How do I fix a door that won’t close properly?

If a door won’t close properly, start with the simplest fixes: tighten hinge screws (especially the top hinge), replace any loose or stripped screws with longer ones to pull the door back into alignment, shim hinges if needed, and adjust the strike plate so the latch lines up. If it’s still binding, lightly plane the sticking edge and reseal it.

Why doors stop closing

Common causes include:
- Loose or stripped hinge screws causing the door to sag.
- Humidity-swollen wood rubbing the jamb or weatherstripping.
- Misaligned strike plate so the latch won’t catch.
- Door stop or weatherstripping set too tight.
- Worn latch/knob that doesn’t retract smoothly.

Tools and materials

• Screwdrivers or drill/driver with #2 Phillips bit
• 3" wood screws (#9 or #10), hinge-size matched
• Self-centering hinge bit (Vix bit) and small pilot bit
• Wood shims, playing cards, or hinge shims
• Utility knife, sharp chisel, and hammer
• Torpedo level, combination square, pencil, masking tape
• Block plane or hand plane, sanding block (80–120 grit)
• File/rat-tail file (for strike plate), multi-tool (optional)
• Wood glue + toothpicks/dowels (for stripped holes)
• Paint/varnish or sealer for planed edges
• Lubricant (dry Teflon/graphite) for latch

Time: 10–60 minutes for most fixes. Cost: $5–$30 in fasteners and shims; $20–$50 if you need a plane; $4–$10 for a new strike plate.

Quick specs to keep in mind

Clearance (reveal): ~1/8" around the door is typical
Long screws: #9–#10 x 3" into the framing behind the jamb
Material removal when planing: 1/32"–1/16" at a time

Step-by-step: start with the easy wins

1) Diagnose the misalignment

• Close the door slowly and watch where it rubs or where the latch misses the strike.
• Look at the gap (reveal) around the door. A larger gap at the top latch side + tight at the top hinge side usually means sagging from the top hinge.
• Use masking tape on the strike plate; close the door so the latch marks the tape—this shows if the latch is hitting high/low.

2) Tighten and replace hinge screws

• With the door open, snug all hinge screws on the jamb and the door leaf.
• If any screw spins without tightening, remove it. Pack the hole with wood glue and hardwood toothpicks or a 1/4" dowel; re-drill a pilot hole and reinstall.
• For added strength, replace one screw in the top hinge (jamb side) with a 3" wood screw to bite into the stud. Do the same at other hinges if needed. Don’t overtighten.

3) Shim hinges to realign

• If the door rubs at the top latch side, add a thin shim behind the top hinge (jamb leaf). If it rubs at the bottom latch side, shim the bottom hinge.
• Use a playing card, cardstock, or purpose-made hinge shim behind the hinge leaf on the jamb. Score paint with a utility knife, back out hinge screws, insert shim, and retighten.
• Check fit. One or two cards’ thickness often makes a huge difference.

4) Adjust the strike plate

• If the latch hits high/low or doesn’t fully engage, loosen the strike screws. Shift the plate slightly to align with the latch mark and retighten.
• For a small adjustment, file the strike plate opening to elongate in the needed direction.
• For larger moves, remove the plate, chisel the mortise slightly, relocate, and fill any exposed old screw holes with wood and glue before re-screwing.

5) Address sticking edges (swelling/rubbing)

• Lightly pencil the door edge, close and rub to transfer marks. Plane only the marked high spots.
• Keep the factory bevel on the latch side (slight angle toward the stop). Remove 1/32"–1/16" at a time and test.
• Sand smooth and seal the freshly exposed wood with paint or varnish to prevent future swelling.

6) Check latch and weatherstripping

• Ensure the latch tongue moves freely. Lubricate with dry Teflon/graphite. If sticky or worn, replacing a knob/latch set is quick and inexpensive ($15–$40).
• If the door closes but needs a shove, the weatherstripping or door stop may be too tight. Carefully pry and reset the stop 1/16" back, or replace compressed weatherstrip.

Safety

• Wear eye protection when drilling, chiseling, or planing; a dust mask when sanding.
• If your home predates 1978, avoid dry sanding paint without testing for lead; use safe removal methods or call a pro.
• Support the door if removing hinge pins to avoid finger pinches and finish damage.

Tips for best results

• Use a self-centering (Vix) bit for perfectly centered hinge screw holes.
• Pre-drill pilot holes for 3" screws to avoid splitting the jamb.
• Mark and bag hinge leaves and pins so they go back to the same positions.
• Don’t move the strike plate until you’ve corrected hinge sag—it’s a common misstep.
• Always reseal planed edges to keep moisture out.

Common mistakes to avoid

• Relying on short, soft screws in hinges—use at least one 3" screw per hinge into framing.
• Removing too much material when planing. Go slow and test often.
• Ignoring the bevel on the latch side; a square edge can bind.
• Over-loosening the door stop, which can cause rattling.

When to call a professional

• The door or jamb is visibly warped, rotted, or cracked.
• The wall/frame is significantly out of plumb, requiring reframing or re-hanging.
• You have a metal or fire-rated door where modifications are restricted.
• After hinge and strike adjustments, the door still won’t close smoothly.

Most doors that won’t close can be corrected in under an hour with basic tools. Start with fasteners and hinges, then fine-tune the strike plate and edges. Work methodically, test often, and you’ll get a smooth, satisfying close without slamming.