What's the easiest way to unclog a sink drain?

Short answer

The easiest way to unclog a sink drain is to use a cup plunger properly (block the overflow and plunge with a few strong pushes). If that doesn’t clear it in a couple of minutes, remove and clean the stopper (bathroom) or P-trap (kitchen/bath), and if needed run a small hand drain snake through the drain line. These mechanical methods are quick, inexpensive, and safer than chemical cleaners.

Why this works

Most sink clogs are hair-and-soap buildup (bathroom) or grease/food sludge (kitchen) trapped near the stopper, P-trap, or the first few feet of drain. A plunger dislodges soft clogs. Cleaning the stopper and P-trap physically removes the blockage. A hand snake breaks up tougher clogs a little farther down the line.

What you’ll need

Cup plunger (not a flange/toilet plunger)
Bucket and old towels
Rubber gloves and safety glasses
Adjustable pliers (channel-lock) and/or adjustable wrench
Small hand drain snake (15–25 ft, 1/4 in cable) or plastic hair clog tool
Flashlight
Optional: Wet/dry vacuum, old toothbrush, mild dish soap, PTFE thread tape for reassembly

Common slip-joint sizes:
- Bathroom sink P-trap: 1-1/4 in
- Kitchen sink P-trap: 1-1/2 in
Typical sink snake: 15–25 ft, 1/4 in cable

Step-by-step: from quickest to thorough

1) Prep and safety (2–3 minutes)

Turn off the garbage disposal switch if it’s a kitchen sink. Verify it spins freely; press the reset button if tripped. Never reach inside with power on.
Remove standing water down to a couple inches if it’s overflowing (leave enough to cover the plunger cup).
Put on gloves and glasses. Lay towels and place a bucket under the trap.

2) Plunge the sink (3–5 minutes)

For bathroom sinks, block the overflow hole with a wet rag. For double-bowl kitchens, seal the other drain.
Seat a cup plunger over the drain opening. Add a little water to fully cover the plunger rim. A smear of petroleum jelly on the rim helps seal.
Use 6–10 firm pumps, keeping the seal. Lift quickly. Repeat up to 3 rounds. If water drains noticeably better, flush with hot water for a minute.

3) Clean the stopper (bathroom sinks) (5–10 minutes)

Under the sink, locate the small pivot rod/nut at the back of the drain tailpiece.
Place a bucket. Loosen the pivot nut by hand or with pliers and pull the rod out. Lift the stopper from the sink.
Scrub hair/soap scum from the stopper and tailpiece with an old toothbrush and dish soap.
Reinsert the rod and stopper (test movement) and tighten the pivot nut snug—don’t overtighten.
Run water. If still slow, proceed to P-trap.

4) Remove and clean the P-trap (10–15 minutes)

Position the bucket under the trap (curved pipe). Loosen the two slip nuts on either end by hand or gently with pliers.
Lower the trap and dump debris into the bucket. Clean out the trap and the trap arm (into the wall) with a brush or cloth.
Check washers/gaskets. Replace if cracked. Reassemble, aligning parts squarely. Hand-tighten slip nuts; then an extra 1/8–1/4 turn with pliers. Avoid overtightening, especially on plastic.

5) Snake the drain (if still clogged) (5–15 minutes)

Remove the trap again and feed a 1/4 in hand snake into the wall’s drain stub-out.
Advance slowly. When you feel resistance, lock and spin the drum clockwise while pushing gently. Work through the blockage.
Retrieve the snake, wiping the cable as you pull out. Reinstall the trap and run water.

6) Flush and check for leaks

Run hot water 2–3 minutes to carry away loosened debris (for kitchens, a kettle of hot—not boiling—water helps melt grease).
Dry all joints and check for drips. Tighten slightly if needed.

Tips for best results

A wet/dry vacuum can be a fast first try: set to wet mode, create a tight seal at the drain, block the overflow, and vacuum the clog out. Clean the vac thoroughly afterward.
For grease-prone kitchen sinks, a squirt of dish soap followed by hot water after plunging helps emulsify residue. Avoid boiling water on PVC—keep it hot, not rolling boil.
Baking soda + hot water helps deodorize and loosen light buildup. Skip vinegar if you’ve used bleach, and don’t expect it to clear heavy clogs.
Keep a simple plastic hair remover for monthly bathroom maintenance.

Common mistakes to avoid

Using chemical drain cleaners before plunging or opening the trap. They can cause severe burns and damage finishes and seals.
Forgetting to block the overflow or the second bowl when plunging—this kills suction.
Overtightening plastic slip nuts, which cracks fittings and causes leaks later.
Reassembling the trap with misaligned washers or cross-threaded nuts.
Pushing too hard with a snake; you can kink the cable or puncture thin-wall pipe.

Cost and time

Cup plunger: $5–$15
Plastic hair tool: $3–$5
Hand drain snake: $20–$35
Adjustable pliers: $10–$20
Typical DIY time: 10–40 minutes depending on steps needed

When to call a pro

Repeated clogs or multiple fixtures backing up (sink + tub or toilet). That signals a main line issue.
Strong sewer odors, gurgling drains, or water backing into a tub when you run the sink.
The snake can’t get past 10–15 ft or returns with mud/roots.
Corroded or crumbling metal traps or waste arms that won’t seal after reassembly.

With a plunger, a bucket, and a basic hand snake, most sink clogs are a quick, low-cost fix. Keep those tools on hand and you’ll rarely need chemicals—or a service call.