How do I install vinyl plank flooring?

Short answer

Install vinyl plank flooring by prepping a flat, clean subfloor; planning your layout; then clicking or adhering planks in place while leaving a 1/4" expansion gap around all walls and fixed objects. Stagger seams by at least 6 inches, use spacers, and finish with trim and transitions. Most DIYers can complete a typical 200 sq ft room in a weekend.

Expansion gap: 1/4" (6–8 mm) at all fixed edges
Subfloor flatness: ≤ 3/16" over 10 ft or ≤ 1/8" over 6 ft
Concrete under floating LVP: 6-mil poly vapor barrier
Install temp: 60–80°F; acclimate 24–48 hrs unless manufacturer says otherwise

Know your product

• Click-lock (floating) LVP/SPC: Most DIY-friendly. Planks lock together; no glue. Do not install under cabinets or fix to substrate.
• Glue-down: Better for commercial or large areas. Needs pressure-sensitive adhesive and a floor roller.
• Peel-and-stick: Fast but relies on perfect prep. Best for small, low-moisture rooms.

The steps below focus on click-lock, with notes for other types.

Tools and materials

• Measuring tape, pencil, chalk line, carpenter’s square
• 6 ft level or straightedge; floor scraper; vacuum
• Utility knife with fresh blades; fine-tooth miter saw or vinyl plank shear; jigsaw/oscillating multi-tool for notches
• Rubber mallet, tapping block and pull bar (LVP kit)
• 1/4" spacers, pry bar
• Underlayment (if required) or attached-pad planks; 6-mil poly for concrete under floating floors
• Transition strips, quarter-round or base shoe, finish nails/caulk
• Optional: Moisture meter, floor patch/leveler, angle gauge, knee pads
• Safety: Eye and hearing protection, cut-resistant gloves, dust mask when cutting/sanding

Prep the room and subfloor

1. Clear the space, remove baseboards and door thresholds. Undercut door jambs with an oscillating tool and a scrap plank as a height guide.
2. Verify subfloor flatness with a long level. Feather high spots (grind/sand) and fill lows with floor patch. Don’t skip this—click joints fail on uneven floors.
3. Clean thoroughly. Scrape paint blobs and vacuum dust.
4. Moisture: For concrete, lay a 6-mil poly vapor barrier under floating LVP, taped seams overlapping 8". For wood subfloors, fix squeaks with screws and ensure humidity is controlled.
5. Acclimate planks in-room for 24–48 hours unless your brand specifically says it’s not required (common with SPC).

Plan your layout

• Choose the direction: Typically parallel to the longest wall or the main light source. Lay a few loose planks to visualize.
• Measure room width and divide by plank width to see the last-row size. Rip the first row so your last row will be at least 2–3 inches wide.
• Snap a straight reference line with a chalk line to keep the first row dead straight.
• Mix planks from several boxes to blend color variation.

Install the planks (click-lock)

1. First row: Place the groove side to the wall with 1/4" spacers. Ensure it follows your reference line. Cut end of the last plank to fit, leaving the gap.
2. Second row: Start with a cut-off from row one so end joints are staggered 6–8 inches. Insert the long tongue into the groove at a shallow angle and press down. Tap gently with a tapping block until seams are tight.
3. End joints: Engage the short end by angling, then tap. Avoid “hammering” directly on the plank edge.
4. Continue rows: Maintain the stagger pattern and expansion gap. Check alignment every few rows.
5. Doorways and notches: Slide planks under undercut jambs. For heat vents or irregular cuts, trace and cut with a jigsaw or oscillating tool.
6. Last row: Rip to width. Use a pull bar to snug planks to the previous row without crushing the edge.

Notes:
- Glue-down: Trowel adhesive per manufacturer’s notch size, lay planks, then roll with a 75–100 lb floor roller within the open time.
- Peel-and-stick: Prime if required, snap lines, lay carefully because repositioning can weaken bond.

Finishing touches

• Install transition strips at doorways and where flooring meets another surface (T-molding for same height, reducers for lower floors, end caps at sliders).
• Reinstall baseboards or add quarter-round to cover the gap. Do not nail into the floor—only into the wall or baseboard.
• In bathrooms/laundries, consider a thin bead of 100% silicone at the expansion gap under the trim for splash protection (check your manufacturer’s guidance).

Safety pointers

• Wear eye protection and gloves when cutting. Keep fingers clear of miter saw blades and use a support stand.
• Use hearing protection for power tools. A dust mask helps with fine vinyl and MDF trim dust.
• If grinding concrete, use a vacuum with a HEPA filter to control silica dust.

Tips for best results (and common pitfalls)

• Keep it flat: Most failures come from ignoring flatness specs.
• Respect the gap: Tight to walls = buckling later.
• Don’t repeat short seams: Keep ends at least 6" apart and avoid “H” patterns.
• Trim doors/jambs instead of scribing tiny notches—cleaner look, easier fit.
• Move appliances carefully: Lay down hardboard or plywood sheets to roll heavy items without damaging joints. Floating floors should not go under kitchen islands or be pinned by cabinets.
• Bathrooms: Remove the toilet and cut planks to the flange; reinstall with a new wax ring.

When to call a pro

• Subfloors out of tolerance that need grinding/leveling over large areas.
• High moisture concrete (wet basements, no vapor barrier) or slab-on-grade with uncertain conditions.
• Stairs with nosings that require custom stair tread fabrication.
• Existing flooring that may contain asbestos (9" tiles, old sheet goods). Don’t disturb—test first.

Time and cost

• Time: A 200 sq ft room typically takes 1 day for prep and 1 day for installation for a first-time DIYer.
• Material cost: $2–$5/sq ft for mid-grade click-lock LVP; underlayment (if needed) $0.25–$0.75/sq ft; transitions $20–$40 each.
• Tool costs: Tapping block/pull bar kit ~$20–$30; oscillating tool rental ~$25/day; vinyl cutter ~$50–$100.

Follow your specific manufacturer’s instructions above all—they control warranty coverage. With careful prep and a steady pace, vinyl plank flooring installs cleanly and delivers a durable, great-looking finish.