Pixelman Universal Car Rear View Camera License Plate Bracket,Upgraded Full Stainless Steel Backup Camera Mount Dash Cam Mirror Camera Accessory Rear Camera Mount,Only Installation Holder for Back Up Camera

A simple way to mount a small camera where you actually want it

Mounting a tiny backup camera cleanly is often harder than wiring it. I picked up the Pixelman license plate bracket to solve exactly that problem on two vehicles: a compact hatch with a tricky trunk latch and an older sedan whose existing camera mount had failed. In both cases, this bracket gave me a straightforward, solid way to put a camera dead center on the plate without drilling into trim or plastic.

This is a mount only—no camera included—and it’s designed around a US-style license plate. The key spec to check before you buy is the camera’s mounting pattern: it fits cameras that use two small screws spaced 13 mm apart. Many “rear camera” modules bundled with dash cam kits use that pattern; both of mine did.

What’s in the kit and first impressions

In the box, I found the stainless steel bracket that sandwiches behind the plate, a small camera holder that attaches in the center, stainless mounting screws for the camera, and a tiny screwdriver. Everything in my set was black, which blends well with most plates and frames.

The bracket itself is thin but not flimsy. I’d describe the finish as functional rather than fancy—it’s not a showpiece, but the edges were clean and there were no burrs to cut hands or snag wires. The hardware being stainless is a big plus for anything that lives on the rear of a car.

Compatibility and placement

• US plates only. The hole spacing and form factor line up with US license plates. It won’t match non‑US plate standards.
• 13 mm camera hole spacing. Measure your camera’s mounting tabs; 13 mm center-to-center is required.
• Orientation flexibility. You can mount the bracket “right side up” or flipped. On my hatchback, flipping it gave me better access to the trunk latch without blocking the camera’s view.

The camera holder positions the lens in the plate’s centerline. On both installs, that gave me an accurate, symmetrical view with easy angle adjustment.

Installation: quick, mostly tool-free

Install time was about 15 minutes per vehicle, not counting cable routing:

1. Remove the license plate.
2. Slip the bracket behind the plate, lining up the plate holes.
3. Reinstall the plate and tighten its screws firmly; the bracket’s stability depends on this.
4. Mount the camera to the small holder using the provided screws.
5. Adjust the tilt and test the video feed before final tightening.

A few practical tips:
- Dry-fit and power the camera first. It’s easy to accidentally mount some cameras upside down or mirrored; test the image and flip the camera or its software setting before tightening.
- Don’t overtighten the tiny camera screws. Stainless threads are tougher than the camera’s brass inserts.
- Use a dab of dielectric grease on connectors and add a small drip loop in the cable to keep water away from the plug.
- If you use a plate frame, confirm it doesn’t block your camera’s field of view.

On the hatchback, I had to flip the bracket to keep the release handle accessible. The bracket offers enough clearance to do this without interfering with the plate or the camera’s angle adjustment.

Fit, adjustability, and image framing

The little camera holder provides several degrees of up/down tilt, which was enough to dial in the view on both cars. On a lowered sedan, I aimed slightly upward to see more traffic and less bumper. On the taller hatch, a more downward angle helped with parking lines and trailer hitches.

Because the camera sits just below or above the plate center (depending on your flip), the image is where your brain expects it: centered, level, and consistent. That beats improvised stick-on mounts that can skew the view off to one side.

One note on mirror dash cam setups: mounting the rear camera at plate level can sit below the headlight cutoff of the cars behind you. At night, that sometimes meant more glare and a darker road scene than a higher, glass-mounted placement. The picture was still usable for reversing and incident capture, but if your priority is a crystal-clear rear feed at night, a higher mounting location is better.

Stability and vibration

Once the plate screws were snug, the bracket didn’t move. Road vibration was minimal on the sedan. On the hatch, the rear bumper and plate frame had a bit more shake on rough roads, which showed up as mild jitter in the video. That’s pretty typical of plate-mounted cameras; the body or glass generally vibrates less than the bumper area. If you plan to record silky rear footage for a mirror dash cam, consider a more rigid mounting point. For parking and reversing, this bracket is solid.

Materials and weather resistance

The all-stainless construction is the right choice here. After a few weeks of fall rain and highway grime, there was no rust or discoloration. The black coating looks like paint rather than a heavy powder coat. I expect it to scuff faster than a premium finish, but the underlying stainless should keep corrosion at bay. If you’re particular about cosmetics, a quick wipe during car washes and avoiding abrasive brushes will help it stay presentable.

Quality control note

I installed two units. The first lined up perfectly. On the second, the camera holder’s holes were a hair off-square, which canted the camera a couple degrees. I was able to correct the level by loosening the screws and nudging the camera before tightening, but it’s worth eyeballing alignment before buttoning up. It’s a minor nit, and once adjusted, it stayed put.

Cable routing and legality considerations

The bracket doesn’t include a dedicated cable channel, but there’s enough open space for the camera lead to pass behind the plate. Route the cable so it doesn’t pinch under the plate or rub on the bumper edge. A short length of split loom or fabric tape goes a long way to prevent chafe.

As always, make sure the camera and bracket don’t obscure your state registration stickers or plate characters. On both my installs, the camera sat clear of the tags.

Where it shines and where it doesn’t

Strengths:
- Fast, no-drill mounting using existing plate holes
- All stainless hardware and bracket resist rust
- Centered, repeatable camera placement with useful tilt adjustment
- Works with common 13 mm mount dash cam rear cameras
- Orientation flexibility helps with trunk latch clearance

Trade-offs:
- Plate-level placement can pick up more vibration than body/glass mounts
- The black finish is serviceable but not premium
- You must verify that 13 mm hole spacing; there’s no alternative slot pattern
- US plates only; not suitable for non-US plate standards

Who should use this

• Anyone adding a backup camera to a car without a factory mount point
• Dash cam users upgrading the bundled adhesive tab to a more secure mount
• DIYers who want to avoid drilling trim or body panels
• Owners of older vehicles where bumper plastics don’t hold adhesive well

If your goal is the steadiest possible footage for a mirror dash cam and you’re comfortable running a wire to the rear glass, a higher mount may serve you better. Otherwise, this bracket is the cleanest low-effort option I’ve used.

Final thoughts and recommendation

The Pixelman license plate bracket does exactly what a good mounting accessory should: it makes placement predictable, installation simple, and long-term durability a non-issue. It’s not flashy, but the all-stainless build, sensible geometry, and included hardware (down to the tiny screwdriver) make the job easy. I especially appreciate the ability to flip the bracket to clear hatch latches and still keep the camera centered.

I recommend this bracket for anyone in the US who needs a sturdy, no-drill solution for a small rear camera with 13 mm mounting holes. It’s a practical, durable mount that solves a common problem cleanly, with only minor compromises around finish and potential plate-level vibration. For most backup camera installs, that’s a very fair trade.