How do I install a new showerhead?

Short answer

Installing a new showerhead is a straightforward DIY that usually takes 10–20 minutes. Unscrew the old head, clean and tape the shower arm threads, then hand-tighten the new head and snug it with a wrench. Test for leaks and adjust as needed.

What you’ll need

• Adjustable wrench or tongue-and-groove pliers (protect the finish with a rag)
• Strap wrench (handy for delicate finishes)
• PTFE thread-seal tape (Teflon tape), 1/2" wide
• Soft cloth or masking tape (to protect fixtures)
• Old toothbrush or nylon brush
• White vinegar and paper towels (to loosen mineral deposits)
• Bucket or towel to catch drips

Time: 10–20 minutes
Cost: $15–$200 for the showerhead; $2–$5 for PTFE tape

Thread standard: 1/2"-14 NPT (tapered). 
Typical flow: 1.75–2.5 GPM at 80 PSI (check local regulations).

Step-by-step installation

1. Protect the area

   • Place a rag in the tub/shower to catch small parts and prevent scratches. Cover the drain so washers don’t fall in.
   • Ensure the valve is off. You don’t need to shut off house water for a showerhead swap.

2. Remove the old showerhead

   • Try turning it counterclockwise by hand. If it’s stuck, wrap the neck with a rag and use an adjustable wrench or strap wrench.
   • If the whole shower arm wants to turn, hold the arm steady near the wall with pliers while you loosen the head. This avoids stressing the fitting behind the wall.

3. Clean and inspect the shower arm

   • Peel off old tape or sealant and scrub the threads with a toothbrush. If there’s heavy mineral buildup, wrap a vinegar-soaked towel around the threads for 10–15 minutes, then scrub.
   • Check for corrosion, dents, or wobble at the wall. A wobbly arm or flaking metal may mean it should be replaced before installing the new head.

4. Optional flush

   • With the head removed, briefly crack the shower valve to flush out any grit. Cover the end of the arm with a towel to control the spray. Shut the valve afterward.

5. Tape the threads

   • Wrap PTFE tape clockwise (the same direction you’ll screw the showerhead on) 2–3 wraps, keeping the tape flat and snug. Avoid covering the opening.
   • For plastic or delicate fittings, a PTFE paste (thread sealant) rated for plastics is an alternative. Follow the manufacturer’s guidance.

6. Install the new showerhead

   • Most fixed heads: hand-thread clockwise until snug, then give an additional 1/8–1/4 turn with a wrench. Protect the finish with a cloth or use a strap wrench.
   • Handheld kits: ensure the rubber washer is inside the hose ends and the bracket. Many handheld connections seal with washers; only use tape on tapered NPT connections, not on straight-thread hose ends.

7. Test for leaks

   • Turn on the water gradually. Watch the connection at the arm and any hose joints. If you see a slow drip, tighten slightly. Persistent dripping? Remove, re-tape, and reinstall.

Safety and care

• Work on a dry, stable surface. If you use a step stool, make sure it has non-slip feet.
• Avoid overtightening—this can crack plastic housings or twist the shower arm inside the wall.
• Don’t use a pipe wrench on thin, finished parts; choose an adjustable or strap wrench and cushion the jaws.

Tips for best results

• Protect finishes: Wrap a cloth under your wrench or use a strap wrench to avoid bite marks.
• Correct tape direction: Always wrap PTFE tape clockwise. Wrapping the wrong way can bunch the tape as you tighten the head.
• Match the head to your water pressure: For low-pressure homes, look for “low-pressure optimized” or air-induction heads. High-pressure homes may benefit from 1.75–2.0 GPM models that still feel strong while saving water.
• Rain showerheads: For overhead feel, you may want a longer or S-shaped shower arm to center the head. If the arm change affects wall penetration or requires in-wall work, plan accordingly.
• Descale, don’t replace: If your current head is just clogged, soak the face in warm vinegar for 30–60 minutes, then scrub nozzles with a soft brush.

Common mistakes to avoid

• Cross-threading: If it feels gritty or crooked, back off and start again by hand. Never force metal threads into plastic.
• Too much tape: More than 3–4 wraps can prevent proper tightening and cause leaks.
• Ignoring washers on handhelds: Missing or flipped washers are a frequent source of drips.
• Twisting the arm in the wall: Always counterhold the arm if the head is stubborn. Movement at the wall escutcheon can signal trouble behind the tile.

When to call a pro

• The shower arm spins or feels loose inside the wall—this can crack the elbow or joint and cause hidden leaks.
• Visible corrosion on a galvanized arm or signs of leaks behind the escutcheon (water staining, soft drywall).
• You want to relocate the head, install a ceiling drop, add a built-in diverter, or open tile—this often involves cutting and sweating or pressing new copper/PEX and waterproofing.
• Extremely low or erratic pressure persists after installation; the issue may be with the mixing valve or supply lines.

Quick FAQ

• Do I need tape if there’s a rubber washer? For tapered NPT connections, use PTFE tape. For straight-thread hose connections with a flat washer, tape is typically unnecessary.
• Can I remove the flow restrictor? Many regions regulate maximum flow; removing restrictors may violate local rules and waste water. Choose a compliant head designed for your pressure instead.

With the right prep and a gentle hand, a showerhead swap is a quick upgrade that pays off every day. If you run into stubborn parts or signs of hidden damage, pause and get a pro involved before you turn a small job into a larger repair.