Viemior Universal Car Rear View Camera License Plate Bracket, Premium Backup Camera License Plate Dash Cam Mirror Cam Accessory Rear Camera Mount, Only Installation Holder for Back Up Camera

Why I reached for this bracket

I’ve retrofitted more than a few older vehicles with backup cameras, and the part that always slows me down isn’t wiring—it’s mounting the camera cleanly without drilling into painted trim. That’s where this Viemior license-plate camera bracket earned a spot in my kit. It’s a simple metal plate that sits behind a U.S. license plate and provides a solid, centered mount for a small rear camera. No new holes in the vehicle, no flimsy plastic frame to crack, just a straightforward way to secure a camera exactly where it should be: dead center at the plate.

The setup experience

Installation is pleasantly uneventful. I removed the two plate screws, slipped the bracket behind the plate, and reinstalled the screws. From there, the camera attaches to the bracket using two screws with a 0.51-inch hole spacing. The bracket includes a small screwdriver; it’s not a shop-grade driver but it’s exactly what you need for the included fasteners.

Most cars have a pass-through behind the plate for factory wiring or plate lights. I routed the camera cable through that opening and into the trunk, then secured slack with a couple of zip ties. Total time on the car was under ten minutes once I had power and video routed to the head unit. The no-drill design is the real win here—you can undo the whole thing without leaving a mark if you ever upgrade the camera or sell the car.

Fit, compatibility, and the one measurement that matters

There are two compatibility checks you should make before you buy:

• Plate size: This bracket is sized for U.S. plates only. If you’re working on a vehicle with non-U.S. plate dimensions, it won’t fit correctly.
• Camera mount spacing: The bracket’s camera mounting holes are 0.51 inches apart. That’s not universal, so measure your camera’s mount carefully. If your camera uses a different pattern (slotted single screw, 0.75-inch spacing, or a surface mount style), you’ll need an adapter or a different bracket.

On the cars I tested, the bracket stacked fine behind the plate without needing longer screws; however, if your plate screws barely bite into the body threads, you may need slightly longer replacements to accommodate the added thickness. I recommend stainless steel screws to avoid rust.

One note: the bracket adds a little thickness at the top/bottom edges of the plate. It didn’t obscure any numbers or letters on my installs, but it does frame the plate slightly. If your state is strict about plate frames or borders, give the finished look a quick check.

Adjustability and image alignment

The bracket’s tilt range is generous. Once the camera is secured, I could angle it downward for bumper-level coverage or dial it flatter for a longer view down the lane. I aimed for a view that just clipped the top of the bumper in the lower frame; that gives a consistent reference point for distance and avoids distortion.

Before you tighten everything down, check camera orientation. Many cameras are configurable between “mirror” and “normal” image, and some can be rotated in their clamps. Power up the screen, verify the text in the feed isn’t inverted, and confirm left/right orientation is correct for a rear camera. It’s much easier to catch this while you still have tools in hand.

Build quality and weather resistance

Metal matters here. I’ve used plastic plate brackets that work fine until the first cold snap or a slightly overtightened screw; hairline cracks become wobbles, and then the camera vibrates every time you shut the trunk. This bracket is metal, corrosion-resistant, and feels solid once cinched down. The black finish blends behind dark or light plates without drawing attention.

After a few weeks of wet weather and a couple of touchless car washes, I’ve seen no rust blooming around the mounting points. As a precaution, I added a tiny dab of anti-seize on the plate screws and a drop of thread locker on the camera screws to keep vibrations from loosening anything. Not required, but it’s a good habit.

On-road performance

A bracket shouldn’t change picture quality, and this one doesn’t. What it does is keep the camera locked in place—no creeping tilt over time, no rattles. The centered position behind the plate is ideal for aligning guide lines from most aftermarket head units. If your camera has a wide field of view, the bracket’s adjustability lets you aim low enough to minimize fisheye distortion while still covering the area right behind the bumper.

Because the bracket sits behind the plate, it doesn’t protrude much. I didn’t have any interference with trunk handles, license plate lights, or hatch mechanisms. If you use a thick decorative plate frame, be mindful that you’re stacking frame + plate + bracket; in tight recesses, that can get snug.

Practical considerations and small trade-offs

• Thickness: The bracket is a bit thicker than the flimsy plastic options. It’s sturdier, but it does create a slightly more pronounced border behind the plate. On my installs, it was purely cosmetic.
• Screws: Plan for screw length. Most factory plate screws are fine, but if you’re right at the limit, bring an extra set a few millimeters longer.
• Cable strain relief: Route the cable so it doesn’t pinch between the plate and the body. A small adhesive-backed cable clip behind the plate helps.
• Only rear use: This mount is intended for the rear. For front cameras, look for a different style that accounts for the different viewing orientation and mounting geometry.

Who it’s for—and who should look elsewhere

This bracket shines for anyone adding an aftermarket backup camera to a U.S.-plate vehicle and wanting a clean, reversible install. It’s especially helpful on older cars, trucks, and vans where there’s no factory camera location and you’d rather not drill into a bumper or trim piece.

If your camera uses anything other than the 0.51-inch two-hole pattern, this isn’t the right pick. And if you’re outside the U.S. or working with non-standard plate sizes, you’ll want a region-specific bracket.

Tips for a faster, cleaner install

• Test on the bench: Power the camera and screen before mounting to confirm orientation and guide-line settings.
• Mark your angle: Once you find the ideal tilt, add a tiny pencil mark on the bracket so you can return to it if you adjust later.
• Use the plate light opening: It’s usually the easiest pass-through for the cable without drilling new holes. Add a rubber grommet if needed to protect the wire.
• Secure the cable: Zip-tie the cable to existing harnesses inside the trunk to keep it from flapping and wearing through.
• Check night visibility: After dark, confirm the plate lights aren’t causing glare or washing out the image. A slight tilt tweak usually fixes it.

Bottom line and recommendation

The Viemior license-plate camera bracket does exactly what I want a mounting solution to do: it installs quickly, holds the camera securely, and avoids permanent changes to the vehicle. The metal construction is a meaningful upgrade over the common plastic frames, and the tilt range makes it easy to dial in a useful field of view. I appreciate the small touches—like including a screwdriver—and the bracket disappears visually once installed.

There are a couple of caveats. The 0.51-inch camera mount spacing is non-negotiable—measure your camera before you commit. And the added thickness behind the plate is noticeable if you look for it, though it didn’t obscure any characters on my installs. Beyond that, it’s a straightforward, durable solution for a problem most DIYers face when adding a backup camera.

Recommendation: I recommend this bracket for anyone in the U.S. adding a rear camera and wanting a no-drill, centered mounting point with solid metal construction. It’s reliable, easy to install, and it keeps your options open for future upgrades. If your camera’s mounting pattern doesn’t match or you need a front-camera solution, look elsewhere; otherwise, this is an easy win.