jelkuz Rear Camera Holder Dash Cam Car Rear Camera Rear Window Bracket Backup Camera Mount 【Strong Adhesive】 180° Adjustment Rearview Camera Bracket Rear Windshield for SUV, Truck, RV, Auto

Why I tried the Jelkuz rear camera bracket

Rear dash cam and backup camera installs are often simple in theory and fiddly in practice. SUVs and trucks complicate things further with steep rear glass, large tailgates, spare tires, and wipers. I’ve tried suction cups and improvised metal tabs; none inspired much confidence over time. I picked up the Jelkuz rear camera bracket to clean up a couple of installs—one on an SUV with a sliding rear window and another on a vertical truck rear glass—and give the cameras a solid, adjustable anchor without drilling.

Design and build

The Jelkuz bracket is a compact, black polymer mount with a hinged design that offers 0–180 degrees of adjustment. It’s intentionally simple: a flat base with high-strength double-sided adhesive and a small arm ending in a mounting plate for the camera. The mounting plate uses screw holes aimed at the common “fixed metal plate” style that many mini rear cameras and dash cam rear modules use. The brand includes the necessary screws and even a small screwdriver, so you can go from box to installed without hunting for tiny hardware.

It’s worth noting this bracket is plastic, not metal. That keeps weight down and makes it less conspicuous on glass, and it doesn’t rattle. The hinge uses friction rather than detents; out of the box, it was tight enough to hold angle without sagging. The overall footprint is small, so it doesn’t block the view through the rear window, and the matte finish blends into most interiors.

Setup and installation

Adhesive-backed mounts succeed or fail on surface prep and patience. Here’s what worked for me:

• Pick the spot with intention. I mocked up the angle with painter’s tape and a temporary hold to confirm the field of view and cable routing. On a Toyota with a roll-down rear window, I mounted the bracket on the upper interior frame instead of the glass so I could still drop the window. On a vertical truck rear glass, I placed it high and centered.
• Clean thoroughly. I used an alcohol wipe and a lint-free cloth to get the glass squeaky clean. If there’s tint film, keep the pad on the film rather than bridging onto bare glass to avoid uneven adhesion. Also avoid crossing defroster lines where possible.
• Set your angle first. Before peeling the backing, loosely attach the camera to the bracket and pre-set the hinge to roughly the right tilt. Small adjustments are easy later, but getting close up front saves time.
• Stick and press. After peeling the adhesive liner, I pressed the base firmly for about 30–45 seconds, focusing pressure toward the edges.
• Let it cure. The adhesive grabs immediately, but I left it for a full 24 hours before driving. That waiting period is the difference between a mount that lasts and one that drifts.

The included screws matched both of my cameras’ plates. I snugged them by hand until secure—don’t over-torque, as you’re threading into a small plate. Cable management was straightforward: I tucked the run under trim and used small adhesive clips to keep slack from tugging on the hinge.

On-road performance

Once cured, the bracket didn’t budge. Over speed bumps, washboard gravel, and daily commuting, the hinge held its set angle and the adhesive base stayed firm. Video from the rear dash cam was stable with no jitter attributable to the mount. On the vertical glass, the full 0–180-degree range was helpful; I could tilt exactly to center the horizon even with the steep rake. On the SUV with a spare tire and a center brake light, I mounted high and tilted slightly downward to clear both obstructions—the hinge gave me enough flexibility to fine-tune the frame.

A small but welcome detail: because the bracket is lightweight and close to the glass, it doesn’t resonate like some longer metal arms I’ve tried. And unlike suction cups, it isn’t affected by cabin temperature swings once the adhesive has set.

Compatibility notes

The bracket targets cameras that attach via a small, flat metal plate with screw holes—common on rear modules for dash cams and many aftermarket backup cameras. If your camera uses a proprietary ball joint, clip-only shoe, or a magnetic puck, you’ll need an adapter. Before you buy, check the hole spacing and whether your camera came with a detachable metal foot. If it did, this will likely work. If you’re starting from scratch with a bare mini camera PCB, you’ll need a plate.

The bracket’s range of motion also makes it suitable for unconventional placements: top of the window frame, steeply raked glass, or even the roof interior just behind the glass if you have a roll-down rear window. If you plan to place it outside (it is rated for inside or outside), prep is even more critical and you should expect to replace the adhesive over time. I stayed inside the cabin for longevity and cleaner wiring.

Durability and heat resistance

I installed one bracket in late summer and parked in direct sun. The adhesive didn’t soften or creep, and the hinge stayed tight. The manufacturer calls out stronger, temperature-resistant double-sided tape; while they don’t specify a brand, it performed like high-quality VHB-style adhesive in my testing. As with any adhesive mount, cold-weather installs can be tricky. If you must install in winter, warm the glass and the adhesive pad before sticking.

After a few weeks, I checked torque on the camera screws and the hinge tension. Both remained unchanged. If you drive frequently on rough roads, I recommend a drop of low-strength thread locker on the camera screws and making sure the cable has enough slack so it doesn’t tug on the mount.

What could be better

A few trade-offs come with the minimalist design:

• Plastic vs. metal: The polymer body has been solid for me, but if you’re mounting a heavier camera or want maximum rigidity for long-term outdoor use, a metal variant would offer more peace of mind. The brand offers one; consider it if you’re especially hard on gear.
• Single adhesive pad: The base relies entirely on one pad. It’s strong, but you only get one clean placement. Make sure the angle and location are right before committing. I’d love to see a spare pad in the box for future relocations.
• Camera interface tolerance: The slotted plate aims to fit a broad range of small cameras, which is great for compatibility but can leave a little lateral play depending on your camera’s foot. Tightening the screws solved it for me, but some cameras may benefit from a thin rubber washer between the plates.

None of these were dealbreakers in my installs, and they’re mostly considerations rather than flaws.

Who it’s for

• SUV and truck owners who need a tidy, drill-free way to mount a rear camera on steep or vertical glass.
• Anyone installing a rear dash cam in a vehicle with a sliding rear window or obstructions like a spare tire and third brake light.
• DIYers who want reliable adhesion, stable footage, and the flexibility to aim precisely for the best field of view.

It’s less ideal if your camera uses a proprietary mount with no screw-on plate, or if you need frequent repositioning; adhesive mounts are meant to be “set and forget.” If you anticipate moving it often, consider a mechanical clamp solution instead.

Final recommendation

I recommend the Jelkuz rear camera bracket. It solved the two problems that usually send me hunting for a custom solution: getting the right angle on tricky rear glass and keeping the camera locked down without drilling. Installation is quick if you prep the surface and let the adhesive cure, adjustment range is generous, and once set, it stays put—even in heat and over rough roads. While the plastic build won’t satisfy every heavy-duty use case, it’s discreet, stable, and compatible with the most common small rear camera plates. For most SUV, truck, and RV installs where a clean, interior, adhesive-based mount makes sense, this bracket is an easy, reliable choice.