How can I safely install an outlet and hide cables behind a wall-mounted TV?

Short answer

Yes—you can safely hide TV cords by installing a recessed power outlet behind the TV and running low‑voltage cables (HDMI, ethernet) through in‑wall rated pathways. The safest DIY path is a UL‑listed TV power relocation kit that adds a recessed outlet behind the TV and a power inlet near the floor. If you’re comfortable with electrical work and local code allows, you can also tap an existing circuit and add a new recessed receptacle. Never run a TV’s factory power cord or an extension cord inside the wall.

What you’re doing and why it matters

Wall‑mounted TVs look cleanest when both power and signal cables are hidden. Electrical code requires that any in‑wall wiring be rated and installed in listed boxes. Low‑voltage cables require in‑wall rating (CL2/CL3/FT4) or conduit. Most jurisdictions require AFCI protection in living spaces and tamper‑resistant receptacles.

Two safe methods

• Method A: TV Power Relocation Kit (DIY‑friendly)

  • Examples: PowerBridge, Legrand, Datacomm. These provide a recessed outlet behind the TV and a power inlet near the floor that plugs into an existing outlet—no tapping into your home’s wiring.
  • Pros: Typically doesn’t require a permit; clean look; minimizes electrical splicing.
  • Cons: You’ll still use an existing outlet at the bottom location.

• Method B: Add a New Recessed Receptacle on an Existing Circuit (advanced DIY)

  • Requires adding NM‑B cable from an existing receptacle to a new recessed box behind the TV.
  • Pros: No visible bottom inlet; looks built‑in.
  • Cons: Usually requires a permit; must meet box fill, AFCI/GFCI, and wiring code.

Tools and materials

• Stud finder with AC alert and deep scan
• Non‑contact voltage tester and plug‑in outlet tester
• Tape measure, level, pencil
• Drywall saw or oscillating multi‑tool
• Fish tape or glow rods; 3/4–1 in flexible bit if a fire block is present
• Screwdriver set, wire stripper, utility knife
• PPE: safety glasses, dust mask, gloves

For Method A (kit):
- UL‑listed TV power relocation kit (recessed outlet + power inlet)
- Low‑voltage pass‑through plates or a 3/4–1 in flexible conduit for HDMI/ethernet
- In‑wall rated HDMI/ethernet (CL2/CL3 or optical HDMI)

For Method B (hard‑wire):
- Recessed old‑work box/media box (e.g., Arlington TVBU505, Legrand recessed TV box)
- TR (tamper‑resistant) receptacle, 15A or 20A to match circuit
- NM‑B cable (14/2 for 15A; 12/2 for 20A)
- Cable staples, wirenuts, box clamps, nail plates as needed
- Low‑voltage pass‑through plates or conduit

Planning and placement

• Choose the same stud bay for the upper (behind TV) and lower (near floor) openings.
• Place the upper recessed box centered behind the TV so the plug clears the mount.
• Place the lower opening 12–16 in above the floor, behind a console if possible.

Typical layout:
- Upper recessed box height: ~42–48 in to center for many setups; adjust to TV size
- Lower opening: 12–16 in above floor
- Stud drilling: hole center ≥ 1-1/4 in from stud edge; add nail plates if closer

Step‑by‑step: Method A (power relocation kit)

1. Turn off and test: Unplug nearby devices. Use a non‑contact tester to verify no live conductors where you’ll cut.
2. Locate and mark: Find a stud bay clear of studs, pipes, and wires. Trace the kit’s templates for upper and lower cutouts.
3. Cut the openings: Use a drywall saw or oscillating tool.
4. Run the included in‑wall power link between the two boxes per the kit instructions. Use fish tape to pull through the same stud bay.
5. Install boxes/plates: Secure the upper recessed outlet and lower power inlet. Tighten the old‑work tabs snugly.
6. Low‑voltage: Install brush plates or conduit and pull CL2/CL3‑rated HDMI/ethernet.
7. Power up: Plug the TV into the upper recessed outlet. At the bottom, plug a short power cord from the inlet to a standard receptacle. Test with an outlet tester.

Time: 1.5–3 hours. Cost: $60–$130 for the kit + $20–$50 for low‑voltage plates/cables.

Step‑by‑step: Method B (hard‑wire a new recessed receptacle)

1. Permits and protection: Verify permit requirements. Ensure the circuit is AFCI protected if required (living spaces) and GFCI where applicable (basements, near sinks).
2. Kill power: Turn off the breaker feeding the source receptacle. Verify with a tester.
3. Openings: Cut an opening for the new recessed box behind the TV and remove the existing source receptacle to access its box (or cut a new lower old‑work opening if tapping elsewhere in the same bay).
4. Path check: Probe for fire blocking. If present, use a long flex bit to drill through the block in the center of the stud bay.
5. Pull cable: Run NM‑B from the source box to the new recessed box. Staple within 8 in of each plastic box (12 in for metal) and every 4.5 ft.
6. Box work: Maintain at least 6 in of free conductor in each box. Splice hot/neutral/ground with wirenuts at the source receptacle (pigtail as needed). Bond grounds.
7. Install devices: Mount the recessed TV box with a TR receptacle. Reinstall the source receptacle with proper box fill.
8. Low‑voltage: Use separate low‑voltage plates or a divided media box; do not mix HV and LV in the same compartment.
9. Restore and test: Turn on breaker. Test for correct wiring with an outlet tester.

Time: 2–4 hours (plus permit time). Cost: $40–$80 for boxes/wire/devices.

Safety and code tips

• Never run factory power cords or extension cords inside walls.
• Use in‑wall rated low‑voltage cables (CL2/CL3) or install a conduit so you can replace cables later.
• Maintain separation between 120V and low‑voltage; use divided boxes or separate openings.
• Keep drilled holes centered; add steel nail plates if any cable is within 1‑1/4 in of a stud face.
• Use tamper‑resistant receptacles. AFCI protection is generally required in living areas.
• Label the breaker and photograph the wall before closing up for future reference.

Common mistakes to avoid

• Putting HDMI and power in the same undivided box.
• Using non‑rated HDMI/ethernet that can degrade or violate code in‑wall.
• Oversized cutouts that old‑work tabs can’t grip—trace the template carefully.
• Forgetting a service loop; tight cables make future service difficult.
• Overfilling boxes and exceeding conductor or device counts.

When to call a pro

• Aluminum, knob‑and‑tube, or questionable existing wiring.
• Plaster/lath walls, masonry, or high‑rise/condo rules.
• You hit a fire block you can’t safely drill.
• Panel work needed for AFCI/GFCI upgrades or circuit load concerns.

Pro tips

• A recessed media box with a built‑in duplex and separate low‑voltage chamber keeps everything tidy.
• Run a 1 in flexible conduit for low‑voltage; future HDMI standards change, conduit future‑proofs your setup.
• Use a quality stud finder with AC detection to minimize surprises.

Follow these steps and you’ll have a clean, code‑compliant install that hides both the power and the signal lines behind your wall‑mounted TV.