One-N-Done One N Done Toilet Flange Repair Kit - Toilet Kit For Low or Broken Flange. Toilet Wax Ring Replacement Kit W/Toilet Flange Extender Kit, Easy Toilet Bolts, & Toilet Caps For Bottom of Toilet.

Why I reached for a wax-free flange fix

I like wax rings for their simplicity, but they’re unforgiving. One mis-aimed drop or a wobble on uneven flooring can mean a do-over—plus a mess. My upstairs bath had the trifecta of problems: a low flange sitting below new tile, wobble from years of tiny movements, and the want to avoid future wax struggles. That’s what pushed me to try the One-N-Done kit.

This is a wax-free, self-adjusting seal that locks to your existing flange and mates to the toilet’s horn, designed to work whether the flange is 1/8 inch above the finished floor or as much as 1½ inches below. The package includes the seal and ring assembly, stout plastic closet bolts, locking nuts and caps, and a wire “diamond” saw for trimming the bolts. The pitch is straightforward: set it once, stop guessing at ring height, and get a reusable, centered seal.

What’s in the box and first impressions

• A rigid metal repair ring with a series of mounting holes and elongated slots for bolt position.
• A thick rubber seal that compresses around the horn of the toilet.
• Oversized plastic closet bolts with locking ferrules/nuts and low-profile caps that twist to lock.
• A wire saw for trimming the bolt excess after setting the toilet.

The ring feels substantial. The rubber gasket has enough spring to suggest it will survive multiple compressions. The bolts are plastic, which initially gave me pause, but their diameter and the ferrule system are designed to reduce point-loads on porcelain and simplify alignment.

Installation experience

Prep is everything. I scraped the old wax clean, checked the flange for flatness, and vacuumed the waste opening. My upstairs bath is tile over plywood with a cast-iron flange that sits about a quarter-inch below the tile. That’s a sweet spot for this kit.

The metal ring laid flat once I cleared out some stray grout at the edges. The elongated holes made it easy to find screw locations that weren’t already used or damaged. The included screws would work in wood, but for cast iron I prefer stainless self-tapping screws; I used those instead to secure the ring to the existing flange. If you’re on a slab or concrete subfloor, plan on anchors and possibly a hammer drill.

Installing the bolts is different from the usual T-slot approach. These pass up through the repair ring and lock into position with the supplied ferrules, which effectively hold the bolt upright and centered. It’s simple and avoids the “bolt fell over” dance when you’re lowering the toilet.

Setting the toilet was refreshingly straightforward. Because the seal engages the horn, you don’t need to stack spacers or second-guess wax height. I lowered the bowl straight down, wiggled slightly to feel the gasket compress and seat, and pressed to ensure contact. The ferrule system kept the bolts exactly where I wanted them. I snugged the nuts evenly—hand tight plus a cautious quarter-turn—then trimmed the bolt excess with the included wire saw. The saw works; keep the wire taut and it will zip through the plastic cleanly.

From start to finish (not counting cleaning time), the install took about 30 minutes.

Design notes that matter

• The self-adjusting gasket seals across a wide depth range without spacers or multiple rings. It grips the toilet horn rather than relying solely on vertical compression like wax.
• The ring centers to the flange and locks the bolt position. This helps prevent rotation and wobble, and it makes realignment easier if you ever need to pull the toilet.
• The plastic bolt system reduces the chance of cracking porcelain from over-torque. The ferrules keep bolts upright and aligned during the drop.
• The cap design is thoughtful: quarter-turn to lock, so no fiddly friction-fit caps that pop off later.

Overall, the system trades the one-and-done mushiness of wax for a more engineered fit that you can redo without materials waste.

Performance and sealing

I tested for leaks with a few full-tank flushes while watching the floor perimeter and the basement ceiling below. No issues. The toilet also felt more planted than before; I attribute that to the ring’s ability to flatten and reinforce the flange connection and the consistent compression of the rubber seal.

The other test was the sniff test a week later. No sewer smell, no seepage lines, and the bowl remained stable. I did remove the toilet once after initial install to tweak a supply line; the seal sprung back and reseated without drama. That’s a welcome change from the typical wax routine where “one and done” usually means “one and never touch again.”

Compatibility and limitations

• Flange height: The system is designed for flanges up to 1/8 inch above the floor and down to 1½ inches below. If your flange sits proud of the tile by more than 1/8 inch because of a spacer or an extender, you’ll need to remove that top extension or choose a different approach.
• Subfloor type: Wood is easy. Concrete may require anchors and a hammer drill. Plan accordingly.
• Flange type: I used it on a cast-iron flange. The mounting options and ability to drill new holes in the repair ring make it flexible for most flange types, including offset flanges, provided you can achieve a flat, secure mount.
• Movement tolerance: Like any gasket system, you want to set the toilet straight down. Sliding significantly after initial contact isn’t advisable; dry-fit your bolt spacing and shims (if needed) beforehand.

Tips from the bench

• Clean to bare flange and ensure it’s flat. High spots of grout or old mastic will fight the ring’s seating.
• Dry-fit everything first. Confirm bolt spacing and alignment with the bowl before exposing the gasket to the horn.
• If you’re on cast iron or stainless, use appropriate screws. The included screws are fine for wood, but self-tapping stainless makes a better long-term connection to metal.
• Even torque is key. Alternate sides as you snug the nuts, and don’t overdo it—let the gasket do the sealing.
• If your toilet rocks because the floor is out of plane, shim the base before final tightening and caulk after you’re satisfied with stability.

Wax-free vs wax

Wax is cheap, silent, and proven—but unforgiving. It excels when the flange is at the right height and the floor is true. It’s less friendly if you’re dealing with a low flange, you need to make adjustments after setting, or you want the option to pull the toilet later.

The One-N-Done approach solves those pain points. Height becomes largely irrelevant within the stated range, you can reseat if you make a small placement error, and servicing later doesn’t mean a messy scraping session. On the flip side, wax is a simpler bill of materials, and anyone who installs toilets all day can make wax work reliably. For DIYers and pros who encounter inconsistent substrates, the gasket system is more forgiving.

Durability and reuse

The rubber gasket compresses and returns without noticeable deformation. After two compressions, mine showed no cuts or permanent flattening. The metal ring should outlast the bathroom, and the plastic bolts, while unconventional, feel stout and distribute force well. If you’re worried about bolt strength, remember the clamp load required here isn’t enormous; more force is not better with porcelain.

Value

Factoring in the metal ring, reusable gasket, alignment hardware, and the included trimming saw, the price is fair. If you’ve ever burned through multiple wax rings trying to compensate for flange depth or imperfect floors, you’ll likely come out ahead in time and materials—plus you avoid the cleanup.

The bottom line

I’d recommend the One-N-Done kit to anyone dealing with a low or damaged flange, or to DIYers who want a cleaner, more controllable alternative to wax. It installs quickly, aligns predictably, and seals reliably across a wide range of flange depths. The reusable gasket makes future service less of a headache, and the bolt system reduces the risk of cracked porcelain while making alignment easier.

A few caveats: verify your flange height before you start; if it sits more than 1/8 inch proud, plan on removing any spacer lip or using a different solution. Be ready with appropriate screws for metal flanges, and have anchors if you’re mounting over concrete. Take the time to prep and set the bowl straight down without sliding.

With those considerations in mind, this kit delivered a solid, leak-free install for me, eliminated wobble, and simplified a job I usually approach with a roll of paper towels and crossed fingers. It’s a smart upgrade over wax for imperfect real-world bathrooms and a practical fix for flanges that are low, tired, or a little out of square.