DeWalt 28 oz Steel Framing Hammer

First impressions and build

I’ve swung a lot of framing hammers, and this one makes a strong first impression before it ever hits a nail. The head is a full 28 oz and sits on a one-piece steel handle with a heat-treated shaft. The overall length is about 16 inches, so it’s a long-handle driver intended for fast framing work, not a compact remodeler’s hammer. The rip claw is straight and aggressive, and the face is milled. There’s also a tri-pull nail puller integrated into the side of the head and a magnetic nail starter on the crown. Nothing here is gimmicky. It’s a purpose-built tool for moving nails quickly and pulling them with minimal drama.

The one-piece construction is what I expect for a heavy framer. It eliminates the worry of a head loosening on a wood or fiberglass handle. It also tends to transmit more vibration than wood or titanium, so the grip matters. DeWalt’s anti-slip overmold is thick and grippy without feeling gummy. It flares slightly at the end so it stays planted in your hand even when you’re sweaty or working gloveless in the rain.

Swing and driving performance

At 28 oz, this hammer lives on momentum. The balance point is set so the head does most of the work, and the swing feels smooth rather than clubby. If you’re used to a 22 oz or a 15 oz titanium, expect a short acclimation period; once you settle in, the extra head mass is a benefit on dense stock, engineered lumber, and old framing where lighter hammers can bounce.

On site, I drove 16d commons into kiln-dried 2x and into some stubborn old hem-fir. Two to three solid hits per nail is the norm with this hammer, and it shines when you’re toe-nailing. The milled face bites the head and reduces skitters, so you can be a little more aggressive without worrying about glancing. It’s not the fastest in the world if you’re counting swings per minute, but swing efficiency is high. You’ll feel it in your forearms after a long day, yet you’ll also notice you’re not expending as much wrist energy to seat nails.

Grip and vibration

Steel handles can be unforgiving, but the overmold here does a good job of taming sting. Driving into knotty studs or hitting an off-center nail head sends some vibration up the handle, but it’s muted compared to other steel-handled framers I’ve used. The grip texture stays tacky in heat and doesn’t get slick with dust or sweat. After a few weeks, it showed light scuffs but no peeling or shifting.

A couple of practical notes:
- If you’re doing overhead work all day—joists, blocking, tall walls—the 28 oz head will tax your shoulders more than a lighter hammer. Pace yourself.
- If tennis elbow is a concern, you may prefer a lighter titanium or a wood-handled 22 oz for shock reduction.

Nail pulling and on-site utility

The tri-pull side nail puller is more than a bullet point. It’s properly sized for finish nails, framing nails, and even the occasional staple. On flush nails, it grabs quickly and peels them out with a short lever stroke. On partial sinkers, the geometry still gives enough bite to walk a nail out without digging in a separate cat’s paw.

A few usage tips:
- Protect your work: that side puller can dent softwood. Slip a thin scrap under the head when pulling to avoid crush marks.
- For deep, headless, or ring-shank nails, a dedicated nail puller still wins. The side puller is a great first-line tool but not a complete replacement.
- The rip claw is thin enough to slip under most heads with a tap, and the long handle length gives you ample leverage when prying plates or trimming blocks.

Milled face and accuracy

The milled face is crisp and well-cut. It provides the grip you want for framing nails and reduces glances when you’re moving fast or working at awkward angles. The trade-off is the usual one: it will leave marks if you miss, and it’s not the right choice for finish work. If you’re installing structural connectors, be mindful that a milled face can scuff metal. For any task where appearance matters, switch to a smooth-face hammer once nails are started.

I found the sweet spot easy to locate. The face isn’t oversized, which improves precision, and the sideways balance of the head minimizes twist on off-center strikes.

Magnetic nail starter in practice

The magnetic nail starter is built into the top of the head. It holds 8d and 16d nails securely enough that I could start nails one-handed from a ladder without hunting for a second bite. For toe-nailing, it’s especially handy: set the nail, give it a confident tap, then reposition for full swings. The magnet also grabs shorter nails, though shallow heads can drop if you rush.

Two small caveats:
- Debris can collect in the starter slot. Tap it out or blow it clean if nails stop seating fully.
- With very large-head nails or specialty fasteners, the hold is weaker; it’s designed around common framing nails.

Durability and maintenance

One-piece steel hammers are built to take abuse. I didn’t baby this one—demo work, occasional mis-hits on concrete, and pulling oversized fasteners—and it shrugged it off. The milled face will wear down over time (as all milled faces do), but the pattern remained sharp after weeks of framing. The coating on the head and handle took minor scuffs but no chipping. The grip’s overmold felt secure with no rotational creep.

Maintenance is straightforward:
- Wipe down the head at the end of the day to prevent surface rust; a dab of light oil goes a long way.
- If you often work in wet conditions, periodically check the edges of the grip for separation.
- Don’t grind the face to “sharpen” the mill—it compromises heat treat and voids most warranties.

The hammer carries a limited lifetime warranty, which provides some peace of mind for defects, though wear and tear on the face and grip is on you.

Ergonomics, size, and carry

At roughly 16 inches long and a head width around 6 inches, the hammer rides best in an open hammer loop rather than a tight holster. The flared grip catches wide loops when you’re moving fast, which is good for retention but can snag if your loop is narrow. The bright yellow makes it easy to spot in a pile of tools or when you set it down in the grass.

Weight distribution feels right for a power hammer. The moment arm is tuned so you can choke up for control on start swings and slide down to the end of the grip when you need maximum drive. It’s not a nimble interior trim hammer, and it isn’t trying to be.

Who it’s for (and who it’s not)

This framing hammer is for framers, deck builders, and remodelers who want a heavy hitter with integrated pulling features and can handle the mass over a full day. It’s also a solid choice for DIYers who prefer to swing fewer times per nail and don’t mind the extra weight in the tool belt.

It’s not the best match if:
- You primarily do finish carpentry or punch list work where a smooth face is essential.
- You’re sensitive to weight or have elbow/shoulder issues; a lighter or titanium hammer will be kinder over long hours.
- You rely on deep-extraction nail pulling every day; you’ll still carry a dedicated cat’s paw.

The bottom line

After weeks of framing, blocking, and light demo, I keep reaching for this hammer. The combination of a balanced 28 oz head, a truly useful tri-pull nail puller, a secure, vibration-damping grip, and a practical magnetic starter makes it a dependable daily driver for structural work. It’s not flashy, and it doesn’t try to do anything it shouldn’t. It just hits hard, hits accurately, and pulls nails without fuss.

Recommendation: I recommend this framing hammer to anyone doing regular framing or deck work who wants a durable, one-piece steel tool with real pulling capability. Choose it for its driving power, balanced swing, and well-executed side puller. If you need a lighter, all-day hammer or a smooth face for trim, look elsewhere. For its intended job, it’s a straightforward, effective performer that earns its spot on the belt.