What's the most efficient way to remove a thick concrete patio slab?

Short answer

The most efficient way to remove a thick concrete patio slab is to saw-cut it into manageable sections and break it up with a heavy electric breaker (60–70 lb jackhammer). For very thick (6–8+ inches) or heavily reinforced slabs, rent a skid-steer with a hydraulic breaker or hire a demolition crew. Always control dust with water, protect adjacent structures, and plan for hauling and disposal.

What shapes the best approach

• Thickness and reinforcement: Mesh or rebar significantly increases effort.
• Access: If you can get a skid-steer in, mechanized breaking speeds the job.
• Proximity to the house or pool: Requires precise cutting and protection.
• Disposal plan: Concrete is heavy; plan removal before you start.

Typical specs:
- Slab thickness: 4–6 in (residential patio), sometimes 6–8+ in near edges
- Weight: ~150 lb/ft³ → 4 in slab ≈ 50 lb per sq ft
- Rebar/mesh: Expect in newer or higher-end installs

Tools and materials

• Demolition hammer (electric 60–70 lb) with pointed and wide chisels
• 14 in concrete saw (gas or electric) with diamond blade, preferably wet-capable
• Garden hose and adjustable nozzle (wet cutting/dust suppression)
• Sledgehammer (10–16 lb), digging/pry bars, large cold chisel
• Reciprocating saw or angle grinder with metal-cutting blades for rebar/mesh
• Wheelbarrows, hand truck, or pallet jack; rubble buckets
• Heavy tarps/plywood for surface protection; plastic sheeting for windows/doors
• PPE: N95/half-mask respirator (silica-rated), eye protection (ANSI Z87+), hearing protection, gloves, steel-toe boots, long pants
• Optional: Rotary hammer with 5/8–1 in masonry bit (to start fracture lines), rebar cutter, dumpster or dump trailer

Step-by-step plan

1. Plan and protect

   • Call utility locate service before cutting or drilling. Check for low-voltage lighting/sprinkler lines.
   • Protect siding/glass with plywood or thick plastic sheeting. Lay plywood sheets to protect nearby pavers/grass.
   • Stage a disposal plan: dumpster, local concrete recycler, or dump trailer.

2. Score the slab into a grid

   • Wet the surface and make 2–3 ft squares with a concrete saw. Cut 1.5–2.5 in deep on 4–6 in slabs; deeper on thicker sections. Add a relief cut 2–3 in away from the house to prevent accidental damage to the foundation/threshold.
   • No saw? Drill 5/8–3/4 in holes at 6–8 in spacing along your grid lines to create fracture paths.

3. Start breaking at an edge or opening

   • Begin at a free edge or create one with a few extra saw cuts. Use the pointed jackhammer bit to penetrate a cut line; switch to a wide chisel to lift and shear sections.
   • Pry up each square with a digging bar as you hammer. Smaller pieces (12–24 in) move faster and are safer to handle.

4. Deal with reinforcement

   • If you hit wire mesh, keep lifting until a few strands are exposed, then snip with bolt cutters or a recip saw. For rebar, use an angle grinder/recip saw with metal blade. Don’t try to brute-force bend rebar inside the slab—cut it.

5. Remove and haul

   • Stack debris in piles on tarps; load evenly to avoid overloading wheelbarrows. Keep pieces under 60–80 lb for solo handling. Use a hand truck for thicker chunks.

6. Clean up and prep subgrade (if replacing)

   • Remove base gravel if fouled with fines. Compact or regrade as needed for your next project.

Safety

• Silica dust: Wet cut and wet hammering reduce dust. Use a respirator rated for silica. Avoid dry cutting indoors or near open windows.
• Flying chips: Wear eye protection and shield nearby glass/vehicles.
• Vibration/strain: Take breaks, rotate tasks, and lift with legs. Use proper gloves to reduce vibration exposure.
• Electrical/utility hazards: Verify no embedded electrical conduit. If you suspect a post-tensioned slab (stamped “PT” or with warning plates), do not cut—call a pro.

Tips for best results

• Cut a perimeter channel first, especially where the slab meets the house, steps, or posts.
• Keep pieces small. A 2 ft square of 6 in concrete can exceed 150 lb—halve it if working solo.
• Keep the breaker bit sharp and let the tool do the work; don’t pry with the jackhammer.
• Wet the work zone lightly; avoid creating a slurry river that’s slippery.
• Stage materials close to the exit path so you’re not wheeling heavy loads uphill.

Common mistakes

• Skipping saw cuts and trying to break a monolithic slab—inefficient and risks foundation damage.
• Overlooking reinforcement and fighting mesh/rebar instead of cutting it.
• Underestimating weight and disposal. Concrete adds up fast; many landfills require clean concrete for recycling.
• Dry cutting without a respirator; silica exposure is a serious health risk.

Alternatives for thick or delicate work

• Hydraulic splitter (e.g., Darda): Drill 1.5–2 in holes, insert splitter, and crack in place. Lower vibration—good near foundations and for 8+ in slabs. Rental available.
• Expansive demolition grout (e.g., Dexpan): Drill holes, pour grout, wait 12–24 hours for cracking. Quiet, low-vibration, slower.
• Skid-steer + hydraulic breaker: Fastest for access-friendly sites and large areas; follow with a grapple bucket for cleanup.

Cost and time

• 60–70 lb electric breaker: $60–$120/day
• 14 in saw (wet): $65–$100/day + blade wear
• Skid-steer breaker: $300–$450/day (plus delivery)
• Dump/recycling: $30–$80/ton (a 10×20 ft, 4 in slab ≈ 5 tons)
• Time: Two people with a breaker and saw can demo ~150–250 sq ft of 4–5 in concrete in a day. Add time for thicker/reinforced slabs and hauling.

When to call a pro

• Suspected post-tensioned slab or embedded utilities
• Slab thickness 8 in+, heavily rebarred, or >400 sq ft
• Limited site access but tight protection requirements near structures or pools
• You need same-day removal and haul-off

With the right cuts, a properly sized breaker, and dust/rebar management, a DIY crew can remove most 4–6 in patio slabs efficiently and safely. For thicker or reinforced concrete, mechanized breaking or a pro crew will save time and reduce risk.