DURALUX Marine Enamel, Haze Gray, 1 Gallon, Topside Paint for Boats and Other Onshore or Offshore Marine Maintenance Applications, Adheres to Steel, Metal, Wood, Fiberglass & Aluminum

Why I reached for this paint

Gray is an honest color for boats, and Duralux’s Haze Gray marine enamel is a straightforward coating with a clear job: protect topsides and hardware from sun, salt, and scuffs. I used it on three surfaces to see how versatile it really is: a fiberglass skiff’s topsides, an aluminum jon boat interior, and a steel winch stand that lives outdoors near brackish water. I was looking for a single-gallon solution that could take a beating, adhere across different substrates, and leave a professional-looking finish without demanding a professional spray booth.

Prep matters more than usual here

This is a solvent-borne alkyd enamel. Like most single-part enamels, surface prep dictates the outcome. What worked for me:

• Fiberglass gelcoat: Deglossed with 220-grit, wiped twice with solvent (a dedicated marine wax and grease remover), then used an epoxy primer. On a test panel, direct application to scuffed gelcoat looked fine but didn’t match the adhesion I got over primer.
• Aluminum: Thorough cleaning, then a light etch (self-etching primer) on bare areas before enamel. Over existing intact paint, I scuff-sanded to a uniform matte.
• Steel: Thorough rust removal (wire wheel to bright metal), solvent clean, and a rust-inhibitive primer.

If you shortcut this step, you’ll likely chase chipping and poor cure. Over properly primed surfaces, the enamel behaves predictably; over glossy or contaminated substrates, it doesn’t.

Application: brush, roll, and spray

Out of the can, the enamel is on the thinner side for a marine paint, which makes it easy to brush but slightly prone to runs if you load it up. It’s very high-gloss. I tried three methods:

• Brush/roll: A 1/4" foam roller with a light tip-off using a good natural-bristle brush gave the best result on the skiff. The paint levels well; brush marks mellow as it sets. Work in small sections and avoid overworking as it tacks.
• Gravity-feed HVLP: Thinned 5–10% with the manufacturer’s reducer, it atomized evenly and laid down a slick finish. Two medium passes beat one heavy pass—this enamel will sag if you push it.
• Straight brush on the steel stand: Fine, but the gloss exaggerates brush strokes in raking light. A quick roller pass helped.

The smell is classic solvent enamel—ventilation is a must. Cleanup with mineral spirits or the recommended thinner.

Coverage, color, and finish

A gallon goes further than I expected. I consistently saw around 325–375 square feet per gallon per coat on smooth, non-porous surfaces; closer to 275 on rough wood. Haze Gray lands on the cool side—neutral enough to pair with white decks and black hardware. The gloss is unapologetic. If you want a satin look, you won’t get it here without additives or an overcoat. The brightness helps spot dings and contaminants while you’re rolling, and it sheds water well.

Dry and cure time

At 72°F and 50% RH, I had it dry to the touch in 6–8 hours, recoat-ready overnight, and handleable the following day. Full cure took time—about 10–14 days before it reached what I’d call “boat hard.” Below 65°F or in high humidity, that timeline stretches. I don’t recommend pushing it back into heavy service before a solid week has passed. Where I was patient, the film cured tough; where I wasn’t, the surface marked more easily.

Adhesion and durability

I ran some informal tests:

• Crosshatch adhesion: Over epoxy primer on fiberglass, excellent—no flaking on tape pull. Direct-to-gelcoat (scuffed), fair—edges lifted slightly. On etched/aluminum-primed surfaces, very good.
• Impact: A dropped socket from knee height on the aluminum bench seat left a tiny divot but didn’t shatter the film. On the fiberglass test panel without primer, a sharp strike could chip to substrate.
• Abrasion: After two weeks of cure, a Scotch-Brite pad dulled the gloss but didn’t cut through. Sand dragged across the jon boat floor scuffed the finish—acceptable for a one-part enamel, not in two-part polyurethane territory.
• Corrosion resistance: On the steel stand (primed), no rust creep at scribe after four weeks outdoors with weekly saltwater misting. The topcoat clearly helped, but the primer is doing the heavy lifting.

Bottom line: over a compatible primer system, the paint holds on. Skip primer on fiberglass or polished aluminum and you’re gambling.

Substrate-specific notes

• Fiberglass: If you only scuff and wipe, expect so-so adhesion and a higher risk of chipping. An epoxy primer transformed performance for me.
• Aluminum: Self-etch primer on bare spots is worth the effort. Direct application over clean, pre-painted aluminum worked fine.
• Steel: Absolutely use a rust-inhibitive primer. The enamel itself resists moisture, but you need that barrier coat.
• Wood: On sealed marine ply, the enamel lays down nicely but will drink more material. Prime first if you want an even sheen with fewer coats.

Weathering and maintenance

UV stability over the first couple of months has been solid—the gloss holds and the color hasn’t chalked. Salt spray rinses off easily, and oily fingerprints wipe clean. I added a fine non-skid additive on a small deck patch and the film accepted it without clumping. Touch-ups blend surprisingly well if you feather the edges and polish after full cure.

Packaging and usability

My can arrived with a minor dent and a slightly sprung lid. The product inside was fine, but plan to strain the paint on first open to catch any skin or metal flecks. The lid reseals tightly, and I had no issues with skinning when I added a dash of thinner and stored the can inverted for short intervals.

Limitations and trade-offs

• Not below the waterline. This is topside paint; continuous immersion is off-label.
• Cure time demands patience, especially in cool or damp conditions.
• High gloss highlights surface defects. If your substrate isn’t fair, it will show.
• Impact resistance is good for a one-part enamel but below a two-part polyurethane or epoxy topcoat.
• Direct-to-slick substrates (gelcoat, polished aluminum) is risky without the right primer.

Tips for best results

• Degrease twice. Wax and contaminants are the silent killers of adhesion.
• Use the right primer for the substrate: epoxy for fiberglass, self-etch for aluminum, rust-inhibitive for steel.
• Keep coats thin and even. Two to three light coats beat one heavy coat.
• Respect recoat windows and give it time to cure before hard service.
• If spraying, strain and reduce per the manufacturer; modest air pressure minimizes orange peel.
• For interiors or decks, consider a non-skid additive to tame the gloss and improve traction.

Value and use cases

As a one-gallon solution for boats and marine-adjacent equipment, this enamel hits a sweet spot: professional-looking finish, broad substrate compatibility, and straightforward application without the complexity of two-part systems. It’s well-suited for small commercial vessels, workboats, trailers, stands, dockside equipment, and personal boats that need a protective refresh rather than a boutique showroom finish. If you demand the ultimate in hardness and chemical resistance, look higher up the coating food chain.

Recommendation

I recommend Duralux’s Haze Gray marine enamel for topside refurbishments and marine hardware where cost, ease of use, and a durable high-gloss finish matter more than absolute hardness. It excels when paired with the right primer and reasonable cure times, offering strong adhesion and credible weather resistance across fiberglass, aluminum, steel, and wood. I wouldn’t choose it for below-waterline applications, for projects that can’t accommodate a week or more of cure, or where the abuse level justifies a two-part polyurethane. Within its intended lane, it’s a dependable, professional-quality coating that upgrades the look and protection of boats and equipment without drama.