aggressive threading or sharp bends without annealing. If you need high-wear shafts, machine bushings, or heavy-duty threaded parts, consider 360 free-machining brass for better chip formation, or step up to steel/bronze depending on the load case.

The other practical limitation is size range. Topping out at 3/16 inch keeps the kit compact and useful for small builds, but you’ll still need separate stock for larger pins or axles.

Precision and tolerances

I measured a handful of rods and found diameters consistent enough for slip- and light press-fit work. For very tight tolerances—say, a true interference fit—you’ll still want to machine to size. In most cases, drilling with a matching fractional, letter, or numbered bit and polishing the rod yields a workable fit. If you’re pairing the small sizes with off-the-shelf bushings, check spec sheets; some bushing lines assume nominal minus a few thousandths.

Safety and handling tips

• Deburr ends immediately to avoid splinters—brass can raise sharp, needle-like burrs.
• Use eye protection; drilling and cutting small diameters can fling chips far.
• When soldering/brazing, ventilate well and avoid overheating to prevent zinc fumes.
• Label each rod on day one. A Sharpie line at the end with the diameter saves guesswork.

Value and who it’s for

As a shop staple, this kit punches above its weight. There’s obvious value in the variety: one package covers a broad set of tasks from jewelry to light mechanical prototyping. If you’re a hobbyist, educator, maker, or a pro who frequently needs small brass features, this assortment reduces downtime and clutter. If your work rarely uses sub-3/16 inch stock or demands tightly controlled alloy/temper certificates, individual rods from a metals supplier may be a better route.

What I’d improve

• Clearer size identification on or within the package.
• A simple reuse-friendly sleeve or divider to keep sizes separated over time.
• Optional variant with a couple of duplicate “high-use” sizes (1/8 inch and 3/16 inch) would be welcome.

None of these are deal-breakers; they’re quality-of-life tweaks that would make a good kit even better.

Recommendation

I recommend the K&S brass rod assortment for anyone who builds small mechanisms, crafts jewelry, teaches basic mechanics, or needs reliable pin and spacer stock on hand. The alloy choice is appropriate, the size range is well-judged for small work, and the rods arrive straight, clean, and ready to fabricate. It’s not a substitute for heavy-duty structural materials or meticulous, certified stock, but as a versatile, ready-to-use kit for prototyping and light duty, it’s excellent.