K & S Precision Metals K&S Precision Metals Brass Channel 9885 - 1/8" x 1/8" Legs, .014" Wall, 12" Long - DIY Projects, Construction, Cabinetry, Furniture, Made in USA

I reach for small brass channel more often than I expected. As trim, as an edge protector, as a tiny guide rail—brass brings a blend of machinability, solderability, and polishable good looks that’s hard to beat at this scale. The K&S brass channel in the 1/8 x 1/8 profile with a .014-inch wall has become a staple on my bench for those reasons, and after putting it through several projects—woodworking inlays, a small model jig, and a prototype drawer guide—I’ve got a good sense of where it excels and where to be cautious.

What you’re getting

This is a 12-inch U-channel with legs measuring 1/8 inch and a nominal wall thickness of .014 inch (about 0.36 mm). In practice, that wall thickness makes it light and very easy to work—arguably the defining characteristic of this piece. Measured with calipers, the interior width on my sample landed right around 0.097–0.100 inches, which tracks with the stated geometry (1/8 inch minus two wall thicknesses). That predictability matters if you’re planning slip fits for inlays or mating with thin stock like veneer, plastic sheet, or shim brass.

The brass itself machines like you’d expect from hobby-grade channel: crisp edges, consistent legs, and a mill finish that takes well to sanding and polish. It’s not a structural piece. Think decorative trim, small guides, and light-duty reinforcement rather than load-bearing frames.

Fit and finish

Out of the package, the legs were square and uniform along the length with minimal burr at the cut ends. The mill finish had faint draw marks but no gouges. After a quick pass with 800–1000 grit and a metal polish, it comes up bright and even. If you want to lock in that shine, a wipe-on clear lacquer or shellac does the trick and slows tarnish without dulling the look.

Straightness is generally good, but this is a thin-walled, small-section profile—its biggest vulnerability is being bent in transit. My piece arrived with a very gentle arc; nothing dramatic, but enough that for inlay work I wanted it truer. It straightened easily with a soft-jaw vise and two scrap hardwood blocks. More on that in a moment.

Working the channel: cutting, drilling, and deburring

At .014 inches, cutting cleanly matters to avoid flared lips. Here’s what worked well for me:

• Best cut: a jeweler’s saw or razor saw with fine teeth. It yields square ends with almost no distortion.
• Fast cut: a rotary tool with a thin cutoff wheel, followed by light deburring. Clamp carefully to avoid chatter.
• Avoid: standard side cutters or snips—the squeeze tends to pinch and splay the channel, especially near the cut.

After cutting, I use a small needle file to break the edges and a countersink by hand to kiss the lips. A few strokes with 600–800 grit wrapped around a popsicle stick smooths everything up. If you need to drill, back the channel with a hardwood block so the bit doesn’t collapse the legs. A sharp bit at low pressure and a touch of cutting fluid keeps holes tidy.

Bending and forming

This is a very bendable channel. You can form it around a relatively tight radius without cracking, provided you support it to prevent kinks. I had success forming a gentle curve for a box-lid inlay using a hardwood jig and a 6 mm dowel as a mandrel. I taped the legs to prevent marring and worked slowly, checking for symmetry. Spring-back was minimal at this wall thickness.

For tighter bends, use a form block or a small bending brake with smooth jaws. If you notice the brass work-hardening and resisting, a quick anneal (heat to a dull red and allow to air cool) restores ductility—but be mindful that heat will discolor the brass; you’ll need to polish afterward. For super-crisp bends without leg collapse, filling the channel with a low-melt alloy (like bismuth-based fusible metal) works beautifully, though that’s a more advanced trick.

Joining: soldering and adhesives

One of the joys of brass is how easy it is to join. I’ve soldered this channel to flat brass stock and to small brass pins using a small iron and a dab of acid flux. With a thin wall like this, heat control is key—get in, flow, and get out. If you’re joining to wood or plastic, skip heat and use CA glue for quick placement or epoxy for a bit more working time and gap-filling. Lightly scuff the mating surface with fine abrasive for better adhesion.

If you want invisible joints on highly visible trim, pre-tin both parts, clamp firmly with alignment blocks, and reflow with minimal additional solder. Clean thoroughly to remove flux residue before finishing.

Real-world uses

• Woodworking trims and inlays: I inlaid a pair of 8-inch strips on a walnut keepsake box lid. The bright brass line gives a crisp, modern accent, and the channel profile adds a subtle shadow line that flat strip can’t.
• Modelmaking: As a guide rail on a small measuring jig, the channel keeps a sliding pointer square. It’s not rigid enough to resist heavy pressure, but it’s perfect for low-force guides.
• Edge protection: On thin veneers or exposed edges of plywood dividers, the channel takes the abuse and looks good doing it.
• Light architectural accents: On a scaled mock-up, I used it to frame a miniature panel—easy to miter, easy to glue, and convincing once polished.

It’s also conductive, so it can serve as a decorative ground bus in small mock-ups, but the thin wall means I’d keep it strictly in the low-current, purely demonstrative realm.

Straightening and handling

Because thin brass will remember every bump, handling matters. My piece, as mentioned, arrived with a slight bow. To correct it:

1. Lay the channel in a V-groove cut into a scrap of hardwood.
2. Place a second scrap on top to distribute pressure.
3. Lightly clamp in a vise, checking frequently; don’t overdo it.
4. For tiny wobbles, thumb-pressure over a flat steel rule works.

If yours shows a crease rather than a gentle arc, it’s harder to rescue. I recommend asking for rigid packaging when ordering or picking it up locally when straightness is critical. Once you’ve got it true, store it in a PVC tube or taped to a stiff board until use.

Durability and finish longevity

Brass at this thickness is about aesthetics and light-duty function. It will dent under impact and can deform if pried. In normal use as trim or a guide, it holds up well. Uncoated brass will develop a warm patina; if you prefer bright, wipe with metal polish and seal with a clear lacquer. In kitchen or bath settings, consider a clear coat to fend off tarnish from moisture and oils.

Limitations and trade-offs

• Thin wall: Excellent for easy forming and low visual mass, but not for structural demands.
• Short length: Twelve inches is convenient for small projects; for longer runs, you’ll need multiple pieces and careful jointing.
• Shipping sensitivity: Without rigid packaging, it’s easy to arrive with a bow. Plan on light straightening or buy in-store when possible.

If you need more rigidity, step up to a thicker wall or a larger profile. If weight and corrosion resistance trump solderability, aluminum U-channel is a solid alternative, but it won’t polish or solder like brass.

The bottom line

The K&S brass channel hits a sweet spot for small-scale projects: easy to cut and bend, predictable in dimension, and handsome once finished. Its thin wall is both its strength and its caveat—fantastic for delicate trim and light-duty guides, but not something you lean on for strength. My experience was overwhelmingly positive, with only the expected care needed around straightness and handling.

Recommendation: I recommend this brass channel to modelers, craft-oriented fabricators, and woodworkers who want a clean, workable brass accent or a light guide in a compact size. It’s easy to shape, finishes beautifully, and maintains consistent dimensions. Just be mindful of shipping-related bends and plan to straighten or source locally when a dead-straight piece is critical.