PH PandaHall 6.5 FT x 2 Inch Aluminum Flashing Roll Metal Strips 1060 Grade Bendable Pure Aluminium Strip Wire, 0.5mm Aluminum Sheet Metal Raw Roll for Roof Garden DIY Craft, 24 Gauge

What this roll is—and isn’t

I keep a small stash of sheet goods for on-the-spot fixes, and this thin aluminum roll has earned a permanent spot on the shelf. It’s a 2-inch-wide, 0.5 mm (roughly 24 ga) strip of 1060-grade aluminum in a 2-meter length—essentially a lightweight, bendable flashing ribbon. It’s raw, uncoated aluminum, so you can form it, snip it, drill it, paint it, and fasten it with screws or adhesive. Think of it as a utility roll for small flashing jobs, edge protection, quick brackets, and creative DIY applications.

The narrow width is the defining constraint. At 50 mm, it won’t replace standard roof step flashing or broad valley pans. But for trim transitions, edge sealing, patching, and craft or shop tasks, it hits a sweet spot between “stiff enough to hold shape” and “soft enough to form by hand.”

Material and build quality

This roll is 1060 aluminum: high-purity, highly ductile, and very corrosion-resistant. In practice, that translates to:

• Easy bending without cracking or spring-back battles
• Excellent conductivity (handy for heat spreading or grounding in low-current, non-critical applications)
• Strong surface oxidation that self-seals and resists rust

The flip side: 1060 is softer than 3003 or 5052. If you’re expecting structural strength, this isn’t it. It’s a forming metal for skins, shields, wraps, and light brackets.

The thickness—0.5 mm—lands in a versatile zone. I can fold a hem by hand over a scrap of 1x lumber for a clean edge, but the strip still takes screws without tearing when backed by wood or another rigid substrate.

Cutting, forming, and fastening

Working this material is painless:

• Cutting: Tin snips glide through it. For super clean edges, I scored with a sharp utility knife along a straightedge and snapped—works fine at this thickness. A jigsaw with a fine metal blade is overkill but doable.
• Deburring: Edges are sharp. A few quick passes with a file or 180-grit paper make it glove-safe.
• Drilling: Standard twist bits. No drama. Keep scrap wood behind to avoid puckering.
• Bending: A bench brake isn’t necessary. I clamped it between two straight boards and bent by hand for crisp folds. Tight radii are fine; I didn’t see micro-cracking along the bend lines.
• Fastening: It takes screws or pop rivets well. For adhesive, butyl tape, polyurethane construction adhesive, or 3M weatherstrip adhesive all bond nicely to clean, degreased aluminum.

One important note: account for galvanic corrosion if you’re mixing metals outdoors. Use stainless fasteners and isolate dissimilar metals with a barrier tape or sealant.

How I used it

Across a few weeks, I put the roll to work in ways that stress different strengths:

• Gutter workaround: I needed a shield where a downspout interfered with a hose bib on a gable wall. I wrapped a formed “saddle” around the gutter edge, tucked the top behind shingles and fascia, and screwed into the board. Painted with acrylic latex after scuffing and cleaning, it blended right in and has shrugged off wind-driven rain.
• Trim and edge flashing: I bridged a vulnerable joint where a metal panel meets cedar trim. With a small hemmed drip edge and butyl tape underneath, it neatly managed runoff without looking bulky.
• Paint shield: As a masking aid around a rounded wheel rim, a custom-cut ring of this aluminum worked far better than cards or paper. It’s stiff enough to press into a consistent gap and can be taped into a continuous circle.
• Light mounting brackets: I cut and bent a pair of L-brackets for an under-soffit camera. Pre-drilled mounting holes, a small backer plate for stiffness, and it’s been stable. For heavier loads, I’d step up thickness, but for lightweight devices, this was quick and clean.
• Pet-door reinforcement: A narrow strip along the bottom of a flexible flap, riveted through and sealed with weatherstrip adhesive, stopped frayed corners from getting worse.
• Shop and crafts: A couple of rings and bezels for a project prototype formed easily, and the raw aluminum takes a brushed finish well after a sand-through up to 600 grit.

Weather resistance and finishing

Bare aluminum holds up well outdoors; the oxide layer forms quickly and protects the surface. For a finished look, here’s what worked best:

• Surface prep: Degrease with isopropyl alcohol, scuff with 320–400 grit, and wipe clean.
• Primer/paint: A self-etching primer is ideal, but even acrylic latex adhered reliably after proper prep. Light coats reduce runs on thin stock.
• Sealants: Butyl tape under laps and polyurethane on edges give a robust waterproofing strategy.

Thermal movement is real with aluminum—allow for a tiny bit of float if you’re spanning length outdoors.

Where it shines

• Quick flashing and patching: Narrow edge transitions, trim caps, and drip details where wide flashing would look clumsy.
• Tight-radius forming: Chimney cricket details, shingle tuck-ins, or improvised pans where a small bend line is needed.
• Lightweight brackets and straps: When corrosion resistance and formability matter more than strength.
• Masking and shielding: Heat shields, paint barriers, and abrasion guards.
• Hobby and craft work: Jewelry, bezels, small enclosures, decorative trim.

Limitations to be aware of

• Width: At 2 inches, it’s not a general-purpose roofing solution. For code-compliant flashing on roofs, you typically need wider stock.
• Thickness: 0.5 mm is not structural. It can crease under point loads and will oil-can over wide spans without backing.
• Softness of 1060: That’s the feature and the limitation. It forms beautifully but isn’t as dent-resistant as harder alloys.
• Edge safety: Raw cuts are sharp. Plan on deburring, especially for exposed or handled edges.

Tips for best results

• Hem your edges: A simple 5–7 mm hem increases rigidity, improves safety, and gives a professional look.
• Back it up: Where you’re screwing into it, use a wood substrate or an aluminum backer plate to prevent tearing under load.
• Avoid galvanic pairs: Use stainless fasteners and a barrier when mounting to steel, copper, or treated lumber in wet environments.
• Keep it straight: For long runs, unroll and let it relax before forming. Light hand-straightening works because the stock is compliant.
• Paint prep matters: Clean, scuff, and prime for durable coatings.

Value and alternatives

As a narrow, bendable flashing roll for small projects, this sits in a convenient niche. If you need broader coverage or more rigidity, step up to wider coil stock or a harder alloy/greater thickness. If you only need discreet patches, this narrow roll is more efficient than buying and storing full-width aluminum coil.

Who it’s for

• DIYers: For home maintenance tasks, trim transitions, patching, and paint shielding.
• Makers and hobbyists: For quick brackets, craft components, and prototypes.
• Trades needing on-the-spot fixes: It’s a useful “just-in-case” roll for solving small waterproofing and trim problems without hauling full sheets.

If your use cases lean toward structural bracketing, heavy loads, or official roofing details requiring specific dimensions and codes, look elsewhere or move up in thickness and width.

Recommendation

I recommend the PH PandaHall aluminum flashing roll for small to medium tasks where formability, corrosion resistance, and ease of use matter more than brute strength. The 2-inch width and 0.5 mm thickness make it ideal for edge flashing, trim details, shielding, and light-duty brackets. It cuts cleanly with tin snips, takes fasteners without fuss, accepts paint after proper prep, and stands up to weather. Just respect its limits: it’s not a structural solution and it’s too narrow for many roofing applications. Within its lane, though, it’s a remarkably handy roll to have on hand.