Short answer
Repaint kitchen cabinets by removing doors and hardware, cleaning and degreasing thoroughly, sanding for tooth, applying a bonding/stain-blocking primer, then finishing with 2–3 thin coats of cabinet-grade enamel. Allow proper dry and cure times, then reassemble with care.
Why this works
Cabinets live in a tough environment—grease, steam, and frequent handling. A durable finish starts with aggressive cleaning, firm mechanical adhesion (sanding), and the right primer and paint chemistry. A careful process produces a factory-like finish that resists chipping and yellowing.
Tools and materials
- Cleaning: degreaser (TSP substitute or Krud Kutter), microfiber rags, Scotch-Brite pads
- Surface prep: random-orbit sander, sanding block, 120-150 grit (shaping) and 180–220 grit (finish) sandpaper, tack cloth or vacuum with brush, liquid deglosser (optional)
- Repairs: wood filler, putty knife, caulk (paintable, for gaps), grain filler for open-grain oak (optional)
- Masking: painter’s tape, masking paper/film, plastic sheeting, drop cloths
- Primers: bonding primer (e.g., Insl-X Stix) for slick surfaces; shellac-based stain blocker (e.g., BIN) for knots/tannin bleed
- Paints: cabinet-grade enamel—waterborne alkyd (e.g., BM Advance) or urethane-acrylic (e.g., SW Emerald Urethane) in satin/semi-gloss
- Application: 2–2.5" angled sash brush, high-density 4–6" foam or microfiber mini-roller (1/4" nap), optional HVLP/airless sprayer
- Hardware: new pulls/knobs (optional), hinge screws, label stickers or masking tape, zip-top bags
- Safety: respirator (P100 for sanding dust, organic vapor cartridges for solvent-based products), safety glasses, nitrile gloves, hearing protection
Step-by-step
1) Plan and set up
- Clear a staging area for doors/drawers. Protect floors and set up drying racks or painter’s pyramids.
- Label everything. As you remove each door/drawer, label it and its location. Bag and label hardware.
2) Remove and clean
- Take off doors, drawers, and hardware. Leave hinge plates on the boxes or remove and label—your call, but consistency helps.
- Degrease all surfaces thoroughly. Rinse with clean water and let dry. Skipping this step causes adhesion failures.
3) Sand and degloss
- Scuff-sand all surfaces: 120–150 grit for roughing glossy finishes; finish with 180–220 grit for primer-ready tooth.
- Vacuum dust and wipe with a slightly damp microfiber or tack cloth.
- Optional: Use a liquid deglosser on very slick finishes, then sand lightly again.
4) Repair and fill
- Fill dings and old hardware holes with wood filler. Sand smooth (180–220 grit). For oak grain, apply grain filler if you want a smooth, modern look.
- Caulk small gaps at face-frame joints and box-to-wall seams. Let dry per label.
5) Prime
- Choose the right primer: bonding primer for laminate/thermofoil; shellac-based for knots or heavy stains.
- Apply a thin, even coat to all surfaces. Lay off roller stipple with a brush for smoother results.
- Dry fully, then lightly sand with 220–320 grit to knock down nibs. Clean dust.
6) Paint
- Apply 2–3 thin coats of cabinet enamel. Work methodically: backs of doors first, then fronts.
- Use a high-density mini-roller for large flats and an angled brush for profiles. Tip off lightly for a sprayed look.
- Respect recoat times—waterborne alkyds often need 12–16 hours between coats.
7) Cure and reassemble
- Let final coat dry at least overnight before handling; pad your work surface to prevent impressions.
- Reinstall doors and drawers gently. Avoid heavy use for 7 days; full cure can take 21–30 days.
Recommended specs
- Sanding grits: 120–150 (scuff), 180–220 (pre-prime), 220–320 (between coats)
- Environment: 60–80°F (16–27°C), 40–60% RH, dust-free area
- Sprayer: HVLP 1.3–1.5 mm tip for thin enamels; strain paint before spraying
- Recoat: follow label; many cabinet enamels 12–16 hrs; shellac primer ~45 min
Safety considerations
- Ventilate well; use a respirator matched to the task (P100 for sanding dust; organic vapor cartridges for solvent-rich products).
- If your home predates 1978, test for lead before sanding. Follow lead-safe practices or hire a certified pro.
- Keep rags with solvent or shellac away from heat; let them dry flat to avoid spontaneous combustion.
Tips for best results
- Number doors and mark hinge positions. A simple map saves hours at reassembly.
- Strain primer and paint to reduce specks. Add a paint conditioner compatible with your product if you need more open time.
- Use painter’s pyramids to coat both sides of doors in a single session.
- For oak, consider a pore filler or two coats of high-build primer and additional sanding to knock down grain telegraphing.
- Upgrade to soft-close hinges while you’re at it; use a cabinet hardware jig for consistent handle placement.
Common mistakes to avoid
- Skipping degreasing: paint will fish-eye or peel.
- Heavy coats: leads to sags and long cure times. Thin, even coats win.
- Ignoring recoat windows: some enamels wrinkle or lift if recoated too soon.
- Not sealing off the kitchen: dust and overspray travel. Create a temporary plastic “booth.”
- Reassembling too soon: let finishes harden to avoid sticking and imprints.
Cost and time
- Materials for an average 10×10 kitchen: $150–$400 (primer, paint, abrasives, masking). Add $100–$300 if buying a sprayer.
- Time: 3–7 days depending on size, product dry times, and whether you fill grain.
When to call a pro
- You have lead-based paint, extensive veneer damage, or heavy tannin bleed you can’t control.
- You want a sprayed, factory-grade finish but lack a spray area and equipment.
- Thermofoil doors peeling: replacement is often better than painting.
With patience, the right products, and a dust-controlled setup, a DIY cabinet repaint can look sharp and last for years.