Short answer
Yes—you can refinish hardwood floors yourself if your floors are solid wood or engineered with a thick wear layer. Plan for a long weekend per 200–400 sq ft. The process involves room prep, sanding through grits, optional staining, and applying 2–3 coats of polyurethane. If you only have light scratches and dullness, a simple screen-and-recoat (no heavy sanding) may restore the finish in a day.
Assess your floor first
- Solid hardwood 3/4 in: usually safe to sand multiple times.
- Engineered hardwood: only sand if the wear layer is at least ~2–3 mm. If thinner, do a screen-and-recoat.
- Signs you need full sanding: deep scratches, gray wood, worn-through finish, water damage, old wax/shellac.
- Good candidate for screen-and-recoat: finish is intact but dull or lightly scratched.
Tools and materials
From the ToolStash catalog, look for:
- Floor sander: DIY-friendly random-orbital floor sander (easier to control than a drum) or a drum sander if you have experience.
- Edger: 7 in floor edger, plus a 5 in random-orbital for corners/edges.
- Abrasives: 36/40, 60, 80, 100 grits; 120–150 grit screens or pads for between coats.
- Shop vacuum with HEPA filter; microfiber dust mops; tack cloths (for oil-based finishes only).
- Wood filler or trowelable filler; putty knife.
- Stain (optional): oil- or water-based floor stain.
- Finish: waterborne polyurethane (fast dry, low odor) or oil-based polyurethane (warmer tone, longer dry). Applicators: T-bar, microfiber roller, and quality natural/nylon brush for cut-in.
- Misc: painters tape, plastic sheeting, knee pads, respirator (P100 for dust; appropriate organic vapor cartridges for solvent products), hearing protection, safety glasses.
Prep the room
- Empty the space; remove base shoe/quarter-round for a cleaner edge.
- Seal off doorways/vents with plastic; turn off HVAC during sanding.
- Check and set nails below surface using a nail set.
- Identify wax/contamination: if mineral spirits dissolves and smears residue or water beads strongly, plan for thorough sanding or use a degreaser before screening.
Sanding (full refinish)
- Start with the coarsest grit that removes finish without gouging. For most floors, 36/40 grit, then 60, 80, and finish at 100.
- Keep the sander moving before you lower it; overlap passes by one board width.
- Use the edger at each grit around walls and obstacles; blend edge and field with the next finer grit.
- Vacuum thoroughly between grits. A bright work light will reveal scratches.
- Fill gaps and nail holes after your first or second pass: trowel a compatible filler, let dry, then sand with the next grit to level.
Screen-only (no bare wood)
- Abrade existing finish with a buffer or pole sander using 120–150 screen.
- Vacuum, tack, and proceed to finish coats.
Staining (optional)
- After your final sanding (100–120 grit), vacuum and water-pop if you want more even, deeper color: damp-mop with clean water, let dry fully, then stain.
- Apply stain with a pad or rag, work in manageable sections, wipe off excess within the manufacturer’s window. Maintain a wet edge to avoid lap marks.
Finish coats
- Cut in edges with a brush, then roll or T-bar the field. Work with the grain.
- Typical schedule:
- Waterborne poly: 3 coats; abrade between coats with 150 screen after the first two coats.
- Oil-based poly: 2–3 coats; longer dry times, usually one coat per day.
Coverage and timing (typical):
- Stain: 200–400 sq ft/gal
- Waterborne poly: 350–500 sq ft/gal; recoat 2–4 hrs
- Oil-based poly: 400–500 sq ft/gal; recoat 8–24 hrs
- Light foot traffic: 24 hrs (waterborne), 48 hrs (oil)
- Rugs/furniture: 7 days (water), 10–14 days (oil) for full cure
Safety
- Wear hearing protection and a P100 dust respirator during sanding; safety glasses at all times.
- Ventilate well, especially with oil-based products. No open flames or pilot lights.
- Handle oily rags properly—spread to dry outdoors or store submerged in a metal container with water and a tight lid to prevent spontaneous combustion.
- Lifting caution: floor machines are heavy; get help for stairs.
Tips for best results
- Test your process in a closet: grit progression, stain color, and finish sheen.
- Always vacuum and wipe down between steps; dust is the enemy of a smooth finish.
- Maintain a wet edge with stain and finish; plan your exit so you don’t paint yourself into a corner.
- Consider a sealer coat (e.g., waterborne sealer) to minimize grain raise and improve adhesion.
- Choose sheen wisely: satin hides imperfections, gloss highlights them.
Common mistakes to avoid
- Skipping grits or jumping too far (e.g., 36 to 100) leaves visible scratches.
- Staying still with the sander—this causes divots. Keep it moving.
- Not blending edges with the main field sanding.
- Contamination under finish: silicone, wax, or dust can cause fisheyes and adhesion failure.
- Overworking waterborne finishes—they set quickly. Lay it down and leave it.
Cost and time
- Rentals: $60–$100/day for floor sander; $40–$60/day for edger.
- Abrasives and screens: $100–$250 depending on area and grits.
- Stain and finish: $50–$120 per gallon; most rooms need 1–2 gallons per product.
- Total DIY cost: roughly $2–$4 per sq ft. Pro refinishing often runs $4–$8+ per sq ft.
- Time: 200–400 sq ft typically takes 2–4 days including drying.
When to call a professional
- Severe cupping/crowning, loose boards, or structural issues.
- Parquet or patterned floors (easy to dish out with DIY gear).
- Engineered floors with thin veneer (<2 mm).
- Heavy pet stains/black iron stains you want bleached and color-matched.
- You need dustless sanding, custom stains, or hardwax oil/acid-cured finishes.
With careful prep, patience, and the right tools, a DIY refinish can transform a tired floor into a durable, beautiful surface that lasts for years.