Toolstash
Expert Home Improvement Advice
Short answer
Fix peeling paint by addressing the cause (often moisture), removing all loose paint, feather-sanding the edges, patching and smoothing, priming the bare areas, and repainting with high-quality acrylic latex. Proper prep and drying time are the difference between a lasting repair and another peel.
Why paint peels and how to prevent a repeat
Peeling happens when paint loses adhesion. Common causes:
- Moisture: roof/plumbing leaks, high humidity in bathrooms, condensation on cold walls.
- Poor prep: dust, gloss, grease, or chalky surfaces under the paint.
- Incompatible layers: latex over oil without sanding/priming, or painting over uncured joint compound or new plaster without proper primer.
Before repairing, fix the root cause. Run a bath fan, repair leaks, dehumidify, or add ventilation. If the home was built before 1978, consider lead-safe practices for any sanding or scraping (more below).
Tools and materials
- Paint scraper (3-in or 5-in-1), carbide scraper for stubborn areas
- Putty knife (2"–4")
- Sandpaper: 80–120 grit (initial), 150–180 (feather), 220 (finish); sanding sponge for corners
- Random orbital sander with HEPA vac (optional but helpful for larger areas)
- Patching compound/spackle (lightweight for small areas; setting-type for deeper repairs)
- Primer: stain-blocking/bonding primer; PVA primer for new drywall; mold/mildew-resistant primer for baths
- Quality interior acrylic latex paint (2 coats), brushes/rollers (2" angled sash brush, 3/8" nap roller)
- Painter’s tape, drop cloths, plastic sheeting
- Paintable latex caulk and caulk gun (for trim/wall gaps)
- Cleaning supplies: mild detergent, degreaser (for kitchens), microfiber cloth
- PPE: safety glasses, N95/P100 respirator, gloves; hearing protection if power sanding
- Moisture meter (optional but useful)
Step-by-step: Repairing peeling paint on walls
- Diagnose and dry the area
- Look for sources of moisture (stains, musty smell, soft drywall, nearby plumbing). Address them first.
- Allow the wall to dry completely. Use fans or a dehumidifier. A moisture meter should read near normal for drywall.
- Protect and prepare
- Lay drop cloths and plastic. Mask trim. Turn off HVAC in the work area and cover returns to control dust.
- For homes built before 1978, test for lead with an EPA-recognized kit or hire a lead-certified pro. Use containment, wet methods, and HEPA vacs.
- Remove all loose paint
- Use a scraper or 5-in-1 tool to remove any paint that lifts easily. Don’t pry at firmly bonded paint.
- For stubborn edges, a carbide scraper speeds things up.
- Sand and feather the edges
- Start with 120–150 grit to flatten high edges where paint meets bare wall.
- Finish with 180–220 grit to feather the transition so it feels smooth to the touch.
- Vacuum and wipe dust with a slightly damp microfiber cloth.
- Patch and smooth
- Apply spackle or patching compound with a 4"–6" knife to fill divots and create a flat surface. For deeper areas, use a setting-type compound (hardens in 20–45 minutes) in thin layers.
- Let dry fully, then sand with 180–220 grit until smooth. Repeat if needed.
- Prime
- Spot-prime all bare areas and patches. If peeling was widespread or the wall is chalky, prime the whole wall.
- Use bonding primer over glossy surfaces, PVA primer for new drywall, and a mold/mildew-resistant primer in baths.
- Caulk gaps
- Run a thin bead of paintable latex caulk where trim meets walls or where small cracks reappear. Tool smooth; let cure.
- Paint
- Apply two thin coats of quality acrylic latex. Allow proper dry time between coats. Use a 3/8" nap roller for walls, and a 2" angled brush for edges.
Helpful specs
Surface conditions: 50–90°F, RH under ~70%
Grit progression: 120–150 (level), 180–220 (feather/finish)
Dry times (typical):
- Spackle: 30–120 min per layer (check product)
- Primer: 1–4 hours to recoat
- Paint: 2–4 hours between coats; full cure 7–30 days
Coverage (approx.):
- Primer: 300–400 sq ft/gal
- Paint: 350–450 sq ft/gal
Sheen suggestions: Eggshell/satin for living areas; satin/semi-gloss for baths/kitchens.
Safety and cleanliness
- Wear eye protection and an N95/P100 when sanding; use hearing protection with power sanders.
- Ventilate well; use fans facing out windows.
- Lead safety: for pre-1978 paint, use lead-safe work practices or hire an RRP-certified contractor.
Costs and time
- Materials: $40–$120 for spackle, sandpaper, primer, and paint (small room touch-up). A gallon of decent paint runs $30–$60; primer $20–$40.
- Tools: scraper $8–$15; sanding supplies $10–$25; caulk + gun $8–$20.
- Time: Small patch area 2–4 hours of work spread over 1–2 days due to drying. Entire wall 4–8 hours across 2 days.
Tips for best results
- Clean first: grease and dust kill adhesion. In kitchens, use a degreaser before sanding.
- Feather generously: the smoother the transition, the more invisible the repair.
- Prime more, not less: primer is cheaper than fixing another peel later.
- Control humidity: keep indoor RH around 40–55%, and run bath fans for 20 minutes after showers.
- Use the right paint: in baths/kitchens, choose mildew-resistant acrylic latex.
Common mistakes to avoid
- Painting over damp or chalky walls.
- Skipping primer on bare drywall or patched areas.
- Heavy paint coats that skin over and trap moisture.
- Using pure silicone caulk where you plan to paint (it won’t take paint). Choose paintable latex or siliconized acrylic.
- Ignoring moisture sources like failed grout, leaking valves, or poor ventilation.
When to call a pro
- Peeling across multiple rooms or entire walls (may indicate systemic moisture or prior coating failure).
- Suspected mold covering more than ~10 sq ft.
- Ongoing leaks, roof issues, or condensation problems you can’t track down.
- Lead paint present and you’re not set up for lead-safe work.
- Historic plaster with widespread delamination or cracks—requires specialized repair.
With moisture under control and good prep, your repaint should hold up for years. Take your time on the scraping, sanding, and priming—those steps carry the finish.