What’s the proper way to paint a room?

Short answer

Paint a room by prepping thoroughly (clean, patch, sand, and prime), protecting surfaces, then paint in this order: ceiling, walls, and finally trim/doors. Use quality tools, cut in edges with a brush, roll the main areas with the correct nap, keep a wet edge, apply two coats, and remove tape carefully while the paint is slightly tacky.

What you’ll need

• Materials:
  • Interior paint: ceiling (flat), walls (eggshell/satin), trim/doors (semi-gloss)
  • Primer: PVA for new drywall; stain-blocking (shellac or oil) for stains/knots; bonding primer for glossy surfaces
  • Spackle/patching compound, caulk (paintable latex), wood filler (for trim)
  • Painter’s tape (choose delicate-surface for fresh paint)
  • Drop cloths (canvas) and/or rosin paper for floors
• Tools:
  • 9" roller frame with extension pole; roller covers (3/8" nap for smooth walls, 1/2" for lightly textured)
  • 2–2.5" angled sash brush for cutting in; 1–1.5" brush for trim details
  • Paint tray with liners or a 5-gal bucket with a roller grid
  • Putty knife, 5-in-1 tool, sanding block (120–220 grit), tack cloth or microfiber
  • Caulk gun, utility knife, stud finder (optional for wall fixes)
  • Ladder/step stool (Type II or I rating), rags, mild detergent
  • PPE: safety glasses, dust mask/respirator (N95 for sanding), gloves

Prep and protect (don’t skip this)

1. Clear the room or move furniture to the center and cover with plastic. Protect floors with canvas drop cloths or rosin paper taped at seams. Plastic alone can be slippery; canvas grips better.
2. Remove switch/outlet plates; cover devices with tape. If removing light fixtures, turn off power at the breaker.
3. Clean walls and trim with a mild detergent solution, especially in kitchens/baths. Rinse and let dry.
4. Repair defects:
   • Fill nail holes and dents with spackle; deeper holes may need two applications.
   • Sand patches smooth (120–220 grit). Feather edges to blend.
   • Caulk gaps at trim with paintable latex caulk. Tool smooth with a damp finger.
5. Scuff glossy surfaces lightly for grip. Vacuum dust and wipe with a damp cloth or tack cloth.
6. Mask where needed: baseboards, window/door hardware, and clean lines for feature walls. Press tape firmly with a putty knife to seal the edge.

Primer: when and what to use

• New drywall: use a PVA drywall primer for uniform sheen.
• Stains (water, smoke, knots): spot-prime with stain-blocking primer (shellac or oil-based works best for heavy stains).
• Glossy or previously oil-painted trim: use a bonding primer after scuff-sanding.
• Drastic color changes: tint the primer toward the finish color to reduce coats.

Coverage & conditions
- Paint coverage: ~350–400 sq ft per gallon (per coat)
- Wall area estimate: (Room perimeter × wall height) − window/door areas
- Ideal conditions: 50–85°F, relative humidity < 65%
- Roller nap:
  - 1/4–3/8" for smooth walls/ceilings
  - 1/2" for light texture
  - 3/4"+ for heavy texture

Paint order and technique

1. Ceiling first:
   • Cut in edges with an angled brush, then roll. Use flat ceiling paint to hide imperfections.
2. Walls next:
   • Cut in around ceilings, corners, and trim with a 2–3" band.
   • Roll walls in sections about 3×3 feet using a W/M pattern, then lay off lightly in one direction. Keep a wet edge to avoid lap marks.
   • Apply a second coat after the first is dry to the touch and can be recoated (check can; typically 2–4 hours for latex).
3. Trim and doors last:
   • Lightly sand between coats on trim for a smooth finish. Use semi-gloss. A smaller high-quality brush or a mini-foam roller works well on doors.

Tips for best results

• Use quality brushes and shed-resistant roller covers; they hold more paint and leave fewer marks.
• Box your paint: combine multiple gallons in a bucket and stir to ensure color consistency.
• Don’t overload the roller. Aim for even coverage without drips; reload often.
• Remove tape at a 45° angle while the paint is slightly tacky. If dry, score the edge with a sharp utility knife first.
• For bathrooms/kitchens, choose mildew-resistant paint and ventilate well during and after painting.
• Label leftover paint with room, sheen, and date for touch-ups.

Common mistakes to avoid

• Skipping cleaning or sanding; paint won’t adhere well to grease or gloss.
• Painting over wet patches or primer; it can cause flashing or peeling.
• Using the wrong roller nap; too thick leaves texture, too thin won’t cover.
• Over-brushing/over-rolling as paint starts to set; this causes drag marks.
• Ignoring environmental conditions; high humidity and low temperatures slow dry times and increase sagging and lap marks.
• Leaving tape on for days; it bonds and tears the finish.

Safety

• Ventilation: open windows, use fans to exhaust air outside. Avoid open flames with solvent-based primers.
• Dust protection: wear an N95 while sanding; vacuum dust with a HEPA vac.
• Ladder safety: set on a stable surface, keep three points of contact, don’t overreach—move the ladder instead.
• Lead paint: homes built before 1978 may contain lead. If you suspect it, use a test kit and follow lead-safe practices or hire a certified pro.

Cost and time

• A typical 12×12 bedroom: 2 gallons wall paint + 1 gallon ceiling + 1 quart trim. Materials total: roughly $120–$300 depending on paint grade and tools.
• Time: 1–2 days including prep and two coats. Add time for repairs, drying, and trim finishing.

When to call a professional

• Very high or vaulted ceilings, stairwells, or hard-to-reach areas requiring specialty ladders or scaffolding.
• Extensive drywall repair, water damage, or serious stains/odors requiring sealing.
• Sprayed finishes on doors/cabinets for a factory-smooth look.
• Lead paint remediation or if you’re on a tight timeline for multiple rooms.

With good prep, the right tools, and patient technique, you’ll get a clean, durable finish that looks great and lasts.