How can I remove old wallpaper?

You can remove old wallpaper by first testing whether it peels off dry, then using warm water with a wallpaper remover or a steamer to loosen the adhesive, scraping carefully, and finally washing and sealing the wall before repainting or re-papering.

Why this works and what to expect

Most wallpapers have two layers: a decorative face and a paper backing. The face often peels off dry, leaving the backing and glue to be soaked and scraped. For stubborn vinyl or multi-layer papers, you’ll use either a scoring tool plus a removal solution or a steam plate to soften the paste. Plan on a bit of mess and patience—good prep and the right tools make all the difference.

Tools and materials

• Drop cloths or plastic sheeting and painter’s tape
• 6-in. flexible taping knife or a dedicated wallpaper scraper (keep it sharp)
• Scoring tool (light-pressure type with rolling wheels)
• Pump sprayer (1–2 gallon) or spray bottle
• Wallpaper remover solution (enzyme-based like DIF) or a homemade mix
• Steamer (rental or a homeowner unit) for very stubborn paper
• Buckets, warm water, sponges, microfiber rags
• Utility knife, putty knife, sanding sponge (180–220 grit)
• Joint compound for repairs; drywall sanding block
• Sealing primer (e.g., Zinsser Gardz) and/or stain-blocking primer if needed
• Ladder, gloves, safety glasses; mask if dust is created

Step-by-step

1. Prep the room

   • Move furniture, cover floors with plastic or canvas. Tape plastic up at baseboards.
   • Turn off power to the room at the breaker. Remove outlet/switch plates and cover boxes with painter’s tape to keep water out.
   • Score only if the paper is non-porous (vinyl). Use light pressure—tiny holes, not gouges.

2. Test for dry strip

   • At a corner or seam, slide a putty knife under the edge and pull. If the top layer peels off in sheets, continue and remove as much of the face as possible. You’ll likely see a fuzzy paper backing left behind—that’s fine.

3. Mix and apply solution

   • For backing and stubborn areas, spray generously with a hot water mix. Let it dwell 10–15 minutes, keeping it wet.
   • Reliable mixes: Enzyme remover: 1 gallon hot water + 4–8 oz concentrate Vinegar mix: 1 gallon hot water + 2 cups white vinegar Dish soap boost: 1 gallon hot water + 1–2 tbsp dish soap (with either mix)
   • Work in manageable sections (4x4 ft). Rewet if it starts drying.

4. Scrape gently

   • Use a 4–6 in. flexible knife at a low angle. Push under the softened backing and lift. Avoid digging into drywall paper—shallow passes are better.
   • Keep blades clean and sharp. If you hit tough dry patches, rewet and wait.

5. For very stubborn wallpaper: steam

   • A steamer softens heavy vinyl or multiple layers fast. Hold the steam plate 10–20 seconds per area and scrape immediately.
   • Rental cost is typically $25–50/day. Wear gloves; steam burns are no joke. Ventilate to reduce condensation.

6. Remove adhesive residue

   • After paper is off, walls will feel slick or tacky. Wash with warm water and a sponge, changing water often. For heavy paste, use a TSP-substitute cleaner per label.
   • When the wall no longer feels slippery and water no longer beads, you’ve removed the glue.

7. Dry, repair, and prime

   • Let walls dry thoroughly (overnight is common). Sand high spots lightly and skim damaged areas with joint compound. Sand smooth once dry.
   • Seal with a penetrating primer that locks down any remaining porosity and torn drywall paper. A product like Zinsser Gardz is made for this.
   • For stains or watermarks, follow with a stain-blocking primer (shellac or oil-based) before painting.

Safety check

• Power off to avoid water near live circuits. Keep outlets/switches taped over.
• Wear eye protection when scoring/scraping. Use gloves for steam or chemicals.
• Ventilate the room. If you discover mold behind paper, stop, dry the area, and address the cause before proceeding.
• Homes pre-1978 can have lead paint under layers. If you accidentally reach painted surfaces and create dust or chips, follow lead-safe practices or call a pro.

Tips for best results

• Use hot (not boiling) water; heat speeds up paste release.
• Start at seams and work top-down to control drips.
• Light scoring only—just enough to let solution in. Heavy scoring can scar drywall and cause future paint flashing.
• Keep a trash bag handy; drop wet scraps straight in to reduce mess.
• Prime before painting. Painting directly over residual paste can lead to adhesion issues or flashing.

Common mistakes

• Over-soaking drywall until it bubbles or delaminates. Keep surfaces wet, not flooded.
• Using a dull or stiff scraper that gouges. A flexible taping knife is kinder to walls.
• Skipping the glue wash. Leftover paste can reactivate with humidity and ruin paint.
• Not sealing torn drywall paper. Unsealed fibers will fuzz and telegraph through paint.

Time and cost

• Time: A small room (150–200 sq ft of wall) usually takes 4–8 hours for typical paper, longer if multiple layers or heavy vinyl. Add a day for drying, patching, and priming.
• Cost: $20–$40 for remover, blades, and consumables. Steamer rental $25–$50/day. Primer $20–$40/gal. Total DIY often lands under $100–$150 per room excluding paint.

When to call a professional

• Historic plaster or walls already showing damage/delamination.
• Ceilings or stairwells requiring staging/ladders you’re not comfortable with.
• Multiple stubborn layers where steam and remover still fail.
• Evidence of moisture damage or mold that needs remediation.

With proper prep, a pump sprayer, a sharp scraper, and patience, most homeowners can clear old wallpaper and get to a clean, primed surface ready for a fresh finish.